Talking about making things lighter...
You could also take weight off the fly wheel.
It doesnt create more power, but does free up power used to turn the fly wheel to turn the wheels. You also get quicker reving and faster acceleration.
Good to hear from you Shane. I mounted my standard E16 flywheel up in the brake lathe at work years ago and shaved about 4 lbs. off of the back of it then. I had it rebalanced afterwards and have had zero problems ever since. Nice upgrade!
My temp. guage went faulty due to a bad instrument voltage regulator.
Temp went up, thought it was the regulator acting up, but it was a real overheat.
cracked my no.1 cylinder wall.
busy with complete rebuild now.
Guess I should be happy that its a chance for more playing around huh?
Nice mod list for E engine. I'm interested in built a high comp E16, my question: Any piston available for 11.0:1 maybe 12.0:1? How much RPM's support the std. OEM E16 Rod? Safe line, Maybe 8,500 - or more with ARP bolts?
Nice mod list for E engine. I'm interested in built a high comp E16, my question: Any piston available for 11.0:1 maybe 12.0:1? How much RPM's support the std. OEM E16 Rod? Safe line, Maybe 8,500 - or more with ARP bolts?
The E16 rods are the shortest in the series...
137.5mm
With the stroke length of the E16, 88mm, you get a rod/stroke ratio of 1.56:1.
This is not healthy for high rpm in my opinion.
Personally I would fit the E13 rods of 146.5mm, and deck the block to compensate.
The E13 rods give a ratio of 1.66:1, which is better for high rpm.
And the deck plate can be used to up your compression as well.
Even better would be the E10 rods of 152mm, with a ratio of 1.72:1, closer to the prefered 1.75:1 ratio for street applications.
Fit some cams to match the longer tdc's, you get better filling of the cylinders, more torque, and one potent high reving motor.
Not to mention flowing the head and free flow...
My plan in other project is use E16 rods with modified datsun a14 pistons in a GA16DE block for high rev 8.5k, .... i'm confused again with High comp E (My brother project) and my other project high comp GA...
My plan in other project is use E16 rods with modified datsun a14 pistons in a GA16DE block for high rev 8.5k, .... i'm confused again with High comp E (My brother project) and my other project high comp GA...
I dont have the specs for those parts at the moment.
But the idea or accepted norm is that for reliability at high rpm, dont go less than 1,75:1 rod stroke ratio.
just as an example, F1 and superbike engines use ratios of greater than 2, and you hear how those motors rev!
Providing you keep with this, balance all rotating masses, and make sure your oil flow/pressure is good, whatever you put together should give you the 8500rpm you want, reliabily.
The cams need to provide the breathing for this to work as well.
I dont have the specs for those parts at the moment.
But the idea or accepted norm is that for reliability at high rpm, dont go less than 1,75:1 rod stroke ratio.
just as an example, F1 and superbike engines use ratios of greater than 2, and you hear how those motors rev!
Providing you keep with this, balance all rotating masses, and make sure your oil flow/pressure is good, whatever you put together should give you the 8500rpm you want, reliabily.
The cams need to provide the breathing for this to work as well.
Ok! Anyway my setup is acceptable for rev 8,500 rpm's and not have any problems with rods and pistons? In the GA case the GA stock rods not support 8,500 rpm's . I need custom rod bolts? ARP available or OEM is the best option?
Thanks again!
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Last edited by alfsentra : Feb 5th, 2009 at 05:26 PM.
Well Im busy with installing the E15 crank in my E13 block!
Ran into some problems.
The specs listed for the conrods of 146.5mm on the posts here are incorrect for the E13 motor.
Its actually measured 122mm, with a rod/stroke ratio of 1.74 for the stroke of 70mm.
The E15 crank does not fit the block in stock form.
The counterweights on the crank are bigger than the E13 crank, and so need to be trimmed to rotate freely.
I know the E13 is not for US market but just check and be carefull the same does not apply for fitting E16 cranks into E15 blocks.
That's good info Shane, thanks for the update. I'm here but I haven't had any occasion to do anything E series related in quite some time. My E16 has been absolutely reliable this winter no matter how hard I've raced it. I road race it on the frozen lakes up here in NY and my B11 Sentra finished second in the points championship - and I missed two events! Needless to say when it was running it finished 1st every time except for once, and that was a close second. It's competition cosists mainly of VW Golfs, an Integra and a couple of turbo Saab 900's.
As we all know by now, it is not possible to edit old posts on these forums. That's very disappointing, but there it is. So I wanted to repost a few pics that got lost many pages ago on this thread. Back on page 3 of this thread [post 35 to be exact] here some pics that were lost years ago. I've also reposted the captions as they appeared on that post.
This series of pictures, shows the modified '83 intake, opened up with a die grinder, to accept an '85 Nissan [720] Pickup truck carb, from a Z24 engine.
You can see how much bigger the Z24 carb is, compared to the standard E16's. The orange baseplate gasket is from the Z24. The mounting holes were close enough, to oval out, to fit the E16's carb studs.
Here it is on my feshly rebuilt [back in '95] .5mm over E16 engine.
Of course in racing you always crave more power. So I figured the stock intake might be holding me back. [This was before I bought the twin side drafts for the race car which are by far the best for power]. The idea was to make a manifold that had four individual runners from the plenum. If you look at the stock E-series intake you will see that each pair of cylinders draws from a single runner off of the plenum. So I searched different manifold catalogs looking for something that had similar intake port spacing to the E16. I found that the old Pinto 1.6 manifolds were really close. So I sourced an early Pinto intake and sawed off the Ford flange. I then traced an E16 intake gasket and machined out an aluminum flange. I then heli-arced it all together and ended up with this custom E16 manifold.
How did this manifold work out? Not very well to be honest. It was an experiment that failed to make any more power. It turned exactly the same speed [at the drags] as with the stock intake. I think that the intake runner length was likely too short, but that's just a guess.
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. I need custom rod bolts? ARP available or OEM is the best option? 
It's competition cosists mainly of VW Golfs, an Integra and a couple of turbo Saab 900's.
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