Unfortunately, nothing has happened since my last post.
Running a business around year end leaves no time for personal life or anything else!
Im still running strong with the mods I last updated you guys with.
I did however manage to build myself a little exhaust flame kit to scare the hell out of drivers behind me or next to me.
It works by igniting unburned fuel that gets pushed out the exhaust.
Gives a nice 2 to 3 foot jet-like flame.
Im hoping to continue with the mods after Christmas.
Damn, I would love to get my hands on the Sentra 18mm vented rotors, and AD20V calipars for my E16S Pulsar, but the Diesel Sentras cannot be found were I live.
Does Nissan Motorsport still sell the Euro spec cam? Help?
Glad to say Im able to get back to playing around with my motor!
Took it for a wild run the other day and broke my right side control arm front mounting.
Drive shaft popped out and I was stuck not far from home.
Luckily my brother helped tow it home and I managed to get it welded for R300.
Now Im thinking twice about doing any more power upgrades to the car as Im worried the suspension wont hold.
Im trying to get a lower strut brace for it but cant seem to find any locally.
Has anyone made up a strut brace for this chassis?
Hey all!
Took it for a wild run the other day and broke my right side control arm front mounting. Drive shaft popped out and I was stuck not far from home.
Luckily my brother helped tow it home and I managed to get it welded for R300.
Now Im thinking twice about doing any more power upgrades to the car as Im worried the suspension wont hold. Im trying to get a lower strut brace for it but cant seem to find any locally.
Has anyone made up a strut brace for this chassis?
Shane, sorry to hear about the suspension. I'd like to ask you a few questions about it and discuss it more, so I have replied to it in another thread that you started in the B11/B12/KN13 82-90 chassis chassis section, so we can keep this one on topic regarding E-series engine modifications. That thread is HERE.
I found something what also reduces weight on the engine: the camshaft pulley.
The one I got on the E16I has 8 big holes and weights 500 gramms the pulley for the E16S with 4 tiny holes only weights 300gramms, so 200gramms lighter, it's not much but in addition with other mods...the lighter the better.
Lighter is definately better. I've only seen two types of cam and jackshaft pulleys on the E-series. One set is the heavier cast type and the other I have only seen on the E15ET engines and those are very light stamped steel units that have a gold tint to them. They don't have any holes in them [other than for the screws].
Just saw the post about the light cam pulley...
I thought the E13 and E16 came standard with these pullies?
Talking about making things lighter...
You could also take weight off the fly wheel.
It doesnt create more power, but does free up power used to turn the fly wheel to turn the wheels.
You also get quicker reving and faster acceleration, but...
It comes with a price.
You lose kinetic energy stored in the weight of the fly wheel used for easy take off and long uphill climbs.
But if you have enough torque its a great improvement!
Can I replace this TBI unit with a carb?... what manifold will ne necessary?.. and can i use the earlier electronic distributor so i can bury the ECU as well.
Car is an 88 sentra sedan. E-16i, I use in SCCA ITC road racing...
Okay, going WAAAAYYY out on a limb here, but those lighter weight, stamped sheetmetal cam pulleys look IDENTICAL to the cam pulleys on my subaru GL-10, engine code EA82, 1800 SOHC, 1986-94.. Found in GL/DL from 86 to 90, XT, and Loyale models. Internationally it was commonly known as a leone.
Obviously I couldn't be certain without comparing them side by side, but I know that my soobie shares lots of parts with nissans, and my nissans share lots of parts with soobies... Tooth count/diameter? The Subaru is getting hauled off in a few days so the sooner I get that from you guys the shooner I can let you know... I will try to check them out as much as I can and mic the distance between bolt holes and stopper holes, etc, but no promises.
In case you weren't aware, those four tiny holes are there to set up a factory technician's wrench that basically looks like a bar with two pegs in it. This wrench holds the pulley in place for torquing and removing the cam pulley bolts.
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