How big is the pipe coming of the header on a 1989 Nissan Pulsar... I don't have my car yet and im puttin a new custom exhauston there and i need 2 know what size pipe i need 2 get... so if u would it would be greatly appriciated...
How big is the pipe coming of the header on a 1989 Nissan Pulsar... I don't have my car yet and im puttin a new custom exhauston there and i need 2 know what size pipe i need 2 get... so if u would it would be greatly appriciated...
Ben D
Hello Ben and welcome to the boards.
You might try posting this question in a new thread. This thread is an informational for the E-series engine.
5) ENGINE NOTES: my engine was an MPG model... higher compression, semi-hemispherical head, and pistons like the E15T... as well as the 2-way caty-converter...
Laz,
What do you mean by "pistons like the E15T"? Do the tops look like this?
Well I ran out of time and could not locate a set of the 13M22 pistons or any E15 standard pistons for my E16. So I got out a used set of A15 pistons which share the same bore size of 76 mm. These are actually a good chioce because they are essentially flat tops and make lots of compression in an E16, especially with the 15M head like I am using.
I had to hand ground the valve reliefs to clear the big valve E16 15M cylinder head myself. Sometimes you do what you've got to do. I pressed all of the A15 pistons off of the A15 rods and installed them onto the E16 rods.
Here the A15 pistons are ready to have the E16 rods installed onto them.
I pressed the first of the four assemblies together in a hydraulic press and had a difficult time. For the other three, I decided to do it the way I was taught in Nissan school 15 years ago. Heat the rods up in cooking oil......
.... and put the pins on ice in the freezer. Then you can simply press them together with two fingers by hand! It worked great.
Here they are right before I lowered the cylinder head in place.
Here it is all together on Saturday.
And here's a picture from Sunday where I am leading this four car Euro-Rallycross race, seen here going over the jump at the Glad Rag Speedway in Corinth, New York.
Mike, that is super bad-ass. How much compression do you think you get with those pistons? I didn't even know that was an option.
Daniel,
I didn't bother to figure the exact compression ratio. I used this logic: The 13 to 1 Cosworth pistons I was using looked like this:
They were .035" oversize and the intake valve side was simply angle milled all the way across the piston crown. Compare them to the standard A15 pistons with my hand ground valve reliefs:
I think my new combination is about the same or maybe even a bit higher, as I didn't angle mill the intake side flat all the way across the crown like Cosworth did. It could be as high as 13.5 to 1 right now. It doesn't matter to me, as I run leaded racing gasoline regardless. Remember that this is with the 15M head. With a 33M head it would be much less but still a bit on the high side for pump gas. I'm guessing maybe 10.5 to 1? Also: with the 33M head, you wouldn't need to grind the valve reliefs into the A15 pistons like I did. Just put them in as is, but forget about running it on regular after that.
Hi guys!
Im new to nissan forums but have been modifying my 1992 Nissan Sentra 1300 ( E13S )
for many years now!
Im not sure if its a B11 but here in South Africa we refer to it as a "box shape"!
Im a guy that likes to do things myself so Ive personally done all the mods.
First thing I did was to gassflow and port match the cylinder head.
The biggest obstruction to airflow I found was the valve guides which protruded into to ports, so I ground these flush to the port walls.
The engine was remaining normally aspirated so I concentrated on a "low volume high velocity" approach to optimise the scavaging effect.
The ports have a bit of ridge formed where the upper and lower halfs of the head come together so that got smoothened out.
I decided to leave the walls a bit rough to create a bit of turbulance so that the air and fuel mixed well as it flowed.
Eventually the ports where looking nice and clear of obstructions, I began with the port matching.
Here I used the respective gaskets to mark where the port sizes could do with some resizing to match the intake manifold perfectly.
Both the head and manifold need matching so that they mate perfectly when put together.
I left the exhaust ports untouched as Ive read that its better to have exhaust gasses flow from narrow to wide spaces to minimise shockwaves echoeing back off surfaces. ?????
To cut this long story short, standard cams, 30 thou rebore, 5 angle valve grind, 0.5mm skimmed off the head, copper head gasket, and a 4 into 2 into 1 Wildcat branch and exhaust gave me 74kw!
A serious 74 kw at the wheels froma 1300 motor, gave even a Golf VR6 a hiding top end!
Im continuing to see what other improvements can be done!
Thanks for telling us about your E13S. Sounds like you have a B12 Sentra model and are quite knowledgeable about airflow and proper porting techniques. It's really nice to see that!
For those out there who aren't familiar with how kW numbers translate into horsepower, I did the conversion. 74 kW equals 101.38 hp! That's a really good number from a 1300 cc engine. Our E16S was rated at 69 h.p. from the factory. The E16i was rated at only one more.
Shane, what are you using for carburetion? Surely not the stock carb right? Are you running a header too?
Where did you get a copper head gasket? Is it solid copper or does it just have the copper rings around each cylinder? Any pics of your engine or car?
Thanks for telling us about your E13S. Sounds like you have a B12 Sentra model and are quite knowledgeable about airflow and proper porting techniques. It's really nice to see that!
For those out there who aren't familiar with how kW numbers translate into horsepower, I did the conversion. 74 kW equals 101.38 hp! That's a really good number from a 1300 cc engine. Our E16S was rated at 69 h.p. from the factory. The E16i was rated at only one more.
Shane, what are you using for carburetion? Surely not the stock carb right? Are you running a header too?
Where did you get a copper head gasket? Is it solid copper or does it just have the copper rings around each cylinder? Any pics of your engine or car?
Cheers,
Mike
Hi Mike!
Thanks for the warm welcome!
I did some research and found that I do have the b12 Sentra in the "faced lifted" sedan shape.
In response to your questions....
Im using the origional carb which is a Nikki twin barrel downdraft, 217260-88, but with modifications.
The moldings of the carb has faults in the venturies.
Where the two halfs of the carb come together, the bottom face of the venturi has portions that stick out.
Ive ground these down as to smoothen out the shape so that the air flows better.
Then the venturis were widened to de-restrict flow, with custom made butterflies to fit.
Rejetting was done two sizes up on the primary and three up on the secondary to compensate for the loss in vacuum due to the widening of the venturies.
On the intake runners, nothing else other than the port matching was done.
The copper head gasket is a sheet if copper of required thickness thats laser cut to and origional gasket template.
Ill get more info on it and get back.
Well done Shane! It's a pleasure to have someone new on the boards who's so talented in building and tuning the E-series engines. Did you apply any type of sealer to the head gasket when you put the head on? If so what kind? I was thinking that perhaps there might be some slight coolant leaks without any.
Here in South Africa we arent as lucky to have off the shelf performance parts for the E series.
So I was forced to get them made which was a bit costly.
The reason I had to fit a copper gasket was because the origional Payen Gaskets could not hold up with the high compression of 11.5:1 Im running.
If you look at the bores on the block, you would see that the spacings between cylinders 1 and 2, and cylinders 3 and 4, are lesser than cylinders 2 and 3.
At these narrow spacings is where the gasket blew, everytime, either from cylinder to cylinder, or from cylinder to water journal or oil journal.
I unfortunately learned the hard way after blowing four gaskets in 2 years that all the turboed motors are using them as they are much stronger.
The gasket Im now using was cut from a 0.75mm thickness of solid copper, which when compressed during fitting, would measure 0.5mm in thickness.
Copper is harder than aluminium and the origional gasket material. but soft enough to be compressed and mold into small spaces to form a seal.
There was no sealant used but I did use an aerosal copper spray which i was told, would help with the copper molding to the surfaces to form a seal.
Im happy to say it was a successfull first attempt with no leaks of any kind!
Exhaust
Linear Mode
