I have a crankcase evacuation system on my E16. They are commonly used on racecar engines, and that's where I got the idea. I'm pretty sure you can get a kit to install your own from Summit or Jegs. I pieced mine together myself. They are reputed to save some HP by decreasing the amount of windage [slung oil] from creating a parasitic drag on the crank counterweights. Basically, it consists of a 3/4" diameter threaded steel pipe fitting that gets welded into the header collector at a 45 deg. angle. Onto that threads a one way check valve, [I used a junkyard air pump check valve from an old Buick V8]. From the check valve, you'll slip on a length of 5/8th's heater hose that leads up to the [larger of the two] breather fittings on the valve cover. Plug the other fitting, so you seal the crankcase. The system works like this: when the engine is running, the exhaust gasses flowing through the header collector pass this 3/4" orifice [in the welded fittingin the header collector], and a vacuum is created. You are using this vacuum to "suck" the crankcase vapors out of your crankcase, thus the term "crankcase evacuation". This is something that would not pass a smog emmisions test with, if you live in an area where tailpipe emissions are checked. It's intended for race cars.
This picture isn't the best to show this system, but you can see the black 5/8ths heater hose coming off of the valve cover on its way down to the fitting on the header collector.
Originally posted by RockyB Hey that info is great. I'm actually talking to my machine shop I choosen to get my block cleaned and he said he would be able to o-ring my block. Hey Blown on the jackshaft would it be hard to change the bearings?? The machine shop told me he might not be able to get the bearings of that size and doesn't know (if he could get the bearings) would be able to press them out and the new ones in.
get a brand new block from OEM Surplus on eBay...
link to follow....
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's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
hi guys, i thought i might post up some specs of my motor, its an Aussie Spec E15ET and is making close 175hp but im not sure on torque figures but its a fair whack i'd say....heres some of my engine mods
Decked and Honed Block 25thou
Chemically Cleaned
Blue Printed
25thou oversize ACL Pistons and rings
Nitrated Crank
Crack Tested
Shot Peened and Resized Rods
Index Ground Crank
Shamferred Oil Holes
Fully Balanced
Lightened Flywheel
Exedy Extreme 4 Puck Clutch
Stage 2.5 Cam
Copper Head Gasket
Custom Throttle Body (Not VL)
Port and Polished head
Port and Polished Stock Manifolds In & Ex
New Valves
New ACL Bearings
New ACL raceseries Gaskets
Fully Reco'd Head
3 Angle Seat Grind
Shamferred Oil return galleries in head
Schwitzer 313683 Turbo @ 1 bar
K&N Std Air Box Filter
Malpassi Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Reg.
Custom 3” Dump pipe, 2½ Straight Through,
4” Autotechnica Stainless Muffler
and runs on 115octane race fuel
heres a pic of my motor..
i have heaps of other pics of my car including the engine buildup with pics of each component, pistons etc.
i seen someone asking about a larger T/B for an e16i motor, if the t/b is the same as an E15ET's, in australia we have a VL Holden Commodore (RB30 motor)which has a much larger t/b which can be adapted with ease, heres a pic of the comparison
***** Here are two pics, showing the differences of the two pistons. The first pic shows a stock E16 piston. Notice the wide flat deck ring at the top edge of the piston face. Also in this pic, you can see what kind of a mark the valve will leave in the piston, if the timing belt breaks.
The next picture shows a E15ET piston [which appears to be identicle to the Motorsport "High Performance" piston for the E16]. Notice the larger diameter area of the dish, and the subsequent thinner flat deck area to clear the larger valves.
ok, i have some info on this, but i've only pieced it together from part numbers....
"standard" E16 pistons have no valve reliefs, but they also have the "standard" E16 heads, which have higher valve-to-deck clearance than the turbo heads...
"motorsports" E16 pistons (or, as near as i can tell *E15* pistons, they look *identical*) have valve reliefs, i believe, because of their use on E15s. E15 heads have a similar combustion chamber to the turbo heads (low valve-to-deck clearance) <<<pic to follow>>>
***BOTH E16 and E15 engines used pistons with the same compression height (32.5mm), the difference being the E15 needed smaller combustion chambers and piston dishes to still make reasonable compression with only 93% of the engine displacement of the E16. how did they make this work? they used different rods for each engine, the E16 had 137.5mm con-rods, and the E15 had 140.5mm con-rods.
so from the above, "standard" E16 pistons may not work with either E15 or E15ET heads because of the lower valve-to-deck clearance of these heads, as well as the increased valve diameter of the turbo heads. this will, however, depend on the lift and duration of your camshaft.
E15ETs were entirely different animals. they used the E15 crank, but the E16 con-rods, which yielded an extremely high piston-to-deck clearance. in fact E15ET pistons had a HIGHER compression height (33.5mm) and NO valve reliefs (see photo). how did this work? simple. the piston at TDC is still 2mm down the cylinder, leaving more than enough room for the decreased valve-to-deck clearance. incidentally, i believe E15ET pistons were a little heavier to deal with the increased heat of the turbo.
both the "list of E-series cylinder heads," and the "piston tech" threads have more info on this voodoo.
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's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
Last edited by Lazarus_023 : Dec 1st, 2003 at 02:07 AM.
Are you putting in a B11 cluster w/tach? If so there is no need to change speedo gears. You would only need to change the pinion gear if you were using a speedo from another car with a different ratio. If you swap in a cluster w/tach from another B11 you will have to wire up the tach, the rest should be pretty simple.
Hey guys,
Wow this thread seems to be getting really watered down. It used to be for documenting hard core and accurate E16 engine info. I thought we were going to post newbie questions and the like on a new thread and not let this sticky get cluttered up. How can anyone find any good tech details if they have to wade through 7 or more pages of posts?
Oh, well anyway sorry guys..........I forget to say hello!
[quote=RiceBox]This should make your life easier blownb310. I'm going to sticky this for a few weeks.
And if your crank angle sensor, [a.k.a. distributor] craps out, you can use the regular electronic ignition distributor assy. from an '82 or '83 B11/N12, and ditch the ECU completely. Then you can set the timing where you want it, and not have the ECU constantly changing the timing on you. Are we having fun yet?
How do I install this distributor , on my 86 sentra? Do I need to change any of the wires?
hi guys, i thought i might post up some specs of my motor, its an Aussie Spec E15ET and is making close 175hp but im not sure on torque figures but its a fair whack i'd say....
I seen someone asking about a larger T/B for an e16i motor, if the t/b is the same as an E15ET's, in australia we have a VL Holden Commodore (RB30 motor)which has a much larger t/b which can be adapted with ease, heres a pic of the comparison
Thanks for checking in Shane! Nice E15ET you'vr got there! Thanks for the details. The picture has disappeared. Can you repost it? I'd love to see it. I just reposted all of my pictures on this thread. Whew, that took some doing!
The E16i throttle body here in the US are different than the E15ET throttle body. Ours have a single injector right in the tbi. So the Holden one won't work for us. Thanks for that though!
Does anyone have preformance tgips for a nissan exa?
hi i have a nissan exe with a reconed E15 enigine in it with a EXA Turbo gearbox + clutch and it feels like the car is lacking some power. Does anyone have any hints to boost the power a little?
hi i have a nissan exe with a reconed E15 enigine in it with a EXA Turbo gearbox + clutch and it feels like the car is lacking some power. Does anyone have any hints to boost the power a little?
Hello blackmamba, and welcome to the boards! I don't have any idea why your car might be lacking power, but I think it might be better if you start a new thread to ask some of the forum members here. This sticky is for documenting performance enhancements of the E-series engine.
Just click on the "New Thread" box on the upper left corner of the E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines and give it a go!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wintercar
Nice creativity,
I am suprised however that you did not make your own Bushings out of Delrin. I guess I am the only cheap one around here...
Wintercar, who are you talking to about this? I don't get it. I think the majority of us here are cheap.
I don't want to HJ the thread but here's the short on Delrin:
It's used in racing to make bushings for cars, Similar to polyurethane bushings(google search will provide much info). Funny thing is, It is also used in some cutting boards(food type). I have been very successful making my own bushings. I sometimes have found these boards @ the dollar store, and with my hole saw of correct size(you can use cheap ones from HF!) I can make a bushing in under a minute. Then just enlarge the size of the inner hole to the correct size.
I don't want to HJ the thread but here's the short on Delrin:
It's used in racing to make bushings for cars, Similar to polyurethane bushings(google search will provide much info). Funny thing is, It is also used in some cutting boards(food type). I have been very successful making my own bushings. I sometimes have found these boards @ the dollar store, and with my hole saw of correct size(you can use cheap ones from HF!) I can make a bushing in under a minute. Then just enlarge the size of the inner hole to the correct size.
How's that for cheap?
That's cheaper than my urethane bushings I made for the rear control arms in my B11. I started with Energy Suspension's 5.0 liter Mustang rear control arm set and machined them down on my Dad's lathe. They are excellent for the pavement, but way too harsh for rallying, where they caused my rear subframe to crack. I welded it back up and reverted to urethane filled stockers for the rough stuff.
Thanks for the details. The picture has disappeared. Can you repost it? I'd love to see it. I just reposted all of my pictures on this thread. Whew, that took some doing! 
I think the majority of us here are cheap. 
Linear Mode
