Originally posted by malaysia_boy how to raise to such a high compression ratio?
any parts need to be upgraded?
***** I upgraded my E16 with custom forged pistons. You would not want to do this if you drive your car everyday on the street. You will need to use racing gasoline that is about $6.00 a gallon here. It is for race cars only.
Originally posted by malaysia_boy wow! thanks for the advice man....
by the way, any idea on the stock E16 gasket thickness?
if i change to .030 or .060 thickness gasket, how will the compression ration be?
***** I am not aware that different gasket thicknesses are offered by anyone. Besides, if you changed to a thicker or thinner gasket, you'd also be changing the effective length of the timing belt, and therefore advancing or retarding the cam too. Compression changes should be done with alternate pistons.
Before you put the valve seal in the head... put the spring seat !!!... you dont wanna know how i came to this fact... but it is true, you wont be able to put them on afterward...
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Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
ok... there is a LOT of good info in this thread...
as opposed to reading the entire thing (i'm LaZ)... i'm gonna tell you what i did with my '83 B11...
ENGINE (E15):
1) plugged all the emissions crap on the intake (egr, etc.) the EGR can be drilled and tapped for pipe plugs, or you can drill it out and epoxy copper pipe caps in place. i also eliminated the fuel preheater thingy between the carb and manifold.
2) installed the carb off'n a 1980 datsun 210 w/ A14 (BOLT for BOLT!) this eliminates all the ECC crap, although the fuel cut-off solenoid is still there (attach to "on" position of ignition system...). NOTE: with a little effort (that i didn't want to expend, i'm LaZ) you can adapt an older datsun 510 (i think) carb to an E16 manifold... the main issue is the throttle linkage)
3) used the stock exhaust manifold (i had the earlier 2-way catalytic converter, not the manifold-mounted 3-way cat...) with the egr ports plugged.
4) used the stock front downpipe connector, but REMOVED the stock down-pipe (1" dia, i think) from the inside of the connector and replaced it with something that fit nicely over the OUTSIDE of the connector (1-1/2" i think...) the rest of the exhaust was custom bent, w/ a baffled muffler from a small john deere tractor (this was a little raspy... not like a fart-pipe... i mean RASPY.)
5) ENGINE NOTES: my engine was an MPG model... higher compression, semi-hemispherical head, and pistons like the E15T... as well as the 2-way caty-converter...
TRANSMISSION:
heh. got lucky on this one... find a 1982 datsun 310 5-spd w/ an E-series engine. get the gearbox. what do you think of a 4.01 1st gear w/ a 4.52 final drive? well, you'd better like it. not a damn thing in the world easier to launch... rev to 6000, sidestep the clutch, and the engine'll spin till the car catches up... not too long of a wait, in an 1800 lb car.... you will probably never run out of top end either, with a NA E-series...
SUSPENSION:
1) Front (ONLY WORKS FOR MANUAL TRANS...): go to the local parts store. get the heaviest-dutiest coils and struts you can get for a B11 sentra WITH AUTO TRANS AND A/C (auto trans and a/c were good for over 100 pounds on a B11, and the springs were made to reflect that). you will have to clip somewhere between 1 and 2 coils off the short end of the spring (the end of the spring where the coils are closer together), depending on the manufacturer... it may take a few tries of install-remove-clip-reinstall, so suit your tastes on this, but don't take it too far, as the stock struts can't handle too large of a drop (i'd say about 1" below stock, max...)
2) Rear (Only works well with B11 sedans, works OK for B11 coupes...): Go to the local parts store. get the heaviest-dutiest coils and shox you can get for a B11 sentra STATION WAGON (Station wagon was good for 150-200 lbs on a B11). you will have to do some more clipping to get your ride-height right... try to lower the rear a little less than the front... this will actually help your downforce at speed... (at about 70 mph you'll feel the effect...)
3) Swaybars: Nissan Motorsports all the way.... get a NISMO catalog, order the swaybar kit front and rear... it doesn't get much better than an 1-1/8" front and a 7/8" rear bar...
4) SUSPENSION NOTES:
a) "clipping" springs is a misnomer... it's actually best done with an angle grinder or metal cut-off saw. a cutting torch may be used, but you must be VERY careful to not over-heat the spring and ruin the temper, or the spring will break later...
b) This will ride rough... WAY ROUGH. Make sure you're sure about doing this... it'll seriously detract from the ride quality and cause unbelieveable squeaks and rattles in the interior...
c) you can NOT lower the ride height much more than 1" MAX with the "stock replacement" struts and shox... they will bottom out and beat you and your car to death.
d) If the free height of the rear springs is significantly lower than the stock springs, you will have to attach them to the spring towers and control arms. Cable clamps work well for this... If you don't know about this PLEASE ASK... you will look silly if your springs fall out (and they will...).
TO BE CONTINUED...
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's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
Last edited by Lazarus_023 : Jun 9th, 2003 at 01:15 AM.
BRAKES:
i used stock brakes (solid rotors front, and 7" drums rear) with quality semi-metallic pads... they will be OK for MOST daily driving and lighter racing (i manage to overheat them a couple of times on some pretty wicked banzai runs....) for heavy duty use, i would recommend upgrading to high temp pads/shoes AT THE LEAST... for serious racing i would recommend the NISMO vented disc fronts with the 8" rear drums...
BRAKE NOTES: If anyone knows what the B11 vented fronts from NISMO are from (i'm sure they're off of a production vehicle...), please post... i'm sure you could save us a lot of money...
WEIGHT REDUCTION:
pretty simple on mine...
1) remove the trunk-dressing crap (carpet, wood floor, etc... if you drive on the street, i would recommend leaving the spare and jack...).
2) remove the trunk and hood "cross bracing" and hood hinges. four hood pins will hold the hood down nicely. the interior is largely useless.... remove it. you shouldn't have much trouble gutting a B11 down to 1600 lbs if you're serious about it... otherwise, leave it alone. at 1936 lbs, wet, it's already pretty damn light.
3) use front bumper and bumper supports from later (85-86) B11... they get rid of the large plastic cover and heavy/bulky shock absorbers... (i never bothered to weigh the newer composite headlight system (late '84-'86) vs. the older sealed-beam setup ('82-early '84) to see which is lighter, although i have both... if anyone is REALLY interested, lemmee kno, and i might check for ya....)
WHEELS/TIRES:
LOTS OF OPTIONS... you can all thank the ricers for that... oddly enough however (and worth noting...) FWD datsun 310s, B11 sentras, and N12 pulsars all use wheels with RWD offsets!! make sure your offset is similar, or your steering effort wil become silly-hard...
-I personally like the unbelievable lightness of the stock steel wheels. they are feather-weights compared to most aluminum wheels. HOWEVER, they are pretty flimsy, and if you race, and you are not limited to stock diameter wheels in your racing class, i recommend upgrading. (incidentally, if you are looking to "restore" your stock wheels, Testor's (yeah, the model paint...) MIST GREY METALLIC is a nearly identical match for the original...)
for "racing" i used the 14" aluminum wheels off of a '78 dodge challenger (not an american car, really, imported for chrysler...), they are MAD strong, although heavy (i've been through a couple of wrecks that destroyed suspension components and the wheels were totally unharmed...)
NOTE: The ultra-light 14" wheels off of a B12 sentra coupe, although formidable, DO NOT have the right bolt pattern to fit a B11...
If any one needs amy more info on budget B11s, feel free to ask...
peace out,
LaZ
__________________
's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
Last edited by Lazarus_023 : Jun 9th, 2003 at 01:16 AM.
Originally posted by Lazarus_023 ok... there is a LOT of good info in this thread...
as opposed to reading the entire thing (i'm LaZ)... i'm gonna tell you what i did with my '83 B11...
2) installed the carb off'n a 1980 datsun 210 w/ A14 (BOLT for BOLT!) this eliminates all the ECC crap, although the fuel cut-off solenoid is still there (attach to "on" position of ignition system...). NOTE: with a little effort (that i didn't want to expend, i'm LaZ) you can adapt an older datsun 510 (i think) carb to an E16 manifold... the main issue is the throttle linkage)
***** Thanks for adding your B11 experience to this thread. I think this kind of in-depth post is of great value to the boards. Interestingly, you and I have gone down a lot of the same roads. The 210 carb swap offers no real H.P. advantage though. The 510 carb surely would. Anything that's slightly bigger than stock will help, as long as you open up the carb flange in the intake to match.
Quote:
Originally posted by Lazarus_023 BRAKE NOTES: If anyone knows what the B11 vented fronts from NISMO are from (i'm sure they're off of a production vehicle...), please post... i'm sure you could save us a lot of money...
As already posted earlier in this thread, they're diesel brakes. They work really well, and still allow the use of 13" wheels.
Martin and I have been PMing each other in regards to O-ringing blocks and I felt the info was useful to all, so I decided to post it here. It started like this:
Quote:
Crazy-Mart wrote on 06-17-2003 12:02 PM: I got my block oringed, in a figure 8 kind of way ... the guy explained to me that the huge copper wires were too big (0.042") to o-ring twice ... so he got around the problem making an 8 around cyl's 1 and 2 and another one around cyl's 3 and 4 ... ill get picture this weekend ... if i can ...
Quote:
blownb310 wrote on 06-18-2003 08:08 AM:
*****That's interesting Martin. I used .042" stainless steel wire in mine, and it fit OK. I'll get out my extra o-ringed E16 today and take some pics.
Quote:
Crazy-Mart wrote on 06-18-2003 11:04 AM: Id really like to see it... the guy just called me saying that my block was too small for his tool (those guys rebuild engines) but he is sending it out to another one that, however charges 225 instead of 150, to have it done. He said his tool wasn't entering the cylinder (probably the guide of it. Is there a big difference between using copper or SS wire for the o-ring ??
Martin
*****Martin,
It does not surprise me that your machinist had difficulty trying to O-ring the little E16 block. My Dad did too at first. His O-ring groove cutting tool had worked beautifully on my Pontiac 455. But that same cutter [for a 4"+ bore] cut too wide in the tighter radius circle of an E16's bore. So he made me a special narrower than normal cutting bit as a flycutter in his milling machine. This is it:
First the block's deck surface gets a cleanup cut. This is to true up the surface and remove all of the pit marks from rust and coolant corrosion. Typically, it only takes about .003" to .005" to clean it up. Then it's time to cut the O-ring grooves. It is important to make sure that you cut the grooves to the right size that they line up with the metal sealing rings in the head gasket you are going to use. You want them to "bite" right into the center of the cyl. sealing rings in your gasket. We cut the groove .036" deep, for a .006" protrusion of the wire. The block looks like this after machining.
This block has not yet gotten the actual .042" stainless steel wire tapped in yet. I need to buy some more. I've got a CA20 block to do too. Fitting the wire into the grooves requires care, as to cut the wire cleanly, leaving no sharp burrs, and to get the length just right, so you get a nice flush fit, without leaving a gap from cutting it too short.
As far as copper vs. stainless steel wire, I can't comment on, as I have only used stainless myself. I like the stainless steel wire because you can remove the head as many times as you want, and the O-rings never need replacing.
Hey, you know, I should be working for Sentra Online Magazine. I could be getting paid to do these articles.
Hey that info is great. I'm actually talking to my machine shop I choosen to get my block cleaned and he said he would be able to o-ring my block. Hey Blown on the jackshaft would it be hard to change the bearings?? The machine shop told me he might not be able to get the bearings of that size and doesn't know (if he could get the bearings) would be able to press them out and the new ones in.
__________________
1987 B12 possible JDM RRC swap - Currently has a blown engine
1991 B13 Se-r - JDM swap - finished 12-7-03
Member since August 2000
Originally posted by RockyB Hey Blown on the jackshaft would it be hard to change the bearings?? The machine shop told me he might not be able to get the bearings of that size and doesn't know (if he could get the bearings) would be able to press them out and the new ones in.
***** I found it difficult [more of a PITA] to replace the jackshaft bushings. It is no different than changing cam bearings [which are really bushings too] on a Chevy. The thing that bugged me is that there was nothing wrong with them to begin with. The only reason I had to replace them is because my machinist's jet-wash machine uses solvent that would eat them. So he'd tap them out of the block beforehand. The bushings themselves have always been available from Nissan.
What I do nowadays, is clean the block myself. It might not be as completely clean as the machine shop can get it, but this works fine for me. I spend lots of time hand brushing every nook and cranny in a Safety Clean solvent tank. I run a tap through all of the threaded holes in the block to clean and check all of the threads. Then I used compressed air to blow out every orifice. Then right before final assy, I take it to the local self car wash and I spray Gunk Foamy Engine-Brite all over the block. Next I use the pressure washer to final flush the block clean. And yes, I am soaked to the bone when I am done doing this. Then I take it home and once again use compressed air to dry the block. And right before I actually put the pistons in the bores. I wipe all of the bores out with clean paper towels sprayed with brake clean.
Location: Car is Richmond, VA but I'm in Orlando, FL
Posts: 450
Another good method for cleaning the block that I found was using the gunk engine brite spray (not foam), letting the motor soak for about 30 min, then wiping away excessive residue, and using a drill-mounted wire wheel to strip the rest. Then you can use methanol to rinse away the excess engine brite and it will intstantly evaporate leaving a clean surface (perfect for prepping to paint).
Originally posted by scoobydoo
What can be done to make the engine more reliable at a 13:1 comp ratio bearing in mind that he plans to use the car everyday.
***** I'm sorry, but 13 to 1 compression is WAY too much for any street car. Even if you O-ringed the block, it would still self destruct the engine from detonation. You simply cannot run that high a compression ratio without leaded racing gasoline of at least 110 octane. I would also believe that the gain from simply raising the CR from stock [9.5 to1] to 13 to 1 would not give great gains by itself. The engine would still be breathing through the little carb or tbi. If you wanted the biggest single improvement in performance, [short of nitrous or forced induction]you'd get twin side draft carbs.
valve seal with nismo inner spring
I think this kind of in-depth post is of great value to the boards. Interestingly, you and I have gone down a lot of the same roads. 
The 210 carb swap offers no real H.P. advantage though. The 510 carb surely would. Anything that's slightly bigger than stock will help, as long as you open up the carb flange in the intake to match.
Fitting the wire into the grooves requires care, as to cut the wire cleanly, leaving no sharp burrs, and to get the length just right, so you get a nice flush fit, without leaving a gap from cutting it too short. 
