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Go Back   NissanForums.com :: Nissan Forum > Nissan Models > Sentra, Pulsar, NX, B14 200SX > E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines
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E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines Engine Discussion: 1982-1990 Sentra/Pulsar

       
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Old Jan 11th, 2003, 01:51 PM   #31 (permalink)
Crazy-Mart
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the adaptator for the E series engine can always be bougth at
TWM induction : http://www.twminduction.com/
the manifold use a 2x DCOE setup.... and they sell injection setup to suit the manifold too !!
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Old Jan 11th, 2003, 04:36 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy-Mart
the adaptator for the E series engine can always be bougth at
TWM induction : http://www.twminduction.com/
the manifold use a 2x DCOE setup.... and they sell injection setup to suit the manifold too !!
Nice to hear from you, Crazy-Mart. What adapter are you referring to? I didn't see any E-series side draft intakes available. Is that what you meant?
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Old Jan 12th, 2003, 11:48 AM   #33 (permalink)
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you got to download the catalog listed in PDF format, thats why you cannot find it in the site, but only in the catalog !! it is called inletmanifold.pdf inside it you got all soryts of nissan adapter and more for other brand but they list and pixs of 1200,e10/13, e15/16 ,ga series, DS20, L16 L18 L20, L6 L24 L28
Carb/TBi adapter ... they also sell DCOE style TBI.... independant TB with each one monted with bosse to take and injector... also they sell fuel rail, custom, untouched by the foot ect... the easy way to get your E serie or older engine (240 or 280z) fuel injected !! sure this thing is a blast to watch but cost a bondle !!
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Old Jan 22nd, 2003, 11:57 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Paeco lists a dual sidedraft manifold in their catalog for the E series. I'm not sure who makes it.
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Old Feb 12th, 2003, 07:58 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Post Poor [or cheap] man's carb upgrade

I have been helping a couple guys out with some carb/intake advice today, and decided to copy some of the info here. One of our members is trying to put a Weber on his '86 E16S, and ran into a snag. The adapter doesn't cover the coolant passage on top of the carb flange. I have never used a Weber, but I'm sure it's a great carb. In any case, I doubt the Weber adapter was intended for use on the electronically carbed E16's. That's why the adapter won't work right on them. Seems to me, that the Weber deal was intended for the '82.5 and '83 regular choke carbed E16's. They don't have the coolant holes on the carb mounting base. That is the intake I have always used, and it is the one shown below. This series of pictures, shows the modified '83 intake, opened up with a die grinder, to accept an '85 Nissan [720] Pickup truck carb, from a Z24 engine.



You can see how much bigger the Z24 carb is, compared to the E16's.


This is the Z24's carb gasket, up against the tiny stock E16 carb.

The orange baseplate gasket is from the Z24. The mounting holes were close enough, to oval out, to fit the E16's carb studs.


Here's how the finished product looks.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2003, 10:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Alright new question.... What (stock) intake would you recommend for the E16i. Just realized Ive got a friend with a tig welder that has made several intakes for Ford Pintos. Thinking of modding an intake to use the Weber 2Bbl. Most dont know this but Chevettes came with a (Holley liscenced Weber). Basically the same as they sell on the aftermarket, but much cheaper. The older ones were completely mechanical and take standard Holley jets. He told me to get the right Nissan intake and a Chevette intake and hed make me one in his spare time. I think you know that this would be for the Pulsar.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2003, 08:27 PM   #37 (permalink)
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As far as I know, there is really only one design downdraft intake for the E-series engine. Early [up to '83] don't have the coolant port under the carb, like the '84-'87's do, but other than that, they all look the same to me. All I can imagine you could do, is cut the intake manifold to head flange off of the stock E16 intake, and adapt it to another better intake [like the 2.0L pinto], or build the rest from scratch. It's going to take some skilled work, but it sounds like you have the right man for the job!
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Old Feb 24th, 2003, 10:08 AM   #38 (permalink)
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As far as the coolant ports - that didn't end up being a big deal. I just tapped the holes and used set screws with an allen key opening and threadlocked them in. Now I'm straightening out the throttle linkage, but that's the last big thing. I won't get back to it until Friday, but it should be running before the end of next weekend.
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Old Mar 10th, 2003, 08:32 PM   #39 (permalink)
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This is a little off topic, but I'm in the process of swapping an E15 head onto and E16 block with little hotter cam. Dos anyone know the stock specs on the valve lift and valve diameter for the E15 head? I need these numbers to compare to the new measurements. Thanks
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Old Mar 11th, 2003, 10:32 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I believe all E-series cams are very close to being the same. I checked factory shop manuals from various years, and they are all in the neighborhood of the middle .300" range. The easiest way for you to verify what lift you have, put a dial indicator on the top of one of the retainers, and zero it out with the valve closed. Then turn the cam until the valve is at full lift, and read the dial indicator. That number is your [at valve] gross lift.
The size of the valves in the 15M [E15ET] head are Intake: 37mm [1.46"] and Exhaust: 31mm [1.22"].
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Old Mar 11th, 2003, 07:48 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Hey blown, thanks for the specs...if you remember, it's daniel from VA. I just pre-assembled the E15/E16 today to have valve clearances checked at the machine shop. Are you totally sure that I'll have to have the pistons reground? I'm hopin' not, but it's no real problem. Just curious as to what you think about the motor/head combo.

Last edited by BeEleven : Mar 11th, 2003 at 07:51 PM.
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Old Mar 12th, 2003, 11:53 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BeEleven
Hey blown, thanks for the specs...if you remember, it's daniel from VA. I just pre-assembled the E15/E16 today to have valve clearances checked at the machine shop. Are you totally sure that I'll have to have the pistons reground? I'm hopin' not, but it's no real problem. Just curious as to what you think about the motor/head combo.
***** Here are two pics, showing the differences of the two pistons. The first pic shows a stock E16 piston. Notice the wide flat deck ring at the top edge of the piston face. Also in this pic, you can see what kind of a mark the valve will leave in the piston, if the timing belt breaks.

The next picture shows a E15ET piston [which appears to be identicle to the Motorsport "High Performance" piston for the E16]. Notice the larger diameter area of the dish, and the subsequent thinner flat deck area to clear the larger valves.
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Last edited by blownb310 : Sep 26th, 2004 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Mar 12th, 2003, 02:21 PM   #43 (permalink)
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ok...i thought my E16 pistons had some OEM valve recesses ground already, but maybe that was just a result of timing failure...
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Old Mar 21st, 2003, 11:50 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Post E-series cyl. head prep

Here are some tips to prep an E-series cylinder head for a performance application. This works on all E-series heads. I am using this brand new 15M head to show the machine work.
In order to run larger performance camshafts, you're likely to need dual valvesprings. My cam is .490" lift, and the stock single springs would never be able to accomodate that much lift. So, to install the optional Motorsport inner valvespring, you'll need to machine off the "step" in the stock spring seats, as pointed out here:

After machining, they will look like this:

Then you will be able to install the Motorsport lower spring seat, for the dual spring setup. This photo shows the stock single spring seat, and then the Motorsport dual spring seat. The purpose of the steel spring seats, is to protect the aluminum cylinder head from getting chewed up by the hardened steel ends of the valvesprings.

Next, you'll need proper retainers for dual valvesprings. Oddly enough, the Nissan Motorsport catalog doesn't offer these. But enterprising Nissan enthusiasts found that using the stock intake valve retainers from a KA24E will work, use the same keepers, and fit perfectly. Here you can see a stock retainer on the left, and the KA24E intake retainers on the right.

The motorsport catalog does offer the needed inner valvespring, and in conjunction with the stock outer spring, can handle any cam you are likely to use. I shift my .035" over E16 at 7,000 rpm's all day long!
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Last edited by blownb310 : Sep 26th, 2004 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Mar 21st, 2003, 02:14 PM   #45 (permalink)
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hey blown, do you think i'll need dual springs if I'm running a cam with .414" of lift? (A.K.A. the one you sold me) and what's the max RPM i can run with the stock E15 springs do you think?
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