Originally posted by blownb310 ***** Well....I'd have to agree. It is easier to hop up the carbureted E-engines by traditional methods, i.e. cam, larger carb, header, etc. But we are all still waiting for the first guy to figure out how to get the larger tbi from the GA16i engine to work on the E16i. Much bigger bore, and it bolts on. Check out the thread called "GA16 tbi on an E16i". With the stock E16i tbi, you are really limited to any power gains.
Why would the cams not effect the TBI engines? Is the TBI really that restrictive that more free breathing cams won't help?
If that's the case then this is a new challenge for me
Originally posted by spankenstein Why would the cams not effect the TBI engines? Is the TBI really that restrictive that more free breathing cams won't help?
If that's the case then this is a new challenge for me
***** I beleive I have your answer. Check out this old thread from B15sentra.net: http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/show...ody+injection. I think it will tell the whole story. I was glad to be able to find it there, because they have recently shut off all B11-B14 forums.
Cheers!
How strong are these engines? My original intention for this car (87 XE Sport Coupe) was to swap in the SR20DET. I had a good price on one and was about to the point of purchasing one when Sport Compact Car decided to do there Silvia conversion. Now even the Bluebirds are way more than I want to spend.
I toyed arround with the idea of just an SR20DE but though I would first see what the E is cabable of. How strong are these? Why is there such a strong opposition to turboing without a rebuild? I've got a Focus and they get turboed with out many problems despite higher compression and powder forged rods as long as you keep enough fuel and not too much timing.
Originally posted by SuperHatch Is the cylinder head on the 84 e15 turbo have a more compression on it, and larger valves? or is that an aftermarket production?
***** Yes, it is known as the 15M head. My understanding is, that it was only sold in the US in 1983. It had smaller combustion chambers, and larger valves. Those larger valves need larger valve releifs on top of the pistons though. That's why the turbo pistons' crowns have a slightly different shape on top, to provide the necessary clearance. Nissan Motorsport sells relatively inexspensive stock replacement Euro pistons that yield 10 to 1 compression in a normally aspirated E16, [for use with the 15M head]. In other words, you can't run a turbo head on an E16 without piston to valve clearance problems, unless you get the matching pistons. I heard somwhere, of someone using a die-grinder to add the clearance into the tops of the original E16 pistons for the 15M head, but that sounds a little bit "butch" to me.
Originally posted by spankenstein blownb310, thanks that was informative.
How strong are these engines?
I toyed arround with the idea of just an SR20DE but though I would first see what the E is cabable of. How strong are these? Why is there such a strong opposition to turboing without a rebuild? I've got a Focus and they get turboed with out many problems despite higher compression and powder forged rods as long as you keep enough fuel and not too much timing.
***** I have been making about 150 hp with my 13 to 1 race E16, and have been beating the crap out it for six years, with no problems whatsoever.
I'd say they're plenty tough. Dave Rebello [in CA] has built many E16's that make in excess of 225 hp. That's with carbs [no turbo or nitrous]. But these are expensive full race applications, with custom crank, rods, pistons, valves, porting, crank trigger ignition, dry sump oiling, etc. Why are people opposed to turboing without a rebuild first? I don't know who said that. But it makes sense though. If you have some tired, oil burning E16, you might as well freshen it first. What good is boost, when you are loosing compression by your rings in the first place? It would probably blow the rubber oil cap off of a worn out E-engine.
Yah that makes sense to start with an engine in good internal shape. I spend the lst couple days going through almost all the threads and all the turbo related threads seemed to all end up talking about either the E15 or differnt head, pistons, etc.
Originally posted by antdagreat what all can be done to the e15t other than upgrading the turbo
***** Porting the head and turbo exhaust manifold are really important items. I'm sure the E15ET could use a larger camshaft too. And don't overlook the importance of adding an intercooler. Eventually, you'll want to upgrade to a larger turbo, crank the boost, and then you'll need a stand alone programable fuel system computer. Hybrid DET has been there and done all that. The next thing you'll find out is, that you can't keep the RS5F30A five-speed together! Aren't you glad you asked?
Originally posted by UnaClocker I suppose I'd need a computer and harness to match that engine, right? Got those too? $200 is better than the JDM engine I found, and boy do I love turbo cars..
***** That would have been a sweat deal indeed. No, I don't have the harnesses and ECU for it. Otherwise this engine would be under the hood of my winter beater '88 E16 4WD wagon. Too many projects.......not enough time.
This contains some good high performance E16 modification info. It was retrieved from the defunct B15Sentra.net B11-B14 forums. The question was asked: "How fast is your B11 Sentra, Blownb310?"
You must be referring to my B11 race car? I don't normally drag it, but I did test it at the strip. With the 10.2 to 1 E16 I spoke of, it ran a 15.3 sec. at 89 mph. But that was a mild engine. I replaced it with a .035 over E16 with 13 to 1 forged Cosworth pistons, o-ringed the block, full floated the stock rods, balanced it, used another new Motorsport big valve head, lightly ported, added a Rebello .490" lift cam, the twin 44mm Mikuni's, Pacesetter header w/crankcase evacuation, lightened stock flywheel, [cut on brake lathe myself], and used the stock lightweight stamped steel cam and jackshaft sprockets, that came off of my Pulsar turbo engine [E15ET]. I bought a used Motorsport "Ultra-close ratio" five-speed gearset in my RS5F30A transaxle, with 4.16 final gears. On C12 leaded racing gas, and 13" slicks, it ran a 14.18 at 96.9 mph. I was pleased, [especially for an "E" engine, that many people regard as a boat anchor].
Holy crap. Nice work... What kind of intake manifold did you use for the Mikuni carbs?
I had a hard time finding a twin side draft intake for an E-series engine. I asked Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing [in CA] if he had one, while I was ordering my cam from him. He said the Nissan Motorsport intakes were discontinued a long time ago. Luckily, he said he had one Mexican made generic twin side draft intake kicking around, that was a rough casting, not machined. He sold it to me cheaply, and I had it machined and then ported it while it was bolted to my cyl. head, for a perfect port match. It had an internal vacum balance orifice cast into it, between the cyl. runners. Dave didn't know why, and told me to block them off by filling them in. I used PC-7 and it works fine. The carbs themselves are 44mm, but came with 37mm "chokes" installed from Motorsport. This is fine, because I don't feel that my engine would benefit from having any larger a venturi. It pulls strongly from 5,400 to 7,000 rpm.
Huh. Sounds awesome. Can you give us more details about your pistons and the full floating piston pins?
The pistons were bought used, from a pile of old E16 race engines Dave had. One of them had a few nicks on the bottom of it, obviously from an engine faliure, but they polished out easily, and were not problematic in any way. I fit them at .0035" piston to wall clearance. The advice Dave gave me, was to use the stock forged rods, to drill a 1/8th inch oil hole at the top of the small end [pin end] of the rod, and champher the hole. Then have the pin bore of the rod honed for .001" clearance for the now full floating stock E16 wrist pin, and no bronze bushing would be necessary. He was right, no problems at all. It sure beats pressing the piston pins on and off too. Here's a great tip I learned from Dave also: For a real hot "E" engine, the total amount of ignition timing you'll want is ONLY 18-20 degrees. This is not very much, compared to other engines, but the shape and the small 17.9cc chambers on the FI or Turbo heads, dictate this. Again, I never would have tried that little timing, unless Dave Rebello said so. He dyno's all kinds of E-series race engines, and is in "the know." Thank you Dave!
Where does the actual floating pin come from? Are forged pistons still available?
The piston pins I used were the OE pins, nothing special about them. The fact that they are no longer pressed into the rod, and that they are now fitted with .001" clearance, makes them a floating pin. There are teflon "buttons" that center the pin and retain it, in the piston. The pistons were made by Cosworth. I would imagine that you could get them from places like Malvern Racing [VA] or Rebello Racing [CA]. The web address for Malvern Racing is: http://www.malvernracing.com, and the Rebello's web address is: http://www.rebelloracing.com.
Saved E16 thread from B15Sentra,net
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