So finally the 32/36 DGV is in (I still have to hook-up the electric choke and install some sort of oil catch can).
Boy, oh, boy, 180 degrees! Throttle response is immediate and with authority. The engine bay is MUCH cleaner, and the sound is music to my ears.
The hopeless chokeless stock carb was running pretty bad, I tried all the adjustments and nothing. The car was running too high at idle, particularly in the afternoons sitting in traffic.
I highly recommend everyone doing this as a first mod. But the only caveat is that it is not approved for California emmisions.
I have some questions for others who have done this swap:
1.) How do I connect the electric choke? (It's installed on the carb, just not hooked up)
2.) Does this carb pass tailpipe emmissions test, aka sniffer?
3.) Has anyone tried making a Cold Air Intake for the weber? The K&N Plenum is like $160, the Weber is like $110. If I could find something cheaper it would be cool. If not, I guess I'll leave like that.
I've done this with Rabbits and Sciroccos when the kits were $110, day in and day out; I can help with the choke situation.
On aforementioned vehicles, it was a simple matter of running a wire from the + terminal of the coil to the choke terminal, but with Nissans being electronic, I'd suggest running a wire from a keyed electrical source that has nothing to do with anything electronic (fusebox, say...) and go from there. I'm going after a 32/36 DFEV right now if I can't get this TBI BS solved...Best of luck!
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Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!
I have another 32/36, its in need of a rebuild though. If you want it, I'll look for it, I don't remember if its at the shop or at home. It was off a chyrsler or something.
A buddy in HS of mine had a rabbit with DCOEs installed (among other mods). Man was that thing fast. The thing was quicker than a lot of muscle cars and could lap them all day.
you will not pass any sort of CA inspection. Unless you put it on a 1975 or earlier car. While you might be able to get the emissions in to the ball park and if you had a catalytic converter you might be in the spirit of the law, it's not the smog equipment your car came with. So it's not legal.
Keep the OEM carb and stuff in a box for inspection time.
The guy I bought it off of had it on a porsche 914 he was autoXing in, I figured the jets already in it would be close, so I adjusted it and it hauls buttocks, so I don't know what size the jets are.
Well, I have the EGR and Cat (Cat's about 1 YO) installed, the only thing is I removed is the AIV. Lets just say if I pass sniffer, I'm cool.
Anyone got a pic of these carbs.... The reference to the Porsche 914 makes me think this is the same Carb i used on a '74 914 a couple years ago... If so Its a Weber design and was WIDELY used on Chevetts.. It was Badged as a Holley Licensed Weber... It took the same jets as other Holleys and was simple to tune/ rebuild.. Pre 80's are the best as they are Completly Mechanical... .. These are easily attained at JY's (As well as Various jets from 4Bbl Quads from early Chevys) and the rebuild kit is about $25... Oh yea and being a Progressive 2 Bbl. Makes it sweet for mileage and power... Small Primarys and Big Secondarys.... If anyone will post a pic I'll say for sure if its the same
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Yeah, these things are used on everything from Jeeps to Porsches. Weber recommends these carbs for people looking for fuel economy and performance for 4 cylinder and small 6 cylinder engines. All you need is the appropiate plate adapter and throttle linkage adapter and you're good to go.
I finally ran it hard today and boy does it pull! No wonder these carbs are so popular.
I've got question: when I shut the engine off after driving a while, e.g., on the freeway for like an hour, in traffic a while, etc., the engine "stutters" a little (dieseling I think its called) and I can hear like air expelling. It only does it warm. Could it be an unplugged vacuum or something I missed? It did it before I replaced the carb and still does it now.
Edit: I think it might be the timing, I had moved it when the old carb started behaving badly. I think I need to move it back.
mine does that too. I've been told that it can be the idle set too high. I have a vacuum leak too, so that might contribute. Your jetting may be causing that too.
mine does that too. I've been told that it can be the idle set too high. I have a vacuum leak too, so that might contribute. Your jetting may be causing that too.
Thats exactly what I did. My engine keep just dying after I started it up warm, I could hear a vacuum leak but I couldn't see it under all the vaccum hose etc. (gotta love that weber man ) So I move the idle really fast so it wouldn't die on the freeway, last night I found the vacuum leak, its behind the intake manifold, its a metal fitting about 3/8 big 90 degrees pointing up, i cut a piece of hose, plug it with a screw on one end, clamped it and viola, it doesn't die! Now I just have to move the idle back, its close though, runs fine.
When it's time for emissions, I just adjust the idle screw (clockwise) a little until you start to feel the engine stumbling the adjust the idle speed a little, That does it for me..
) So I move the idle really fast so it wouldn't die on the freeway, last night I found the vacuum leak, its behind the intake manifold, its a metal fitting about 3/8 big 90 degrees pointing up, i cut a piece of hose, plug it with a screw on one end, clamped it and viola, it doesn't die! Now I just have to move the idle back, its close though, runs fine.
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