well i'm gonna have to have a little part fabbed. The Ga16de TPS doesn't attach to the SR20 TB. Big surprise... What's good is that there is enough space to have a little metal adaptor that takes up the sr20 butterfly shaft and then fits into the ga16de tps and would be keyed properly. this might be a good time to try that online machine shop as this part is less than 1" long and has very little machining to do. Second question... does the sr20 TB fit? I dunno... haven't gotten around to trying to fit it. might have to make an adaptor, but thats pretty easy.
Gotta mail the n12 manual back to OZ so they'll send the right book...
other progress?
not really...
learning about exciting things like paint n auto body. I think i'll be swapping the bad tranny out of my datsun soon, got the new tranny ups yesterday and took it out and i think i can figure out how to take the old one out and put a new clutch / flywheel in. What does any of this have to do with the swap? Well the datsun is the easiest car to repair, so i feel more confident that I can do this other crazy swap. Then I'm putting one in the datsun. Think of all the money saved in parts when you have 2 cars that have the same engine. E15t's are running 11's in FWD cars, RWD = faster!
After I've done this ( it can be done right... I was told it can be done ) It should be way easier for anyone else to do.
//danny. u ever take that flywheel to get it lightned at TEP? i think i need to visit there too.
this would rastically change the setup your using right now but you could use the ga16de harness that your currently putting in and yes it would work way better as long as can tune it correctly
__________________
Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
no progress to speak of. I'm waiting on the safcII. I really think that if you want to swap in the e15t the best way is with a standalone. there are tons of guys in OZ with e15t's. Standalone's cost more but the end result is probably better and easier to wire.
E15t dizzy wires identified... other random progress
thanks to e15t_pulstrt@yahoo.com.au
black is ground, red is 12v, green is top dead centre of no. 1 cyl signal and
yellow is crank angle degree signal. I'll have to work this info into the wiring chart.
Waiting for the safc to show up one of these days. I've gotten emails from the person doing the group buy so I should see it in the next week(s).
Snagged a nismo clutch disk fot the e15t $25. I think i'll use the spare pressure plate from the 210 with it since the 210 pressure plate has more clamping force supposedly.
the n12 manual should be coming from australia soon as well.
danny's selling me a simple roll cage for the b11, so that's a good thing to have.
i have to go work on painting the datsun. it's going to be very hot out.
Can I take the "air pipe" out completely? Since I'm taking all the air regulation and FCID out does that air pipe need to be there?
Where does the MAF go? On the low pressure inlet before the turbo or after the turbo?
Can I put a cone filter on the MAF and attach the maf to the turbo inlet and then have the outlet of the turbo go directly the throttle body ( by way of the IC / BOV??? )
'Discovered' that i probably need a ga16de throttle body and fuel pump relay. Might not need the relay, there are other ways to make it work...
need to look at he N12 FSM and figure out what vaccum lines I need and what they hook to.
I'll be having a nice little intercooler and blow off valve too.
Can I take the "air pipe" out completely? Since I'm taking all the air regulation and FCID out does that air pipe need to be there?
-- yes but youll have to patch 2 coolant passage that are underneat it ... i figured that one out getting mine off for cleaning/bead blast... i suggest you have some metal plate done or have it welded shut (aluminium here...)
Where does the MAF go? On the low pressure inlet before the turbo or after the turbo?
-- before the turbo inlet ...
Can I put a cone filter on the MAF and attach the maf to the turbo inlet and then have the outlet of the turbo go directly the throttle body ( by way of the IC / BOV??? )
Yes, but it is recommended that you get at least a 90deg between the turbo and the maf. And also at least a foot away from the turbo (keep the maf away from heat source!!) but it could work too...
'Discovered' that i probably need a ga16de throttle body and fuel pump relay. Might not need the relay, there are other ways to make it work...
--Use the relay from the E16, and yes , youll need the ga16de TB.
need to look at he N12 FSM and figure out what vaccum lines I need and what they hook to.
--EGR, fuel pressure regulator, fuel canister if you keep it, brake booster... hummm wath else!!...
I'll be having a nice little intercooler and blow off valve too.[/quote]
Youll be getting more HP and better 1/4 time than wath im getting right now and probably on 7-9psi ...
__________________
Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
and yes it would work way better as long as can tune it correctly 
Linear Mode
