need advice on a ca18de anchorweight

mwolvin · May 21st, 2004, 12:53 PM

I have a 1988 pulsar with a ca18de under the hood. Unfortunately, the car's previous owner threw a rod (through the block) at 70mph and the engine is now usable only as a boat anchor. I am planning on replacing the engine but would like advice on what to put in it, either another ca18 or possibly a sr20de. I need to keep the cost around $600, but will do all the work myself. The rest of the car is in decent shape, needing only a paint job, which may come later. for what it's worth-- the car currently has an automatic transmission.

Any creative ideas as to what to do with the blown ca18de would be appreciated as well.

Thanks!

minute rice sentra · May 21st, 2004, 12:59 PM

swap in this DET and get a 5-speed from another pulsar
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...479202324&rd=1

mwolvin · May 21st, 2004, 04:34 PM

I was thinking more on the lines of a non-turbo engine for cost and reliability reasons. I suspect the engine you have for sale on ebay will sell for around $1000 (just a guess.) I am a little concerned about using another ca18 because the one I have has only 104K miles on it, and was not smoking, knocking, pinging, or accelerating before it blew. As you can imagine, I am a little anxous to tear it down to find out what happened. Has anyone else had similar experiences with these engines or is this pretty will isolated?

minute rice sentra · May 21st, 2004, 06:05 PM

That's not my engine

, I've never even heard of a CA throwing a rod, turbo or not. If you decide to go SR it's gonna be alot more expensive then just staying with a CA, you'll have to have custom mounts for one and the SR's are just more expensive to buy and repair. The CA seems to be a very good and reliable engine the only problem I really hear about is rod bearing failure, this seems to be common with so called "low mileage" imported motors, but I think the reason is because people give the CA's alot of abuse because they are said to be very "stout", but if the life of the engine is unknown then it can't be expected to perform flawlessly, anyways, enough of my rambling.
Was anything else damaged? If not maybe you could just get anouther short block and swap everything onto it. Would be cheaper than a complete engine.

Myetball · May 21st, 2004, 06:35 PM

I would say throwing a rod through the block is an isolated occurance. Sounds like a combination of maintenance neglect and high rpm abuse. If you take proper care of these engines they will last as long as any other, probably longer.

I's say get another CA or shortblock and put it back together.

mwolvin · May 23rd, 2004, 03:36 PM

I guess what I need to do next is tear down the engine I have and see what kind of internal damage I have. This thing blew at 70, so I have a high chance of having head damage and bent valves. The end of the connecting rod that attaches to the crankshaft is poking through the block, so there is a possibility of crank damage too. If I were to guess at what was usable right now, I'd say the cams and the oil pan, but maybe I got lucky. The previous owner (the one it blew on) is not known for being a speedracer and had just spent $500 on the engine getting the timing belt/chain replaced (I'm not sure which the engine has) and apparently, they did not set the valve timing correctly, initially. The owner before this had the car sitting in a field for several years, hence the ruined paint job.

minute rice sentra · May 23rd, 2004, 03:41 PM

sitting in a field turns the oil into some pretty nasty stuff too, that could be a cause of the failure.

mwolvin · May 24th, 2004, 06:10 PM

You're right, that very well could be the reason the engine blew. Maybe we should add that to the top ten reasons to change your oil (Ker-CHUNK!!)

I've thought about welding the block back together and replacing the rod, but I have a feeling that the engine would never run right again. I don't think I'll do it. Anybody need an 80lb hood ornament?

minute rice sentra · May 24th, 2004, 06:57 PM

turn it into a coffe table or something

mwolvin · May 25th, 2004, 11:14 AM

Complete with four cupholders!

livelyjay · May 26th, 2004, 12:18 PM

To keep the cost low, your best bet would be to go with another CA18DE. You can get those motors online, rebuilt, for around $450. I think nipponmotors sells them for that much. Make sure you get the CA18DE from the 87 or 88, because Nissan decompressed the engine for the 89 and 90 so it puts out less hp.

Myetball · May 26th, 2004, 03:18 PM

Actually, that whole low power '89 + CA18DE is a misprint that has been purpetuated throughout the internet, we debunked that myth some time last year. I think Chilton's started it....just guessing. All the USDM CA18DE's are the same so you can get any one you want. The JDM shortblocks may have 9.5:1 vs. 10:1, not 100% sure though.

livelyjay · May 26th, 2004, 03:28 PM

I will discontinue the perpetuation of misinformation. I'm glad to hear they are all the same, because it makes sense.

mwolvin · May 26th, 2004, 05:47 PM

I appreciate all the feedback y'all. I found a company that sells Japan CA18DE's for $400, but I want to make sure (naturally) that I am purchasing from a reputable company so I don't get ripped off. Have any of you heard anything about Soko America, located in Franklin Park, Illinois? I would appreciate all feedback, good, bad, or indifferent.

By the way, according to the emails I have received, they offer a 6 month unlimited mile warranty.

Myetball · May 26th, 2004, 08:26 PM

That's a pretty good deal. Maybe you could ask them to do a compression and leak down test and give you the numbers before you buy. The six month warranty is good but you'd take it in the shorts on shipping if you had to get a warranty replacement.

Ah, found their site.... http://www.soshinusa.com/ They have actually been recommended by blownb310. I'd go for it if I were in your position. They have an outlet in Los Angeles if that's closer to you.