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E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines Engine Discussion: 1982-1990 Sentra/Pulsar

       
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Old May 4th, 2004, 10:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
icehawkey
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Please Help Me Make My Pulsar Faster!!

88 pulsar with e16 possibly e15 engine. (dont see engine #) fuel injected.

i race it with full 6 point rollcage racing seat 5 point belts rebar/window screen, window net , lobak raciong muffler dot street tires on a 1/4 mile dirt track.

this is a stock class so i cant put on racing parts9except the muffler).

HOW DO I MAKE IT GO FASTER!?!?!???

turbo and superchargers not allowed. has to be oem style engine.

i want to advance the timing but cant figure that out due to eccs. can i get around the ecu?

any help would be greatly appreciated!

hawk
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Old May 4th, 2004, 10:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
Gsolo
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first of all, you've posted the hell out of this and you'll be lucky to stay around very long. Second, if you want to advance the timing then advance the timing. its not that hard to do on an E16, just use your light and turn the distributor. You want to go faster? try port and polishing, valve jobs, little thigns like that. you can't do a whole lot and stay within stock rules
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Old May 4th, 2004, 10:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Multiple threads deleted. Let me know if he does it again.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 10:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you're up for some engine work, drop a Euro cam and a 15M head on that sucker. The judges would never know the difference....unless they know to check the casting number on the head.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 10:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myetball
If you're up for some engine work, drop a Euro cam and a 15M head on that sucker. The judges would never know the difference....unless they know to check the casting number on the head.
depends on the judges, they can and probably would measure cam. and i'm sure they can cross reference the head. but its worth a shot if you're willing
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Old May 5th, 2004, 12:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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im sorry for multiple posts but dont get your panties in a twist. im new so be nice.how do i delete a thread if i post it? just tried to find the right hidden forum and finally found e-series and then i barely got anyone to look at the first post so i wanted to try asking a broader question.

i manually advanced the timing but the eccs still controls it and adjusts it, right?

if i run higher octane gas (where do i find it? 91 is all local stations have) will the ecu just automatically advance th timing?

what about a superchip ala dragonchips? does anyone in the states sell them for nissan?

i dont have money time for serious cheating plus i think it defeats the point of my division which is supposedly inexpensive entry level stock cars. its a $750 whole car (minus seat & belts) claiming division. so to put a bunch of money in and have it claimed would be stupid. plus if it gets claimed and they notice the mods i would be suspende if i got another car.

we dont get out of 2nd gear. the rpms get real high. in my 88 honda accord it had a carb and i advanced the hell out of the timing and it won races untill some idiot crashed it to bits.

im grateful for any any help.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 01:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You only advance the base timing. The ECU still controls the over all ignition timing. Superchip or dragonchip would not work for your car. You will need the high octane when you advance the timing. The ECU will not advance it automatically just putting high octane though.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 01:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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since you can't use any race parts, can you rig up a CAI? It might help a bit.

what mods are you allowed?

header?

larger exhaust piping perhaps

upgrade the high voltage coil?

K&N filter ( if you want to belive )

is the problem that you have a 1.5 or 1.6 liter and are going against alot of 1.8 and 2.0 cars?

Higher octane won't do anything unless you have your timing so advanced that your engine pings, and then all it does is stop the pinging.

That race sounds fun where do they do it?
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Old May 5th, 2004, 02:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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what does base timing mean?

i race at antioch speedway about 45 miles from san francisco. lots of tracks race these kinds of 4 bangers. most dirt and many paved tracks all over the country. some having racing engine some only fwd some only rwd. they are called 4 bangers at my track but many tracks call em mini-stocks, foreign stocks, hornets, mini-fours, super fours etc...
http://www.antiochspeedway.com/

this link can help you find a so cal track
http://www.dcrr.net/tracks.html

the engine is supposed to be oem. just like it looked when it came from the factory. no porting polishing boring racing cams air intake etc...

in my old carb accord i just turned the distributer without a timing light(there were no timing marks?!) until it sounded good and ran 91 octane plus nos racing formula octane booster.

just bought some torco mach 1 racing fuel concentrate to try.
http://www.need4speedpower.com/torco.html

what about synthetic oil. engine has 50.000 miles? hyperlube racing oil additive?

thanx for your input and for putting up with a dumb noob!!
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Old May 5th, 2004, 02:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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since you can't use any race parts, can you rig up a CAI? It might help a bit.

what mods are you allowed?


how would i upgrade the high voltage coil? what would that do?

yes the 2.0 preludes with 16 valves are fast! i beat the 1.8 hondas though.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 05:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well, if it's an OEM race then cheating kind of defeats the purpose. I wouldn't feel right winning if I were cheating. Read through the e-series modification list, there's bound to be some ideas in there. Maybe try reducing the valve lash....stock setting is .011" you can set to .010" with no problem, not sure how far down you can go before things start getting too noisy. Synthetic oil might be a good idea, maybe 10w30, lightweight but won't break down at high rpm.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 09:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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you seem to be at a bit of a disadvantage displacement wise. But you probably have as much torque as the other cars. can you lighten the car any? do you have power steering if so, loose it, and if this race is under 2 hours long you could disconnect your alternator. You'd probably gain as much as 10 HP by removing those 2 loads.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 02:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well the car is stripped and as light as possible.

hot laps are about 5 laps the heat race is 8 laps and the main event 20
with warm up laps and cautions its about 50 laps on a 1/4 mile so around 12 miles a niught and about 25-30 minutes on the track.

if i disconnect the power steering (how?) will it drive strange? kinda used to oversteer.

how do i run the battery and the car without alternator?

still curious and confused about advancing the timing with a computer eccs/ecu.

thanx guys!
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Old May 5th, 2004, 02:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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to remove the power steering minimally you could take the belt off, some people cap the lines going in to the rack, I bought a manual rack.

i think there are 2 ways to unhook the alternator, the forsure one is to unhook the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery, unplugging the 2 wire connector plugged in to the back might achive the same effect.

Most people with b11 & b12's like the feel of the manual rack. I think it makes the car handle better because it makes it harder to turn the wheel too far when setting up for turns, so you hold more speed.

you have EFI, so I'm wondering if unhooking the alternator is a good idea, i suppose if you watch the voltage and charge the battery between races it would be ok, or put a switch in so you can turn it off briefly when you need more power.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 05:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If your battery dies on you in the middle of a race you're screwed. Of course the judges may want you to have your alternator connected.

As for the timing, on the E16i your fuel injector and ignition timing are controlled by the ECU based on input from the crank angle sensor (CAS) and air flow meter. The CAS is built into the distributor. So, advancing the idle speed timing will keep the timing advanced throughout the driving range since the computer assumes the distributor is set to 7 deg. base timing.
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