Possible damage to spark plug hole threads, Considering Helicoil, Seeking some advice
Okay, I don't know for a fact if they are trashed or not, but here's what's going on with it..
The #1 spark plug goes in and tightens like the others, but then there's just this 'slip' feel when I'm done tightening. It's happened the last 3 times I've messed with the plugs, so I don't think it couldn't be completely stripped.
I'm not going to touch them until I re-work my head anyways--
I HATE aluminum threads, just cuz they get damaged easily. When I have the head off, what would be the drawbacks to helicoiling all 4 spark holes?
Even without thread damage, I would like to reduce any chance of future mess-ups.. I figure for a few bucks it could save me a huge headache later on.
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Don't see anything wrong with it. I'd just get the one done and be more careful when installing plugs. As long as you're getting the head redone how about getting another one that's not stripped, junkyard or ebay.
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supposedly aircraft parts have helicoil inserts on all the aluminum parts, so it doesn't hurt anything. I've been trying to helicoil all the places where hardened bolts go into soft aluminum. as long as it's done properly, you should be fine..
whenever you're putting sparkplugs in (especially in an aluminum head) you should grease them up with umm...well its blue and comes in little packets at shucks. Cant remember what its called it helps prevent stretching and the heat from causing plugs and head to stick and ruin threads. Mitsubishi is worst...well was. i think they improved their newer heads.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
anti sieze lubricant - it's silver paste, that's the best thing to do. 99 cents a pack, you can also use it on lug nuts, head studs and other high temperature things not brake related. so maybe spent the $5 and buy a tube
anti sieze lubricant - it's silver paste, that's the best thing to do. 99 cents a pack, you can also use it on lug nuts, head studs and other high temperature things not brake related. so maybe spent the $5 and buy a tube
i've seen it bluish before
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
Anyways, I'm going to do all the headwork myself.. this going to be my first time doing any of this...
I'm going to be honing the block, re-ringing, and changing the rod barings while I do this too ^2
But back to the head..
I wouldn't mind getting a new one, just figgured I know mine's held up this long, it can't be too bad off. I've never adjusted the valves or anything-- the engine has more than 180,000 miles on it. (UNTOUCHED for atleast 100k internally, mind you)
Helicoiling 4 holes while it's apart would be much better than tearing the head off later to fix one. Just figgured while I'm doing one, might as well do the rest.
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Hope you weren't using blue locktight, you'll never get em out
damn, maybe i was thinking of the wrong stuff.........i can't remember what color what is i guess. whats the point of color coding if you can't rmember. i suppose blue stuff would be bad, only blue stuff i have is RTV that'll work on plugs wont it
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21