I AM a newbee here and I've been reading everything I could find on the ca engine. I have a Pulsar and its been in the shop for almost three weeks now. It went in for a simple valve job but all sorts of stuff happened. One of the major things was my exhaust manifold was cracked and I didn't know it. I'm guessing that that is what precipitated needing the valve job in the first place.
My mechanic replaced everything that was messed up and plus a few extra things because they was in the area, and put my engine back together. Everything that needed machining got machined also, but as soon as they put the coolant in it started to run out from under the gasket on the side opposite the timing belt. We believe the block is toast, and are now trying to locate another one.
I said all of this to ask this question:
Is there another block that can be used with the top half of my engine???
I don't want to replace the entire engine because I spent a LOT of money rebuilding the top half. Also does anyone know where I can get another engine in the southwest just in case.
Can somebody help me out with this
If I remember correctly, the CA16 and CA18 block and head were interchangable. There are some threads that have some details about what heads will fit on what, it will just take some searching.
if you have the CA16 or CA18 you are better off sticking with that engine just cause it saves on hassles. sounds like either your head is warped or your block is cracked. I'm going to lean towards warped head. Either that or very very bad gasket
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
The block is definately TOAST! The gasket is new and the leak is from the block itself... I have been looking all over the place trying to find out what heads can match up to what blocks. I am having NO luck. If someone knows what goes with what PLEASE tell me.....
I have full intentions on keeping the engine that is in my car, in my car. It ran great until about a month ago, dammit the hell!!!
__________________
I'm sorry, we are closed now. Please, extricate yourself from your seat and get out!!!
Last edited by cuzinaddie : Mar 27th, 2004 at 11:27 PM.
Reason: left something out
After reading around a little, I found that the CA16 may have a smaller combustion chamber (hence the smaller displacement) than the CA18 so you'd probably be better off trying to find another CA18 block if yours is toast. Can you see an actual crack in the block?
give oem surplus a call or send an email. they almost certainly have that block even if its not listed on their site. they have many parts not listed so please dont overlook them as a possability. their prices are usuallly great!
__________________ Suspension: SE Pulsar swaybars, Sportline springs, 14" wheels Brakes: SE-R brakes, Stanza MC, Turbo Pulsar booster Engine: E15et project
CA16DE: 3.07 x 3.29 (inches)
CA18DE: 3.27 x 3.29 (inches)
I have no idea if the CA16DE block can be safely bored out an extra two tenths of an inch. If they are the same blocks from the same mold I'd say it would be alright. But I have no way to verify.
__________________
Nissan Forum Members that have ripped me off/owe me money: Nicholas Smaldone hpi911t@yahoo.com Steven M. Castano wcdbsteve@yahoo.com & stan410@aol.com
187-A Extended Bowery Street__________22 Potomac Lane
Frostburg, MD 21532__________________Sayville, NY 11782 (631) 563-1292
CA16DE: 3.07 x 3.29 (inches)
CA18DE: 3.27 x 3.29 (inches)
I have no idea if the CA16DE block can be safely bored out an extra two tenths of an inch. If they are the same blocks from the same mold I'd say it would be alright. But I have no way to verify.
well...the stroke in the CA16 is actually .01mm more. But oh well. Both 18 and 16 have the same compression ratio, so I would think that with having the same stroke and compression ratio they might interchange...provided valves would be ok and pistons are similar. I'm not suggesting this though, it would be like downgrading. I'd suggest finding a CA18DE, not that hard really .
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
well...the stroke in the CA16 is actually .01mm more. But oh well. Both 18 and 16 have the same compression ratio, so I would think that with having the same stroke and compression ratio they might interchange...provided valves would be ok and pistons are similar. I'm not suggesting this though, it would be like downgrading. I'd suggest finding a CA18DE, not that hard really .
I found 2 but they are on the east coast and I don't want to ship if I dont gotta. Me, my son, my mechanic and the mechanics WIFE all have feelers out around SoCal but so far, nothing. Maybe you know someone that I should get in touch with, would you care to give a name??? Up until Thursday I didn't even know these forums existed and maybe thats why its so hard for me to find one.
__________________
I'm sorry, we are closed now. Please, extricate yourself from your seat and get out!!!
Up until Thursday I didn't even know these forums existed and maybe thats why its so hard for me to find one.
true. I dont know anyone specificallly....all the help i can give you is to find a whole complete engine. I know that a few people on these forums have probably some knowledge of where to go in SoCal
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
I know WMengineering had a CA18DE laying around. Not sure if he sold it or is pushing ahead with his project. Search him out and send him a message. If I remember right, he bought a brand new long block assembly from an outfit in southern cali.
Okay, after an exhaustive search I found the place WMengineering bought his brand new long block (block, crank, rods, pistons, head). Click this link for Nippon-Motors They are located in Cerritos, CA 90703. I didn't see a link to a new long block, just used engines but I bet if you call them they can hook you up. If they don't have any long blocks left, you should be able to get a good low-mileage used engine for $450.
__________________
Nissan Forum Members that have ripped me off/owe me money: Nicholas Smaldone hpi911t@yahoo.com Steven M. Castano wcdbsteve@yahoo.com & stan410@aol.com
187-A Extended Bowery Street__________22 Potomac Lane
Frostburg, MD 21532__________________Sayville, NY 11782 (631) 563-1292
Last edited by Myetball : Mar 28th, 2004 at 12:16 PM.
I know WMengineering had a CA18DE laying around. Not sure if he sold it or is pushing ahead with his project. Search him out and send him a message. If I remember right, he bought a brand new long block assembly from an outfit in southern cali.
Okay, after an exhaustive search I found the place WMengineering bought his brand new long block (block, crank, rods, pistons, head). Click this link for Nippon-Motors They are located in Cerritos, CA 90703. I didn't see a link to a new long block, just used engines but I bet if you call them they can hook you up.
Once again, thank you Myetball. Now, can you tell me the difference between a block and a long block??? Arent they the same...
__________________
I'm sorry, we are closed now. Please, extricate yourself from your seat and get out!!!
A "block" is just that, a bare block with nothing inside or attached.
A "short block" is a block with crank, rods, and pistons installed.
A "long block" is a block with crank, rods, pistons, and cylinder head installed. I believe the head would have valves, springs, and tappets installed. No cams or cam gears.
WMengineering said he paid $700 for his new long block.
__________________
Nissan Forum Members that have ripped me off/owe me money: Nicholas Smaldone hpi911t@yahoo.com Steven M. Castano wcdbsteve@yahoo.com & stan410@aol.com
187-A Extended Bowery Street__________22 Potomac Lane
Frostburg, MD 21532__________________Sayville, NY 11782 (631) 563-1292
A "block" is just that, a bare block with nothing inside or attached.
A "short block" is a block with crank, rods, and pistons installed.
A "long block" is a block with crank, rods, pistons, and cylinder head installed. I believe the head would have valves, springs, and tappets installed. No cams or cam gears.
WMengineering said he paid $700 for his new long block.
sometimes they have cams. And depending on some people they can be turnkey longblock or longblock minus intake exhaust etc etc. usually they're like what myet said, but some people take it a little farther. If you dont' need the head be best to look for a short block. If you dont' mind the work you could go with bare block. If you really just want it to be easy and not worry about the cost go with long block
Or if you dont have options just go with whatever you find that works
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21