Valve clearance on NISSAN E15 (S) Engine - Nissan Forum
E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines Engine Discussion: 1982-1990 Sentra/Pulsar

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post #1 of 19 Old Mar 3rd, 2004, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Valve clearance on NISSAN E15 (S) Engine

Does anybody know what is the valve clearance for inlet and outlet for this type of engine? The car is Nissan SUNNY (SENTRA) made in 1985?


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post #2 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relmas
Does anybody know what is the valve clearance for inlet and outlet for this type of engine? The car is Nissan SUNNY (SENTRA) made in 1985?
All E-series engines require .011 inch (.28 mm) clearances for intake and exhaust valves. Engine must be full warm to adjust...as well as turned off (Giggles...not to imply you don't realize that; Just thought a funny was in order )

Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!

Last edited by recycled_toddler; Mar 4th, 2004 at 12:48 AM.
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post #3 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recycled_toddler
All E-series engines require .011 inch (.28 mm) clearances for intake and exhaust valves. Engine must be full warm to adjust...as well as turned off (Giggles...not to imply you don't realize that; Just thought a funny was in order )
Thank You for information, but for cold operation there is no value.? Will be very dificult to do this with hot engine (burn fingers, etc).

I know it is better with hot, but maybe adjust them cold and only check hot...
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post #4 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recycled_toddler
All E-series engines require .011 inch (.28 mm) clearances for intake and exhaust valves. Engine must be full warm to adjust...as well as turned off (Giggles...not to imply you don't realize that; Just thought a funny was in order )

if you really realy really wanted to you could adjust while engine was running...but i dont think i would

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post #5 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 04:19 PM
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are you guys talking about tappet-valve clearance or valve-piston clearance

Why did I pick such a slow car?

B11 project car for sale!
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post #6 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsolo
if you really realy really wanted to you could adjust while engine was running...but i dont think i would
on my e16 we adjusted clearances while it was running because my valve train has a bit of lash and doing it while the engine was stopped didn't get it right.

it's a bit messy with the spraying oil, but not too bad.

1981 datsun 210. nothing interesting here...
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post #7 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recycled_toddler
All E-series engines require .011 inch (.28 mm) clearances for intake and exhaust valves. Engine must be full warm to adjust...as well as turned off (Giggles...not to imply you don't realize that; Just thought a funny was in order )
And i've heard .010 inch. Not that it makes much difference...but yeah

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post #8 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 09:01 PM
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I do 10 when it's warm just so it'll run a little quieter.

My sentra! My 200SX! My Brother's 300Z!
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post #9 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minute rice sentra
I do 10 when it's warm just so it'll run a little quieter.
i need to do it here soon...anything special about this engine i should know about when setting valve?

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post #10 of 19 Old Mar 4th, 2004, 10:13 PM
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Not really, Just make sure The cylinder you're working on is right at TDC of compression stoke and try to do it while the engine is warm for best results. You might want to grab a VC gasket set/W grommets if your valve cover leaks at all. I think that's all you really have to worry about.

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post #11 of 19 Old Mar 5th, 2004, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsolo
And i've heard .010 inch. Not that it makes much difference...but yeah
Maybe 0.10 is for cold engine and 0.11 is for hot.

Also another question:

The numbering of cylinders start from left to right? I mean number 4 near the water pump?

Thanks.
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post #12 of 19 Old Mar 5th, 2004, 09:57 AM
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The cylinder closest to the front of the engine is #1. Setting the valves at .010" isn't stated in any manuals or anything, they all say to set it to .011. Someone on the forums said that they set the valves to .010 so I tried it and it runs it little quieter now. There's probably more valve float at high rpms but there's no power up there anyways.

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post #13 of 19 Old Mar 5th, 2004, 11:51 AM
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Actually I've heard that you always set the exhaust valves with a little more clearance so I set mine to 11 and the intake valves to 10...both cold settings.

Why did I pick such a slow car?

B11 project car for sale!
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post #14 of 19 Old Mar 5th, 2004, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relmas
Maybe 0.10 is for cold engine and 0.11 is for hot.

Also another question:

The numbering of cylinders start from left to right? I mean number 4 near the water pump?

Thanks.
The numbering starts at the fan-belt end of the engine, working back. And as far as valve clearances, I'd run .011 regardless of intake or exhaust. That provides time for the valves to transfer heat to the seats and out through the head so they don't burn up, especially the exhaust valves. Tight exhaust valves are the #1 reason they burn up.

Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!
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post #15 of 19 Old Mar 5th, 2004, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recycled_toddler
The numbering starts at the fan-belt end of the engine, working back. And as far as valve clearances, I'd run .011 regardless of intake or exhaust. That provides time for the valves to transfer heat to the seats and out through the head so they don't burn up, especially the exhaust valves. Tight exhaust valves are the #1 reason they burn up.
yep. And i looked it up today,

.011 warm and .009 cold.

Its recommended warm though, the only time you do cold is from an overhaul/rebuild.

And I bolded that for anyone who's gonna look it up later

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