1987 Pulsar E16i - CV Joint/boot replacement -advice-

nivocob · Feb 23rd, 2004, 07:44 PM

Hey guys,

Well on the way home from the University today I noticed that about midway through the drive the steering wheel started to shimy a bit to the left. Seemed to be in sorta in sync with each rotation of the wheel. At first I figured it was my Lug nuts coming loose, but when I jacked up the car I noticed that the nuts were not the problem. I figured it had to be something with the CV joint and boy was I right! Seems the left front boot (for the outer joint near the tire) is in two seperate pieces now.

My questions are as follows:
- How difficult is it to replace the boot?
- Should i go for a new joint as well?
- I'd like to do it myself, not sure were to get parts, besides the dealer.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks, Mark.

PS. here are some photo's of the boot so you can all see. Next to be replaced are my shocks, the stock 87's seem to be turning into rust lol!

There is still grease in there so I am hoping I *only* need to put on a new boot.

Gsolo · Feb 23rd, 2004, 08:04 PM

wow, that looks familiar

umm...go to Checkers, Shucks, or Krager (whatever you have there) and they have a cv axle assembly for $70 some if i remember right. You'd be better off doing that cause you already have dirt and crap in the joint. If you don't have money at the moment find a cheap way to seal it to keep it from getting worse (ie: sandwhich bag and duct-tape).

The procedure is kinda simple, depends on your mechanical inclination. If you're going to replace the strut its easier to do that at the same time. Disconnect the strut from the knuckle (the top bolt on the knuckle is a camber adjustment bolt). Then take off the axle/spindle nut. Hopefully you can pull the knuckle down far enough to pull the axle out, then using a good pry bar or big flat head screwdriver pry the axle out of the tranny. replace the opposite way you took it out. You'll probably have to tap the axle in though, sometimes the snap ring thingys don't like you.

If you can't get the strut off cause its so damn rusted and stuck (like mine, 150ft-lbs impact couldnt' turn a bolt) then do it by disconnecting the knuckle from the ball joint...this willl require a pickle fork (who came up with this name??). Also if doing this way it helps to unbolt the strut from the top of the car, beware though that the only thing holding your knuclke and strut is the tie rod..DON'T LET IT DROP or else you'll break something.

Good luck

Mervic · Feb 23rd, 2004, 09:57 PM

When you use the pickle fork, it will damage the ball joint rubber which keeps the grease inside. I believe you can buy a new rubber grease made by Lisle. Just take it easy with the hammer so as not to damage the ball joint itself. It is easier to remove the spindle nut when the car is on the ground and someone stepping on the brake. That nut is torqued down pretty good.

minute rice sentra · Feb 23rd, 2004, 10:09 PM

I used a 4-ft pry bar between the cv joint housing and the backed-off ball joint nut to break it loose, probably not the best idea though.

Red_Coupe · Feb 23rd, 2004, 10:14 PM

in the long run you could save money on a remaned axle .and just replace the whole thing that way . less hasle it take about 20 mins to replace if you have done it before. compared to fighting the cv kit .

muccman · Feb 23rd, 2004, 11:12 PM

i just took a quick glance at my boots today and i noticed they were starting to crack... will probably get that fixed closer to summer time

nivocob · Feb 24th, 2004, 12:28 AM

Carefull with that buds. That was my plan, but as you can see it sorta didn't work out for me lol. You could always take some precautionary mesures similar to what Gsolo said, throw some heavy duty plastic over the boots and duct tape it to be on the safe side till summer time. Could be an idea perhaps.

Im gonna phone around for a price on a complete halfshaft/driveaxle, that seems to be the way im heading. Thanks for all the replies guys.

Gsolo · Feb 24th, 2004, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red_devil

in the long run you could save money on a remaned axle .and just replace the whole thing that way . less hasle it take about 20 mins to replace if you have done it before. compared to fighting the cv kit .

thats what i was trying to say

And yeah the pickle fork does damage the joints rubber...i just got new ball joints , they really aren't that expensive. I figure might as replace something if i have it apart now

nivocob · Feb 25th, 2004, 09:12 AM

Alright, I got jackstands and everything. One more question, what size sockets/wrenches will i need for the bolts? Thanks.

Myetball · Feb 25th, 2004, 05:45 PM

A 32mm or 30mm for the axle nut. You should basically get a whole set from 19mm on down, that way you're covered.

Gsolo · Feb 25th, 2004, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myetball

A 32mm or 30mm for the axle nut. You should basically get a whole set from 19mm on down, that way you're covered.

or 1 1/4" for the axle nut. it's "exactly" the same size. I say "exactly" cause I know its not exactly but its "exactly".

nivocob · Feb 26th, 2004, 01:19 AM

Ok, progress report.

Thanks again for the help guys. I took the wheel off, disconnected the reast and pulled out the axle, easy as pie. Got the new axle but the damned thing didnt come with the transaxle seal/ wheel seals. Got those at a parts place. All is going smoothly but I should have known better. The transaxle seal I have is too small. I'm a little tired right now so forgive me if i miss the names up a bit, what I am refering to is the seal that fits on the end of the inner CV joint as it connects with the trans. Like i said it is just too small, is there a differnce between the input and output (inbound/outbound. i heard them called as well) seals? None of the techs seemed to be able to answer my question? My hypothesis is i received the wrong seal.

I'm gonna head to the dealer tomorrow, hopefully they can give me a hand. Other than this seal issue, it's all good and with any luck I'll be on the road tomorrow. Thanks again for the help and as always, replies are greatly appreciated.

Gsolo · Feb 26th, 2004, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nivocob

Ok, progress report.

Thanks again for the help guys. I took the wheel off, disconnected the reast and pulled out the axle, easy as pie. Got the new axle but the damned thing didnt come with the transaxle seal/ wheel seals. Got those at a parts place. All is going smoothly but I should have known better. The transaxle seal I have is too small. I'm a little tired right now so forgive me if i miss the names up a bit, what I am refering to is the seal that fits on the end of the inner CV joint as it connects with the trans. Like i said it is just too small, is there a differnce between the input and output (inbound/outbound. i heard them called as well) seals? None of the techs seemed to be able to answer my question? My hypothesis is i received the wrong seal.

I'm gonna head to the dealer tomorrow, hopefully they can give me a hand. Other than this seal issue, it's all good and with any luck I'll be on the road tomorrow. Thanks again for the help and as always, replies are greatly appreciated.

The problem is they had the part on stock. You need the seal for the RS5F31A ...NOT 30A. I ran into this when i thought about replacing them...for me it would take 5 days to get and i didnt' have that time, and suprisingly the ones on my new tranny were good enough for now. Take your seals back and ask for the ones for the 31A tranny...if their book doesn't show it tell them you want a refund and will go else where.

Edit: Try here they have them, right side is $10.99 left side $8.99 i think. they're called M/T output shaft seals

nivocob · Feb 26th, 2004, 11:50 PM

Thanks for the reply. The car is good to go!! My buddy and i got er up and running. The parts i was confused about earlier were actually the dust covers on either end of the axle that go over top of the seals. Seems they don't come with the new axle and the dealership does not carry them at all, can't even order them in seperately. Luckily i got a hold of my old axle before they sent it in as a core, and took the dust covers off that. *So, when/if you guys change your driveaxles, make sure to keep the dust covers, cause you'll be screwed otherwise. I'm probably preaching to the converted, but it sure was news to me.

Everything is running well now and I'm really happy, saved a ton of cash, and learned a whole lot. Thanks again for the help everyone, I keep learning more and more skills as the days go by and these forums are a big part of that. Now it's time for some

Gsolo · Feb 27th, 2004, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nivocob

Thanks for the reply. The car is good to go!! My buddy and i got er up and running. The parts i was confused about earlier were actually the dust covers on either end of the axle that go over top of the seals. Seems they don't come with the new axle and the dealership does not carry them at all, can't even order them in seperately. Luckily i got a hold of my old axle before they sent it in as a core, and took the dust covers off that. *So, when/if you guys change your driveaxles, make sure to keep the dust covers, cause you'll be screwed otherwise. I'm probably preaching to the converted, but it sure was news to me.

Everything is running well now and I'm really happy, saved a ton of cash, and learned a whole lot. Thanks again for the help everyone, I keep learning more and more skills as the days go by and these forums are a big part of that. Now it's time for some

actually those dust boots are suppose to come with....