I was on the Nopi website (nopi.com) and was looking through the parts available for Pulsar's and they listed an aluminum flywheel for the E16 engine for about $450. I don't think anyone knows about these or am I just the last to know?
They also listed a TWM manifold for twin throttle bodies or Werbers.
Originally posted by gspot I was on the Nopi website (nopi.com) and was looking through the parts available for Pulsar's and they listed an aluminum flywheel for the E16 engine for about $450. I don't think anyone knows about these or am I just the last to know?
They also listed a TWM manifold for twin throttle bodies or Werbers.
Just an FYI.
ROFL!! all discontinued. sorry! i just ran out and tried to order the manifold kit & header, NLA! the manifolds are still available thru Pierce Manifolds (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/) the E15/16 is $426.38 for a BARE manifold and $1140 for a complete kit w/ 2 40-DCOE carbs... a *little* pricey.
out of frustration, i may begin fabbing DCOE intakes & headers... anyone interested? manifolds would likely run $250 - $350 and headers (stainless) about $250... any interest at all?
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's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
why not save a bunch of money and lighten the stock flywheel?about a year ago i replaced the clutch in my e-16 powered b12.while it was apart i lightened the flywheel myself on a brake lathe.stock the flywheel was approx.19lbs. i got it down to about 13lbs. i was very pleased with the results it was well worth it.if anyone has to change their clutch i would definently lighten the flywheel while you have it apart.i was surprised how much it helped my car.there was no bad side effects at all.you will feel the difference the first time you nail it in first gear!
I think a little more can still be safely removed,i'm goingto try and take a little more off when i change over to the turbo motor.when removing weight from a flywheel take it from the outer diameter it willbe far more effective than removing it from the center and probably safer also.on the e-16 flywheel i removed material from the crankshaft side behind the ring gear.I dont know but looking at a stock flywheel then the lightened one I think I feel alot safer with the 13lbs of cast iron spinning in front of me rather than the 19lb piece!It's easier on the drivetrain also.as far as drilling holes I dont think i would try that on a stock flywheel,but ive seen aftermarket ones that have holes but they were designed that way from the start and are made from better material.with holes you will probably have an issue with balancing if not placed just right,when cut on a lathe it removes the material evenly all the way around.Right now i'm working on lightening up the load on the other end of the crank.The stock pulley/balancer is very heavy.i weighed one before i f i correctly recall it was 6 lbs. or more! the single groove factory pulley is no longer available that i know of.So i turned to my box of SBC parts.It looks like it willbe no problem for me(or almost anyone) to make an ultra light,underdrive crank pulley out of either the moroso aluminum alternator or crank pulley i have sitting around.im sure there are a bunch of different posibilities but thats what i have.I'll let you know what happens,it shouldbe good for a few horsepower somewhere along the rpm range.
So...where do you lighten the E16 flywheel? What areas can be safely sacrificed for the sake of weight without compromising strength for the sake of the clutch?
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Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!
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