I have 145,000k on my 1987 Coupe. Is it too late to go Syn. or do I stay Dino? Do I need to run the Mobil for 500 miles and then rechange/ Will the synthetic knock out all the crap that gives my motor compression. Is this a good or bad idea? I am new to this discussion so if already done. Let's do it again, plz.
Originally posted by Trefrog I have 145,000k on my 1987 Coupe.
so, 145,000k = 145 million miles right .
I changed my car to synthetic when i first got it about 2 years ago and haven't had any oil related problems, my car has 130k on it now and it's still running strong. I hear synthetic is not harmful to older motors, just my $0.02.
Location: Car is Richmond, VA but I'm in Orlando, FL
Posts: 450
I heard that the synthetic causes seals to swell relative to their conditioning to the organic oil causing leaks, but I've never tested that theory myself
__________________ Why did I pick such a slow car?
on brand new seals i goes really well on older one hummmm its a guess but a sure upgrade tought if it doesnt leak ... Btw never take the mobil 1 racing oil : 15w50... dont ask me how i know that...
__________________
Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
if you have the money for it then go ahead. general rule of thumb is not to on older engines because you aren' tgoing to prolong life by much cause damage has already been done....but you will prevent anyor much damage later and it works better with new rings and gaskets but doesnt matter much. if you want you can drain after 500 cause it'll get all the dirt and old oil left over but doesn't matter much cause synthetic and non mix just fine. as to mobil or castrol thats your decision. i prefer mobil 15w-50 but thats cause my chevy gets really hot if i do quick spurts of full throttle. and why would you say not to use it?? i wanna hear this. cause i just got a 87 pulsar and my first oil change i wanted to put mobil in it...but i'll probably do 5-30 instead cause its getting close to winter and i doubt that it will getter hotter than 200 degrees ever. cause if my mind serves me right 30 oil is good to 200 something ...am i right?
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
Castrol Magnatec(semi-syn) serves me well this far..no leaks or so ever... but there were a light rebuild.. no bearings were changed..
The only thing it is still really rough....only at high revs..
At idle it purrss nicely..
Originally posted by Trefrog I have 145,000k on my 1987 Coupe. Is it too late to go Syn. or do I stay Dino? Do I need to run the Mobil for 500 miles and then rechange/ Will the synthetic knock out all the crap that gives my motor compression. Is this a good or bad idea? I am new to this discussion so if already done. Let's do it again, plz.
uh... are you kidding me? i got my sentra with 86k... about 6 years, 120k miles, 3 headgaskets, a SHITLOAD of abuse, and about 500 gallons of pennzoil (10-30, 15-40, 20-50) later, i still didn't blow it up. i totaled it. wht the hell do you want? oil is oil. don't waste money on synthetic for a $500 car. start a "new car" fund, or a "new engine" fund, instead.
__________________
's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
Last edited by Lazarus_023 : Sep 21st, 2003 at 10:55 PM.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
go with 5w30 or 10w30.. never 15w50 on high pressure oild pump ... nice thing thouth i had about 100lbs of oil pressure at 4000rpm (at temp) LMAO... but the seal made of card board is not made for that much pressure
__________________
Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
Originally posted by Gsolo thats your problem...you used penzoil
did you miss the part where i said "still didn't blow it up..."? the E is (except for the head/head gasket) UNBELIEVEABLY durable. everything (and i mean EVERYTHING) mechanical on my B11 was replaced EXCEPT the rear wheel bearings and the ORIGINAL SHORT BLOCK.
__________________
's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
Last edited by Lazarus_023 : Sep 22nd, 2003 at 01:44 AM.
Originally posted by Crazy-Mart go with 5w30 or 10w30.. never 15w50 on high pressure oild pump ... nice thing thouth i had about 100lbs of oil pressure at 4000rpm (at temp) LMAO... but the seal made of card board is not made for that much pressure
rofl!! after the abuse my engine saw?! 20-50 was no sweat. in fact, it kept the oil press lite from flickering on hard right turns.
this ain't no precision machine here. you people make me laugh!!
THERE IS NO REASON TO WASTE $$ ON SYNTH ON A $500 CAR. PERIOD. END OF DISCUSSION.
__________________
's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket.
what's wrong with pennzoil? i've been using 10w30 since i bought the car and it's great... if there's something wrong with it i'll switch.. but what's wrong with it? btw i'm not going to switch to synthetic oil because it's useless.
__________________
Club Mofo's Paint Curator and Canadian Ambassador to OT
Screw the expensive synthetic, it's a low power motor. Run Castrol GTX. I used 10W-40 on my GA16i and kept 20psi@800rpm and 55psi@6000rpm with the motor fully warmed up. I will never run anything else since my Grand Prix. Stupid 2.8L drank up and wore out every oil I used, except 10W-40 Castrol GTX. She had 168K (all original) and it saw 6000rpm several times a day without the bottom end giving out. (GM 2.8L MPFI's are notorious for this)
Bottom line, forget the synthtic, use the money you would have spent on it to get other parts you may need.
BTW, Pennzoil users normally end up doing this>
__________________
1996 Cutlass Supreme SL (not stock) 1 of 2 CS's w/ Grand Prix HUD and Dash!! 1990 ASC/McLaren Turbo Grand Prix Project Car
Mods - Custom Catback w/ Dual Flowmasters, Custom 3" FWI, 17" ADR Rims, SilverStar Conversion, Grand Prix HUD Swap, Grand Prix Dash, GMPP Trailing Arms, Custom Rear Coilovers, 95 Z34 22mm Rear Sway Bar, LQ1 34MM Front Sway Bar, Tubular Adjustable Lateral Links, Blue LED Interior Lighting, Carputer w/ Lilliput 7" Touchscreen, Kicker ZX200.4 Amp, HP Tuners MPVI Tuned http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...wserwerwer.jpg
Penzoil is a lesser quality crude oil. most people say it all comes from the same place but it doesn't. I've had penzoil in a car before then next oil change went to Castrol GTX and you can tell the difference when driving. and if you have under 100k miles you can probably get away with switching to synthetic, the only problem with using synthetic on older motors is it tends to clean all the crap and junk the the old oil leaves behind and then it clogs the oil passages and pump and filter leaving if not a blown eninge at least a very big mess to try and clean up. by the way castrol GTX is probably the best dino oil ever. but if you ever do a rebuild stick synthetic in it after cause then it should be all cleaned up and ok and synthetic will make your car last longer from day one.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
btw, if you really really really really wanted to switch to synthetic..do it slowly over a period of time. like do an oil change and put one quart of synthetic in with the rest of the oil then do an oil change again at least within the 3000miles and just slowly add more synthetic to the mixture. but even doing that you can still fudge things up
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21