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Go Back   NissanForums.com :: Nissan Forum > Nissan Models > Sentra, Pulsar, NX, B14 200SX > E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines
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E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines Engine Discussion: 1982-1990 Sentra/Pulsar

       
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Old Jun 19th, 2003, 01:00 AM   #16 (permalink)
Crazy-Mart
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that would be the best bet... im pretty sure nissan still got those somewhere lying on they're shelf too ... might just be question of asking !
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Old Jun 19th, 2003, 07:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
blownb310
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy-Mart
that would be the best bet... im pretty sure nissan still got those somewhere lying on they're shelf too ... might just be question of asking !
***** Yes, but what I had in mind was a little cheaper. Just remove two phillips head screws and you might find one in your pocket at the JY.
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Old Jun 19th, 2003, 04:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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that happens to me all the time, i don't know how that crap gets in my pockets!
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Old Jun 19th, 2003, 10:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
gspot
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I have a spare E16i intake setup that I pulled apart tonight and without the mixture heater, the manifold opening is about 52mm. I may just get rid of the mixture heater part and use the spacer part.

I'm going to the JY this weekend and get the GA16i TB and start the installation process, so this thread may get a lot longer.
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Old Jun 20th, 2003, 07:11 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally posted by gspot
I'm going to the JY this weekend and get the GA16i TB and start the installation process, so this thread may get a lot longer.
***** Excellent! Now we've got two people working on this. I hope the snags encountered so far will be unravelled soon.
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Old Jun 21st, 2003, 05:11 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Allllllllllllrighty then! I got the car running with the 14 psi FPR but not in the most ideal of places; it's delaying the response of the vaccume, also probably causing slight lean conditions.
Is there any way to remove the spring entirely from the FPR that's not in use to allow the fuel unrestricted flow through it? That would probably help a great deal.
As it is, the car warmed up is idling at 700 rpm, and it idles at 1100 roughly until warm. When the throttle is lifted, it dips down all the way to 400 rpm or lower and dies other times. Before the engine is warmed up, the throttle raises quickly, but takes forever to drop down when pedal is released.
I've revved it up to 4500 so far and it sounds fierce! The throttle responds very quickly also. Any ideas for adjusting or tweaking that would make things a bit smoother?

Can't wait to get all the bumps flattened out in this swap. She needs to be free on the roads again!
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Old Jun 21st, 2003, 10:34 AM   #22 (permalink)
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you could probably manage to put some kind of permanent vacuum on it ?? wath about getting it cutted and welded some fitting on it to have one remotly mounted else where ???... cuz if you got the 2 inline, you better have the 15psi in the last spot between the injector and return line ... cuz if you got the inverse, youll be getting about 30lbs of pressure with slow recharge rate bc of the 15psi regulator before it....
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Old Jun 21st, 2003, 11:57 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Okay, here's a better description of what I've done.
I welded 2 fuel barbs onto the 14psi FPR.
I put a brass 'T' fitting before the fuel in on the TB.
The gas gets to the injector and STOPS at the 34psi FPR.
The excess pressure is bled off through the other FPR.
As it is, the 34psi FPR does NOTHING. That is why I wanted to 'gut' it per-say, so I can put the 14psi FPR in the line after the non-functioning 34psi FPR.
Hope this clears up any confusion..
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Old Jun 21st, 2003, 09:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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nice trick !! you got around it nicely
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Old Jun 22nd, 2003, 10:12 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I got my TB today and I was surprised at the number of differences between the E16i and GA16 i versions even though they look similar. Just so I don't have to reinvent the wheel, can you answer a few questions for me:

1. What did you do about the two hoses that connect to the manifold that are larger than the E16i version?
2. There is hose that runs from one of the metal elbows where the hoses in question #1 connect, and it goes up to the "wax type fast idle cam" setup; what did you do with the hose that comes out the back-side of this thing?
3. How did you handle the GA16i's AAC Valve/FICD Soleniod Valve/Idle-up Solenoid Vale arrangement?
4. There is a vacuum line coming out near the TPS on the GA16i TB; it appears that the E16 has a similar vacuum line coming out the other side near the throttle linkage; how did you handle this?

I was thinking of taking the E16I TB to the machine shop and have them bore it out to fit the GA16i throttle plate and avoid all the hassles of the other stuff. What do you think?
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Old Jun 23rd, 2003, 08:32 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Okay, good to see I'm not alone in my journey
As for the questions...

1 & 2:
I just looped the coolant line back to itself, none goes to the TB. It's a LOT easier than finding a way to connect the extra line somewhere else.

3:
You'd be supprised at this, but the ISC actually fits right where the AAC bolts up. You just need to widen the screw holes in the ISC with a round needle file (You need to work it evenly for it to match right, I ran into no trouble with it..) and get replacement screws. (I've got the measurements to the right screws somewhere, I'll dig them up ASAP for ya..) Just cut out a gasket to match and it fits perfectly.

4:
Both serve the same purpose; hook it up to what it was hooked up to on the E16.

As for boring it out...
I would completely agree for doing that. No idea on the cost.. but as it is, regulating the fuel pressure makes this swap a pain in the @$$. That's what's kept me working on it so long.

I have no regrets blazing this trail, no matter how slowly and painfully it becomes.

Hopefully others will follow, smoothing the bumps, and this will become a common modification

Long Live the E16!
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Old Jun 24th, 2003, 09:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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What kind of FPR are you using? None of my catalogs have one that will do 14 psi.
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Old Jun 25th, 2003, 01:32 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm using the FPR off of the E16 TB. I welded 2 barbs onto it for the fuel lines and T'ed it before the fuel line in on the TB. It's not perfect, by any means. It would be much better to disable the spring in the 34 psi FPR and then feed through the 14 psi FPR. Fuel delivery would be MUCH more consistant.

I myself am still searching to no avail for a 'real' 14 psi FPR.
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Old Jun 25th, 2003, 09:12 PM   #29 (permalink)
gspot
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Duh, you said that before and I missed it, sorry.

I have been slowly working on my TB, specifically removing/installing the ISC (the screws were stuck tight and took some persuasion). You were right, it should screw right in place, except I need longer screws since the GA16i screws were too short to screw the ISC in place.

As I was looking at the GA16i and E16i TBs, it occurred to me that you might be able to remove the GA16i FPR and just screw a hose barb in that location, although it may require some enlarging of the hole (I couldn't get mine off tonight, more stuck screws). As an alternate, completely remove it and right above it, in the same spot as the E16i TB fuel inlet, there is a lead plug that you could drill out and put a hose barb in and then block off the regular FPR inlet.

Are you using the mixture heater that sandwiches between the TB and the manifold? What about the TPS?

If all goes well, I should have mine installed this weekend, assuming I can overcome the FPR issue.

More later.
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Old Jun 26th, 2003, 10:05 AM   #30 (permalink)
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When getting new screws for the ISC, make sure you bring both ones from the AAC and the ISC; the length of the ISC and the width of the AAC. Be sure the threading is the same; I almost stripped the little fitting display at the hardware store (No, it's not tight after 3 turns, it's eating the threads lol)

I didn't think of putting a barb directly onto the TB; Stupidity I suppose. I'm going to look deeper into that soon, I think I've got some O2 sensor issues at the moment. Sounds like a MUCH better idea though, then gutting the FPR.

No, I removed the mix heater all together and shortened the TB bolts. The 52mm opening was too tempting for me to pass up.
Unfortunatly, I had to chop some of the air filter housing (the long part that sticks towards the radiator) to get it to fit properly. A spacer would be MUCH better for it.

The TPS I used from my E16. It bolts up fine.

Great to see I'm not alone I love these engines..
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I Got ripped off $330 by Daniel Reyes, aka 'oldschoolricer' aka 'Nismo87r' Read all about it.
http://www.nissanforums.com/off-topi...ml#post1207422

Last edited by WhiteFox : Jun 26th, 2003 at 10:08 AM.
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