87 Pulsar (E16i) ignition FIXED!!

nastynissan · Feb 27th, 2003, 01:57 AM

Alright as several of you know Ive had some interesting problems here lately. Well their fixed. Heres a HOW, WHAT, WHY on what I did and what I learne that the Books didnt tell me. HOPEFULLY this will help someone.

The dotted wires are your power wires to the coil.

1. is the secondary power for the coil. Runs to the coil transistor
2. is where it goes into the coil supply connector
3. is the secondary power wire as it goes into the coil transistor
4. is the secondary power wire from transistor to Coil
5. is the Primary power for the Coil. 12v+ with Ign on
6. being the coil transistor.

Now then I did this out of pure frustration and had backup ECU and other parts incase...Ignition ON. Tested the Primary power to coil...12v good. Tested all Grounds.....good. Checked power output of coil.....12v good. With engine turning over... 12v....not good.....no SPARKY. Checked secondary power at connector ...nothing, with engine turning over....NOTHING. HMMM. Disconnected secondary power at connector. Ran a jumper from the battery to the secondary power on the coil side.... MAJOR arching heard from distributor cap!!!!.Probably not good for the cap and rotary but tells me the coil is GOOD. Reconnect the seconday wire to harness, and ran jumper wire again with everything connected. POP!!!!! A relay on the otherside of the Engine sounds like it just exploded. (Still dont know which one). Tested the circuit again and Guess WHAT.....The secondary power works. jumps my gauge to about 6v....Interesting NO?!!?? Tested coil output with engine turning over and buried my gauge...OH YEA! Set the volt meter to 1000v and tested again....this time it starts about 1/3 of the way up and keeps climbing. YES, YES,YES.... Hooked everything back up...hit the switch, and Vroom, spitter, sputter, die. But we got SPARKY. Ended up with a bad injector also. But i soaked the injector overnight in a glass I sprayed full of brake fluid and the next day when installed it worked fine. To test once removed... Take some carb or brake cleaner in a can. Using the tube (carefull not to get it in your eyes) put the tube in the hole on the end of the injector and SPRAY. If fluid comes out the screen its good (or at least it will work) If the fluid all goes back out the hole...go buy an injector. Power to the fuel injector can be tested with a volt/ohm meter as long as it has a 150Mamp setting.... With the engine turning over mine went about 1/2inch up on the gauge. BTW I used a $10 Radio Shack Volt Ohm meter for everything. I hope this helps someone. If I remember anything else Ill put it here later today....

In case the pics dont come down.. http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.a...lbum_id=133546
Pics 9 and 10 are the ones

nastynissan · Feb 27th, 2003, 02:22 AM

Okay what am I doing wrong with the pics???

RiceBox · Feb 27th, 2003, 10:50 AM

Congrats on getting the car running again. Sorry, I couldn't get your pics to work

nastynissan · Feb 27th, 2003, 01:07 PM

Well thanks for trying. At least the link works....The pics are there for anyone to look at. If anyone has questions feel free to e-mail or PM me. ????Know of a better place to host pics from ????

Figures... the site I was using supported hosting when I signed up but quit last night!!! Ah well we got it now.

electricpulsar · Feb 15th, 2004, 06:07 AM

Great story and may apply to me. I have an 87 Pulsar with an E16i and have pretty much determined that I have a bad E.C.C.S./ECU. The key was left in "ON" for more than an hour and when I found it there was smoke coming from the ECU under the seat. When I turned off and removed the key the ignition lights stayed on. If I unplug the power lead from the E.C.C.S./ECU the problem goes away (though obviously the car won't start). I'vetested all the relays and they appear to be working fine. Soooo I'm looking for another ECU. Can you help?? Electricpulsar

Quote:

Originally Posted by nastynissan

Alright as several of you know Ive had some interesting problems here lately. Well their fixed. Heres a HOW, WHAT, WHY on what I did and what I learne that the Books didnt tell me. HOPEFULLY this will help someone.

The dotted wires are your power wires to the coil.

1. is the secondary power for the coil. Runs to the coil transistor
2. is where it goes into the coil supply connector
3. is the secondary power wire as it goes into the coil transistor
4. is the secondary power wire from transistor to Coil
5. is the Primary power for the Coil. 12v+ with Ign on
6. being the coil transistor.

Now then I did this out of pure frustration and had backup ECU and other parts incase...Ignition ON. Tested the Primary power to coil...12v good. Tested all Grounds.....good. Checked power output of coil.....12v good. With engine turning over... 12v....not good.....no SPARKY. Checked secondary power at connector ...nothing, with engine turning over....NOTHING. HMMM. Disconnected secondary power at connector. Ran a jumper from the battery to the secondary power on the coil side.... MAJOR arching heard from distributor cap!!!!.Probably not good for the cap and rotary but tells me the coil is GOOD. Reconnect the seconday wire to harness, and ran jumper wire again with everything connected. POP!!!!! A relay on the otherside of the Engine sounds like it just exploded. (Still dont know which one). Tested the circuit again and Guess WHAT.....The secondary power works. jumps my gauge to about 6v....Interesting NO?!!?? Tested coil output with engine turning over and buried my gauge...OH YEA! Set the volt meter to 1000v and tested again....this time it starts about 1/3 of the way up and keeps climbing. YES, YES,YES.... Hooked everything back up...hit the switch, and Vroom, spitter, sputter, die. But we got SPARKY. Ended up with a bad injector also. But i soaked the injector overnight in a glass I sprayed full of brake fluid and the next day when installed it worked fine. To test once removed... Take some carb or brake cleaner in a can. Using the tube (carefull not to get it in your eyes) put the tube in the hole on the end of the injector and SPRAY. If fluid comes out the screen its good (or at least it will work) If the fluid all goes back out the hole...go buy an injector. Power to the fuel injector can be tested with a volt/ohm meter as long as it has a 150Mamp setting.... With the engine turning over mine went about 1/2inch up on the gauge. BTW I used a $10 Radio Shack Volt Ohm meter for everything. I hope this helps someone. If I remember anything else Ill put it here later today....

In case the pics dont come down.. http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.a...lbum_id=133546
Pics 9 and 10 are the ones