Part 2 is here!
Since I didn't take any pictures of the pre-assembly, I'll just have
to take a picture of the finished product and label all the stuff :P
Damn, the water choke model O_O"
You're gonna need the electric choke assembly otherwise, I'm sure,
you're gonna run into problems once you get to the tuning....
Haha, 7 times?! I gave up on the carb after it vapor locked on me in traffic
and having to tune it 10,000 times before then xO
Pre Install
Bascially, follow the instructions given to you by Weber of assembling the
adapter plates. What you are going to need is
-Threadlocker
-Permatex Form-a-Gasket (brown gooey stuff)
-Proper sized hex keys and wrenches
The last gasket can either by installed directly onto the adapter assembly
or on the carb. I choose the carb just to be safe.
Pre Install part 2
This part is for the carb. Looking at it, you'll notice that Weber wanted
you to have through the trouble of having to mutilate your throttle cables,
so it would work on the provided "new" throttle plate.
This part confused me of the longest time...
pretty much take off all the crap on the throttle assembly and throw on
the original throttle plate.
Universal carb my ass.
THIS IS ALSO VERY IMPORTANT!!!
You will notice that when you try to manually open the throttle, that the
"cable track shield" catches on the (i think) fast idle connection.
To solve this problem, I used 3 washers.
Webers provided washers do not work -_-" So you gotta pick up some.
Universal carb my ass, once again.
Be sure to check again to make sure nothing is catching.
Now its time for the electric choke connection.
In your case, jsanders....you don't have it yet so...read on
To back to the car and ,if you haven't already, disconnect the wires
which originally hooked up to the idle cutoff solenoid and electric choke.
Bascially cut off the idle cutoff solenoid at its connection, so u have tons of
wire to work with, do the same with the electic choke wire.
Now, for the electric choke, get yourself some saudering materials and
connect the wire to the plate on the new electric choke.
*if you have no clue what the hell i'm talking about, look at the "original"
electric choke connection metal plate....thing and copy what you see on the new choke.
Since I was hoping I wouldn't need the DGEV cutoff solenoid, I didn't order one -_-"
My hopes were crushed after hearing my car run and spatter abit after I finally got
it running and stuff. So I'm gonna have to order one now.
I'm hoping the install for the solenoid is the same as electric choke,
but its gonna be a bitch now since my carb is already installed -_-"
More on this once I get it...
Part 3!
Installing the carb!
Once again, follow the instruction provided by Weber, and all should be well.
ANOTHER SUPER IMPORTANT THING YOU NEED TO DO!
Plug all lines you do not need with superglue!
This includes the fuel return line, the canister line, all the feedback lines etc.
Just be sure not to superglue shut the vaccum advance line.
Don't disconect the distrubtor lines, it'll still run fine if you leave it hooked up the
way it was left.
Secondly, now for the hot air injection line and the white thingy located at the back
of the engine...(the thing that plugged into back of the original carb pan)
I plugged these using superglue and cardboard.
Yea I know it sounds stupid and looks like it too, but so far I've had no problems with this.
Ran the car for a good 30 minutes and all the plugged lines stayed plugged.
Now that the new sexy carb is sitting on the new gaskets, bolt it down.
Make sure the throttle plate is in the right place.
Since Weber is a complete group of morons, they forgot to send me the new fuel
hose.
The correct size is 5/16".
2 feet is more then enough and leaves lots of slack.
Remove the original fuel hose for the fuel pump.
Make sure you're removing the delivery line, not the fuel filter line.
Clamp down both ends nice and tight.
Connect the electric choke and idle cutoff back.
Now you're ready for some fun.
Grab your bud and every carbs friend, Carb cleaner. (or gas if you feel dangerous)
Spray/tons of carb cleaner/gas into the new carb. I shouldn't have to get
to technical about this part so..yea.
Now have your friend give her!
BAM! the car should be running now! Whoop whoop!
Just remember to make sure the car doesn't stall out by spraying some
cleaner/gas into the carb to keep her alive.
Wait for the car to warm up to optimal running temp and
read the instructions provided from Weber to tune the carb.
*I had to tune mine without a working tach...it sucks...ALOT*
After you finish that part, connect the kickdown cable to throttle plate
and check the idle for all gears and set to factory settings if needed.
This is obviously only if you have a auto.
Connect the air cleaner, etc. and check everyting again.
Thats about it, the car should be running fine and dandy.
The last problem I have to solve is how to hook up the gas pedal cable to
the new carb....as the "universal" cable holder thing doesn't want to hook
up the to back of the carb...probably have to sauder it directly to the carb I think.
Pretty much you want the gas cable to be in the exact same way it was on the
original carb. More on that once I get the time to solve it.
Wish my tach was working........*sigh* Really makes tuning the new carb
a bitch lol. Any questions will be promptly answered, and good luck!
I am so proud of myself, did all this myself =)
Best DIY project ever, plus I learned a shit load of stuff too.
I have a feeling this carb is going to spin the tires abit when I can floor it ^___^
~Chris
