I have an '86 Sentra wagon with the E15 motor, automatic transmission, and the famous Hitachi DFE2832-14 carb. I ordered the Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, it's due to arrive some time tomorrow. Bolting the new one on seems rather straight-forward, but I'm just a little concerned about what vacuum lines and such need to be plugged up, since the Weber doesn't have much of anything in the way of emission-related sensors, etc on it. Also, since the car has an auto tranny and a cable connecting it to the old carb's throttle lever, is there any way to adapt it to the 32/36? I work in a repair shop, but don't really have much experience with carb related issues. Maybe these issues have been covered in this forum before. Any help that anyone can provide would be most appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Just a quick follow-up to my previous post. I got the new carb bolted on to the intake manifold, connected everything as specified in the installation guide, and the car still won't fire up. Gave it a quick shot of carb cleaner down the the barrels and it sputtered for a bit, then died, so it has spark. Fuel pump is good because I can see fuel being fed into the barrels when the throttle lever is turned by hand. I don't know what else I could've missed along the way... am I supposed to plug every hose that was connected to the old feedback carb and is no longer being used? Or are the lines supposed to be re-routed some other way? If anyone can help or provide advice, thank you.
well... you cant leave the lines open. if theyre vacuum lines, you now have a massive vacuum leak if thats the case. youre not immediately flooding are you?
I opened up the top of the carb and made sure everything was in order. The float level is okay and the needle valves look like they are functioning properly. Just a little bit of fuel sitting in the bottom of the bowl, but not enough to make the carb flood. So now I think I'm back to the vacuum issue. With regard to the lines that had previously been hooked up to the old carb, do I just plug them up and push them aside? Or do they have to be re-routed in some way? The new carb doesn't have all the ports for the vacuum lines, except for the vacuum advance port, which I don't know what to do with, as my car doesn't have a vacuum advance distributor, it's electronic.
you can cap the plug for the vacuum advance. as for the others, what all do they do? do you need to pass emissions where you are at? if you dont, id plug all of the lines except the ones for the power brakes - if you have them, and the one for the vents - if they are vacuum operated. are you running egr?
The other vacuum lines in question go to various things, such as the vacuum piston, the idle speed control actuator, the secondary throttle valve diaphragm assembly, and the throttle positioner, at least that's what my vacuum diagram tells me. Yes, the car does have an EGR valve and power brakes. And unfortunately, I do have to pass emissions as I'm near Seattle, WA. In fact, I have to pass the test by the end of this month in order to renew my car license.
Just plug all the lines expect for the one that goes to the distrutor.
Also, how did u remove the old plastic gasket (the black one with the plug in the back) off the intake manifold?
I can help you with the throttle hook up once i get my camera back
Last edited by PulseMan : Dec 17th, 2006 at 04:24 PM.
Just plug all the lines expect for the one that goes to the distrutor.
Also, how did u remove the old plastic gasket (the black one with the plug in the back) off the intake manifold?
I can help you with the throttle hook up once i get my camera back
on my pulsar the plastic gasket with the plug on the back just simply lifts off. if its been on for years take a screwdriver and try to pry it off, it'll come. once its loose it just lifts.
Went back to work on the Sentra again today, cranking the motor and draining the battery in the process. Thanks to my '93 Altima GXE, I was able to jump the battery and finally get my Sentra fired up, but still with a lot of work to do, such as finding an effective method of plugging up the brass pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the driver's side of what WAS the old air filter housing. Yes, that pipe gets very hot and spews exhaust gases all over the engine compartment when it's wide open. For those who have upgraded to Weber carbs, is it normal for the engine to run at 4000rpm when cold? Seems a bit excessive to me, but that's what it was doing when I started it.
Does anyone have any ides for what I can do to attach both the throttle cable and the automatic tranny cable to the new carb? The linkage kit that came with the Weber didn't exactly work in my favor, so I'm looking for other suggestions.
On a side note, this car also has a cooling system issue. The electric fan doesn't always turn on at the proper time. When it does, it will run for only a second or two, shut off, turn on again, off again, repeatedly maybe five or six times, without ever really doing any effective cooling. Could the motor be giving out? Fan switch or wiring? Coolant temp sensor? Anybody's best guess would be helpful. Thanks.
Answer to the throttle plate hookup problem:
READING THIS WILL MAKE YOU WANT TO PUT YOUR HEAD THROUGH A COUPLE OF 2x4's, as I DID. (expect i pondered for a week trying to figure out what to do till one morning lol)
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. USE THE ORIGINAL THROTTLE PLATE OFF THE HITACHI CARB!
DIRTY MOTHER FITS LIKE A GLOVE! Just remember which way it originally was hooked up.
I didn't so I can't tell which side is the one facing "outside" and in turn, can't remember which "cable track" goes to the tranny cable.
~Of course the tranny cable is shorter so it goes in the back DUH~
BTW, I don't even have my carb on yet as the threadlocker needs to dry and I still to finish plugging the old feedback lines/etc.
So I'm bound to run into some problems along the way. I'll be working on it again about this time tomorrow so I'll be updating as I move along.
POSSIBLE answers to the hot air injection tubes, as I believe they are called
1-Plug the end of the pipe with something or the end of the rubber tube with something
2-Actually remove the exhaust manifold shield and disconnect the whole pipe and put a bolt in its place.
Personally if I had the tools to do 2 I would. But I don't >_< not to mention I'm not even there yet.
Answer to the cooling fan problem:
Try going to your local wreckers and buy/steal yourself the same fan and see
how that runs when you hook it up to your car. If it runs perfectly good, its just
your old fan crapping out. If not....well I hope you're lucky if its minor.
4000rpm cold? should be atleast below 1000....as my Hitachi ran at that speed.
Atleast until it warmed up and dropped to 800ish (700 in Drive)
Yes its a performance carb but I assume it has to run at a DECENT QUIET SPEED. Identical to the carb we're getting rid of.
Last edited by PulseMan : Dec 20th, 2006 at 01:18 AM.
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