are there any known problems with stock coils? cause i got missfire or no fire at all while driving, and the cap and rotor and wires have been changed. e16s 1986 pulsar nx.
probably going to change it anyway. still stock coil. 20 years old.
sorta idles smooth for about 30 - 45 secs in the morning, then it idles violently jumpy up and down black smoke out the pip for about 30 secs then smooths out then later on it'll stall.
driving down the street it'll start to misfire around 2200 rpm - 3200 rpm, give it a punch of gas and it'll stop misfiring and go. same rpm range every time.
Several things it could be. It could be the coil, but not likely... If it were the actual coil you would drop spark across the RPM range. It could be the pickup inside of the distributor. That seems to be a more common issue. Best way to tell if it's coil or distributor is when it starts dropping ignition check the tach. If there IS a tach signal and you don't loose RPM's, then it's the coil. If there is NO tach signal, then it's usually the distributor. Now, since you say there is alot of black smoke, I would check the O2 sensor or the throttle position sensors. Since you say it's the smoke is black that means the car is running rich. Since you say it's the same RPM every time... well... only a couple things can effect it. You can go ahead and change the coil if you want... just sayin.
Hmm
Dist module usually fails when the engine gets hot, engine dies
You wait for it to cool, and it can be started again
Its handy to have a spare around
Peace
PD Sounds like a fuel problem to me Keep us posted
Several things it could be. It could be the coil, but not likely... If it were the actual coil you would drop spark across the RPM range. It could be the pickup inside of the distributor. That seems to be a more common issue. Best way to tell if it's coil or distributor is when it starts dropping ignition check the tach. If there IS a tach signal and you don't loose RPM's, then it's the coil.
The tach works around that point and I don't lose RPM'S when it starts to fire rough. its just that I can't gain rpms unless i floor it.
Quote:
If there is NO tach signal, then it's usually the distributor. Now, since you say there is alot of black smoke, I would check the O2 sensor or the throttle position sensors. Since you say it's the smoke is black that means the car is running rich.
Only has some black smoke in the cold mornings. Idles so rough between 400 and 900 rpm every second or so. Smooths right out in about a min then starts to fire rough at 2000-3000rpm whether in gear or park.
And I suppost people don't know that the canadian models don't have any o2 sensors or ecu's or anything. Emission laws aren't strict enough.
My 87 sentra was an electronically aided (impaired) carburetor us version
There was no way to get decent idle and some oomph
Til I got a centrifugal advance dist + mechanical carb
Car runs great since then
Peace
well i did some testing today with the new multimeter i just bought and my factory shop manual from nissan:
1: Battery Voltage (no load) - 12.37V (11.5-12.5V)
2: Battery Cranking Voltage - 11.3V (Greater than 9.6V)
3: Secondary Wiring - Wires 1,2,3,4 around 600 - 700 ohms (below 30,000 ohms)
4: Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit - 10,000 ohms (7,300 to 11,000 ohms)
5: Power Supply Circuit - 12.37V (11.5-12.5V)
6: Power Supply Circuit (Cranking) - 10.4V (less than 1 volt below battery cranking and above 8.6V)
7: Ignition Primary Circuit - 12.37V (11.5-12.5V)
8: Ignition Coil Primary Circuit - 1.4 ohms (1.04 to 1.27)
9: I.C Unit Ground Circuit - 83mV/0.083V (0.5 volts or less)
Number 4 and number 8 kinda back up my theory of a bad coil. Just a note. I usually couldn't get a constant reading for those tests on the coil. Kinda different every time. Maybe its this new automatic multimer. dunno. but those are the readings i got.
what i haven't checked is the reluctor / stator air gap. any tricks of getting it to line up to the stator to measure it? should i just pull it out and move it around then check the gap? also what effect would the gap have if it isn't correct
also for other people reading this, i did some research and i suppose the term isn't really "misfiring" its more like "cutting out"
Hey I got some input, I don't think it is the coil, or distributer cap, I would be Willing to bet it was the points out of adjustment, or dirty, There should be a good section in the FSM going over how to clean the points, and adjust them.
And for those others reading this he has a 1986 Pulsar with the E16s, which does not have TPS or O2 sensor. The 1987 and 1988 Pulsars had either the E16S, CA16DE or E16I which had those, but canada uses different emissions stuff from the US.
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89 Sentra owner 9 years 205,000 miles and counting!
Last edited by bob89sentra : Oct 10th, 2006 at 09:32 AM.
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