yup. thats the system i got. only thing electrical on the carb is just the choke heater. otherwise its all mechanical. i got the centrifugal and vaccum controls also.
i will pick up a new coil, because even if it isn't the problem it looks like it'll die soon with the readings.
I had a very similar problem. While driving the car just lost power and started cutting out at around 2000 to 3000 rpm. In my case it was the plug wires. So i replaced the plug wires, Distributor cap and rotor. Everything at 100% now.
I had a very similar problem. While driving the car just lost power and started cutting out at around 2000 to 3000 rpm. In my case it was the plug wires. So i replaced the plug wires, Distributor cap and rotor. Everything at 100% now.
haven't had a chance to put a new coil on yet (worked late last night) but i changed the wires, cap and rotor a couple of months ago. Today the wires test out to be 600 - 700 ohms resistance, nothin like the 40,000 i was getting before. The only thing i'm concerned about is the rotor. The right half of the contact on the rotor looks like its being burned away a bit. The dizzy cap shows no wear.
well, i went out and bought a performance coil, put some old champion copper spark plugs in (my NGK's were black and carboned up) cleaned the rotor, new air filter, adjusted the stator air gap, nothing seemed to help.
UNTIL...
today while driving it I accidently hit the gearshift into neutral, then slid it into drive immediately, made a huge jump, and it seems to run perfect now. don't know what i did, but i think i will return that performance coil and get my money back. doesn't make a difference.
still kinda idles like a load of crap in the morning
after about 30 secs of turning it on after sitting overnight, the idle jumps up and don from about 500 - 700 for about 45 secs then after that it smooths right out.
sounds like its running on 2 cylinders actually, til it warms up. ignition module? the hose i have missing from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner (not air induction, the hot air duct)
Last edited by jsanders : Oct 15th, 2006 at 08:51 PM.
still kinda idles like a load of crap in the morning
after about 30 secs of turning it on after sitting overnight, the idle jumps up and don from about 500 - 700 for about 45 secs then after that it smooths right out.
sounds like its running on 2 cylinders actually, til it warms up. ignition module? the hose i have missing from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner (not air induction, the hot air duct)
Well... beings that it's a carb, have you checked the choke adjustment? I know my old ford ran like CRAP when the choke went out till the engine warmed up a couple of degrees... it can't atomize the fuel properly in cold conditions so your car uses an electric heater to heat the incoming air to help with that. If it doesn't work that you'll get black smoke out the tail pipe because the fuel is in dropplets and not mixed properly with the air... black soot on spark plugs
gosh darn it! the heater honeycomb thing under the carb was disconnected.
and update on the coil. when i put the old coil back on, the car started to run sluggish around 2000 rpm again on the way home from the auto parts store. good thing they wouldn't let me return that coil (used electrical part), cause it seems like the coil was the original problem all along.
thanks for your help everyone! now gotta save some money for that weber 32/36.
my next topic soon will be which jets to use in it. someone here did the conversion before, how did it work? who was it?
Linear Mode
