ok, im new to the board. i recently purchased an 88 sentra, with the e16i, at least thats what im told it is . i race on oval dirt tracks in the upstate ny area. i race anywhere from 30-100 laps. the car is stock, but is stripped. i need some links for go-fast parts, but i gotta be able to sorta hide them. the class i race in is a basically stock class. my first mods i was thinking of doing are the following...
k/n, performance plugs/wires, remove exhaust, go 2.25 inch piping from where the cat used to be, advance timing(will this work with 110 octane?) any other mods i could do for a lil more power.
now suspension im just gonna get some kyb shocks, and run some blizzaks for tires. can i use a STB from a b13? thanx
Here are some part numbers for different engine parts.
Nismo Euro Camshaft 13020-25m00
Nismo Hi Performance Head 11041-17m03
Nismo Single groove crank pulley (cant use P/S or A/C) 12303-
11m00
Nismo High Volume Oil Pump 15010-17m00
Nismo Head Gasket 11044-rr200
You can call the Nissan dealer with these part numbers to get prices, they probably wont be cheap, but this is most of the stuff from the NISMO catalog for the E16I engine.
Hope This Helps.
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Scars Heal, Glory Fades
All we're left with are the memorys we made.
And no, currently there are NO STBs that will bolt directly to our cars. I think somone said a B13 would fit with some modifications (cutting) of the hood braces.
Also, stick with NGK Plugs, the Bosch +4 Plugs are a joke in our cars.
You can mess aroung with the Throttle Position sensor a little bit, it wont give you more power, but quicker throttle response.
Oh, and welcome to the Boards
__________________
Scars Heal, Glory Fades
All we're left with are the memorys we made.
Yes, you can advance the timing with that kind of octane. Significantly I'd guess. You can also have the head shaved to raise the compression. I have iridium spark plugs in my E16, and they work wonderfully. Some people bawk at the $7 each price, but think about it, these are the sole reason your engine fires, don't be cheap on them. Besides, they're designed to last FOREVER!
I also highly recommend that EURO spec cam that little mentioned. Nobody would notice a different cam, especially one that mild, it's designed for street cars, just not up to US emissions standards I guess.
Oh, and yes, an STB from a B13 will work. I've also heard that the brakes off a SE-R B13 will work on a B12, if you have 14" or larger rims. Which means you can get the crossdrilled high performance rotors that are commonly available for those cars.
Are you allowed to run headers in your class? If you are, I have been seeing some pace setter headers for E series engines on Ebay, goin for about $180.. But I'm guessing that since you said you wanted to appear stock, headers are out of the question.
Can you do ram-air intake? That'd make a little difference.
Good luck with your races, bring back some trophies!
It's stickied to the top of the forum for easy access!!
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I had a '93 Sentra Classic (B12)
Mom's got an '03 Altima 2.5S
Dad had a '98 Sentra GXE
Current "rides": 2000 Kona Caldera "Callie", 1996 Specialized Hard Rock "Betty"
Originally posted by UnaClocker Yes, you can advance the timing with that kind of octane. Significantly I'd guess. You can also have the head shaved to raise the compression.
***** E16's don't like excess timing. Here's a clip from another thread I posted: "Here's a great tip I learned from Dave also: For a real hot "E" engine, the total amount of ignition timing you'll want is ONLY 18-20 degrees. This is not very much, compared to other engines, but the shape and the small 17.9cc chambers on the FI or Turbo heads, dictate this. Again, I never would have tried that little timing, unless Dave Rebello said so. He dyno's all kinds of E-series race engines, and is in "the know." Thank you Dave!"
Also, you should not shave E16 heads for compression. A-series heads yes, E-seires no. BTW, I have every part mentioned in LittlebittaContact's post for sale, and I live in upstate NY. PM me if you want to go fast and hide it.
Even better, check out: http://www.nissanforums.com/showthre...threadid=12480
Now, that's what you need!
Originally posted by UnaClocker Ahh, ok, just to satisfy my curiosity.. Why shouldn't you shave an E head?
*****It clearly says in the Motorsport catalog, "E-series heads should never be cut to raise compression. Compression should always be raised by the use of alternate pistons." You really should order a catalog. There is a wealth of good info in it, not jusy parts for sale. Additionally, if you shave the head on any OHC engine, the timing belt/chain
becomes too long, and cam timing retards itself. One other thing most people don't know, if you advance the ignition timing on an E-series engine, it will almost always start pinging. They are very sensitive to that. Most other Nissan engines aren't, so don't be fooled by reading how 5 more degrees of advanced helped the GA16DE and SR20DE's out. It won't work on an E. Its a completely different animal.
Hi blown
You would suggest 10° btdc initial advance and 18 - 20° total advance for a hot E series engine? (7500 rpm)
Thanks in advance
I found that if I set my stock distributor at 18 total timing, I had so little initial that the car would barely idle and had sluggish throttle responce. So I actually have the mechanical weights modified so they can't move, so there is no advance curve at all. Mt distributor is locked at 18 deg. of advance. I simply set the initial to 18 and lock it down. The throttle responce is excellent this way. Incidently, I don't use vacuum advance either. Of course my car is a dedicated race car, so I don't have issues with idle quality and hard starting from too much advance when hot. I'm on race gas, and with so little total timing hard starting has never been an issue.
Hey blown,
If you shave an E16 head, the cam advances (distance from cam to crankshaft gear decreases, the belt tensioner is in the right side, so the belt ends being 'longer')
Or am I all confused?
Hey blown,
If you shave an E16 head, the cam advances (distance from cam to crankshaft gear decreases, the belt tensioner is in the right side, so the belt ends being 'longer')
Or am I all confused?
The way I picture it in my head, the cam would be retarded and yes the belt would be longer.
correct so technically u can shave it but the belt still has to be able to get tight, right? because as long as the belt is the same length and is timed it should work, u just have to skip it back a tooth maybe
need some tips for hp
. i race on oval dirt tracks in the upstate ny area. i race anywhere from 30-100 laps. the car is stock, but is stripped. i need some links for go-fast parts, but i gotta be able to sorta hide them. the class i race in is a basically stock class. my first mods i was thinking of doing are the following...
Linear Mode
