Ok, here's the plan! Starting from square one!
1. Install the E15T intake manifold on an E16
2. Get a wiring harness from a 91 or 92 GA16DE to use in place
of the harness that was supposed to power the E15
Here's my dilema, I want to know if the Throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, O2 sensor, Crank angle sensor or any other sensors will be able to bolt up to the manifold, or if they won't, will I be able to splice the wires from the distributor from the GA16DE to work with the distributor on the E16, same thing goes for everything else.. (Like will I be able to splice the wires that go to the crank angle sensor from the E16 harness to work with the GA16DE harness.. (like the connectors))I need a lot of feedback on this one, cause my carb has almost completely crapped out (again) and I want EFI cause it's better ALL AROUND.. Or if this harness won't work, what will.. all you experts out there.. help me out here.. cause if I can do it, and it WILL WORK as you guys say, then I'll do it, and there will be an EFI harness for all of us!!!! (A Festivus for the rest of us!) So throw in EVERY ounce of input cause I'm on the verge of doin' this.. (plus we'll get that really cool noise that those cold air intakes make when they are at full throttle that deep noise, you know what I mean.. I love that noise..) instead of the wussy high pitched noise of the 2 bbl carb.. if that thing had 4 bbls it be a beast hehe... anyways.. PLEASE RESPOND WITH MUCHO INPUT!!!!! MPFI E16! Help me make it happen... or not..
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1991 Nissan Sunny GS 4 door H/B British Spec (right hand drive)
-Currently has a GA16DE with an intake, and it hauls ass.
1968 Chevrolet Chevelle 4 door British Spec (right hand drive)
-3.9L 6 cyl with a 2 speed Powerglide automatic transmission
2007 Dodge Caliber SXT US Spec
-1.8L 5spd, Mopar Headder (no it didnt' make a difference, the car is still slow as all get out)
Hey I've been studying this shiz nitz all night (it's 3 am) and it looks like I can do it... gotta swap throttle position sensors from the 91 intake manifold to the 83... which they should bolt up.. the MAF is an inline thing.. which you just hook up to the air intake tube, the O2 sensors are the same from the 91 GA16DE (at least they look the same) and I think the crank angle sensors are roughly the same and I they all operate the same way, but you just have to splice the wires differently.. the hardest thing is going to figure out where I mount the knock sensor, and this wierd thingy here...the Fast idle control Device, and the Auxiliary air control valve.. (which are 2 units together) I'm first going to try to start it with starting ether to make sure it will run, then I'm going to put the fuel pump in the tank.. but I mean.. this really is lookin' good... I think I'm going to go ahead with it... gotta go to the junk yard monday and order the intake manifold tomorrow!! x-mas project!!!!! BUt still, I am going to need your guys input! so let me know more!!! Tell me if everything is correct so far!!
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1991 Nissan Sunny GS 4 door H/B British Spec (right hand drive)
-Currently has a GA16DE with an intake, and it hauls ass.
1968 Chevrolet Chevelle 4 door British Spec (right hand drive)
-3.9L 6 cyl with a 2 speed Powerglide automatic transmission
2007 Dodge Caliber SXT US Spec
-1.8L 5spd, Mopar Headder (no it didnt' make a difference, the car is still slow as all get out)
Wow, this is a really interesting sounding project! I don't know of anyone who has ever done it. So you will be teaching us! There will be alot of issues to solve. The GA16DE injectors are of a different design than the E15ET injectors. Even if you can adapt them in somehow, you would have to check the resistance of them, to make sure they match. Otherwise the ECU wouldn't drive them properly. Who knows? maybe the GA's ECU will drive the orig. E injectors? That would simplify things allright. I don't see any reason that you couldn't splice in the CAS and other components that operate similarly. Don't forget, that in addition to mounting an in-tank fuel pump, you'll also need a fuel return line back to the tank. Maybe you could use the vapor return line that's already there from the carb setup? I would love to see this succeed. I think Whitefox's project [GA16i tbi on an E16i] could also be successful, but I don't think he's working on it right now.
Anyone know if the connectors on the fuel injectors are the same for the 83 pulsar turbo as they are on the 91 ga16DE? And do they have the same resistance? if they do I'm going for it.. I already got the manifold on order..... just waitin to get the harness...
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1991 Nissan Sunny GS 4 door H/B British Spec (right hand drive)
-Currently has a GA16DE with an intake, and it hauls ass.
1968 Chevrolet Chevelle 4 door British Spec (right hand drive)
-3.9L 6 cyl with a 2 speed Powerglide automatic transmission
2007 Dodge Caliber SXT US Spec
-1.8L 5spd, Mopar Headder (no it didnt' make a difference, the car is still slow as all get out)
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I had a '93 Sentra Classic (B12)
Mom's got an '03 Altima 2.5S
Dad had a '98 Sentra GXE
Current "rides": 2000 Kona Caldera "Callie", 1996 Specialized Hard Rock "Betty"
Originally posted by RiceBox Why not just use the electronics from the e15t??
***** That's the best idea yet. My guess is, SuperHatch can't find the E15ET harnesses and ECU. Wait a minute.....I think I know why, it's because he wants to run normally aspirated, no turbo. The turbo ECU wouldn't work then.
SuperHatch: The info. for the resistance values, are in the factory shop manuals. The connectors can always be spliced in. No problem there.
I can't see any reason why the turbo ECU wouldn't work. The turbo is not always making boost so the ECU would have to adjust to that anyways.
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I had a '93 Sentra Classic (B12)
Mom's got an '03 Altima 2.5S
Dad had a '98 Sentra GXE
Current "rides": 2000 Kona Caldera "Callie", 1996 Specialized Hard Rock "Betty"
Originally posted by RiceBox I can't see any reason why the turbo ECU wouldn't work. The turbo is not always making boost so the ECU would have to adjust to that anyways.
the e15et ecu will have boos map wich will interac with VE tables... so when the rpm get up a bit , he will get all kind of trouble codes coming up... he better go with the ecu of yr/model he will get the most part from I.e maf/knock/injectors... also for injector control, if he get an ecu of higher resistance injector its easier to put lower resis. inj. just need a ballast type resistance soldered onto the neg terminal of the injector inline with the wiring... you will have to search for the ## of the exact thing you need but it should work... as long as you get abour the same CCs injector size... you can always work to put injector from other model i.e injector from ga16de into e15et fuel rail ... just make sure theyre made the same (top/side feed, oringeg, size of the bottom injector).... hope you get it done !!
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Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
Awesome idea, too much work imo, but should be fun if you have the time to kill. First thing.. My mechanical fuel pump has 3 hoses on it. one obviously comes from the tank, the other obviously goes to the carb.. I always thought the 3rd was a return line, wouldn't that return line work fine for fuel injection? Of course you'll want to inspect your fuel lines for rust, and replace every section of rubber when you convert to fuel injection, it's very pressurized, where your old fuel system wasn't. Make sure you use the high quality fuel injection clamps on the fuel line too.
As for why the turbo ECU won't work, it's designed to retard the timing as the RPM's go up, because it's expecting boost. It also goes pig rich at WOT because it runs open loop at WOT. That's fine with a turbo, that keeps it from leaning out and melting your pistons, but with an NA engine, you'll foul out the plugs very quickly from the extra gas. (I'm just repeating knowledge I've learned from dealing with Chrysler turbo engines, some of that may not apply to these turbo's)
Good luck.
Here's the update for the conversion!!!! DON"T TRY THIS YET, I STILL GOT SOME FINAL CONNECTIONS TO MAKE Ok, so far I have gotten the intake and I went to the junk yard for the wiring harness... I spent all day taking the wiring harness off of a 92 sentra.. you take the computer and there's a gaggle of wires that go through the fire wall that connect to the coil, coolant temp, knock, MAF, throttle body, O2 sensor, AAV thing, and the FICD (Fast Idle Control Device), get all of those connectors and their solenoids... cause here's how it's going to go.. the EFI harness off 91 GA16DE does not have the proper hook up to the injectors off of a 83 intake manifold... which means you have to get them off of another car... a late 80's efi volvo is the best bet, they clip right on.. (I think they are bosch injectors and the connector is very common) but you're going to need 4 of these guys so just cut them off at the electrical connector (Giving yourself plenty of wire length) you are going to cut off the old injector connectors from the 91 harness and splice those injector connectors into where the old ones were.. hope you guys are following me.. also!! get the throttle body off of a 91 sentra..(you know, the throttle valve) it's connected on the whole assembly with four 6mm hex screws... you need that guy.. (along with the Throttle position sensor) so take that off..and you see the one on the 83 EFI intake? YOU DON"T NEED IT... THE TPS will NOT bolt up to.. besides.. (I was soo happy when I figured this out) you take the 83 throttle body off *also held on by 6 mm hex key screws* andthen you put the one from a 91 sentra GA16DE onto it!! It BOLTS RIGHT UP!! Isn't that great?!?!?!?! Plus it's bigger = more air flow! Next, get yourself a distributor connector off of a 85 nissan sentra.. (well anything before 90 that didn't have a vacuum advance) it's a grey male connector.. and it's attached on to the distrubutor but you take it off (not the part that's going into the distributor, but the lower portion that is taped up with the rest of the harness) and you're going to need to splice that into the harness of the 91 connector (because the dist. rotates counter clockwise it sends a diff. signal so you have to move everything backwards.. trust me..) *I'm trying to make this crystal clear* OH, you're going to need the MAF sensor off the 91 sentra...or 92.. whatever.. cause you need that in order to maintain an idle... going back to the wiring harness.. you're going to say.. Q: Well CHris, I got the really big part of the harness that goes through the firewall, but there is a little green connector with relay on the end of it.. *A: you'll need it*.. Q: Oh yeah Chris? Well what about the white connector that has 16 connections on it and it is shaped like a rectangle *A: Well you get the other portion of of the harness which ( you will want to follow for like a foot and then cut it off, cause it goes into the fuse box, but there is a little grey connection inside of the 91 sentra fuse box, yup you see it? It's for the computer so you can read all of the codes that it's going to be screaming when it realizes it's missing part of it's nuts *basically* Well that grey connection underneith the fuse box takes up 5 connections *1 is a ground, the rest go to the white 16 connector rectangle thing* and you'll need that to read codes... Q: Well Chris, that leaves me still with 12 connectors on that white plug that I don't know what to do with.. *A: Well on that 16 plug harness, one of the little electrical things is missing on the opposite side (the side that goes to the fuse box) and it's really only a 15 connector so that takes you down to 11.. 2 extra connectors are POWER for the ECCS.. a RED connection and a PURPLE connection, now.. that takes you down to 9, well you got one more for a fuel pump relay.. *I forgot which color that was* but now you're down to 8, well you have the check engine light which is one more, and the digital speedometer which is working with the computer.. so now you're down to 6 I'm working on those.. but SO FAR, everything is going peachy keen jelly bean.. Oh by the way, buy a fuel pump block off plate cause you gotta take out the old pump and replace it with something that works, they have a block off plate at *Advance Auto Parts* (it's for a chevy, it's shaped like a house) but it will bolt up anyway.. Oh you have to put a lot of washers on it though cause there aren't any threads on the studs for like 1/4 of an inch.. so you gotta build it up...or you could remove the studs and replace it with a bolt, but I ain't goin' there.. too scared! take this time to try to inspect your intake valves on your sentra...mine are hard to see, but if you get in at the right angle with some light, you should be able to see.. I don't see any buildup onmine, which makes me also, Q: Well what about a fuel pump CHris?? *A: Ah hah! Well our little sentra's don't have a thing in the Tank to mount the electric fuel pump from the 92 sentra, so we have to go with an external one to mount inline with the line.. I'm trying t find one, I think I'm going to have to use one from an old BMW 325, it's gotta have a minimum of 50 PSI.. so lemmme get back to you on that one... Also, you're going to say *What about the fast idle control valve and the AAV* Well, I don't know where to mount them, if I can't hook them up, it looks like our cars won't idle fast in the winter when it's cold...but right now I just want it to start and will fix all of the crap from there on out... I'll write more tomorrow or something, but don't try this yet.. It's not a success story*Fully* but if it is, I'll have my nissan dyno'd and well find out how much I gained... ttyl oh and HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!
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1991 Nissan Sunny GS 4 door H/B British Spec (right hand drive)
-Currently has a GA16DE with an intake, and it hauls ass.
1968 Chevrolet Chevelle 4 door British Spec (right hand drive)
-3.9L 6 cyl with a 2 speed Powerglide automatic transmission
2007 Dodge Caliber SXT US Spec
-1.8L 5spd, Mopar Headder (no it didnt' make a difference, the car is still slow as all get out)
SuperHatch! You're a man on a mission. I salute you! I have to say, that I actually could follow your text, about the harness connectors for the GA16DE. This is because I have recently been through them all in my GA16DE swap into my B12. Yes, I too retained the grey Consult connector in my swap. It really sounds like you have a good grasp of what you are doing. Damn! I think you might actually pull this thing off! I can't wait to see a pic of an E16E!
good job man. your pioneering. it sounds like alot of work while reading it but thats because i have not done any wiring or anything like that to my car yet. is it hard to do? because i'm definately interested. keep up the good work