i read it in an article on some forum. i'll try to find it. also, look for individual reviews. there have been ads in superstreet ect.. aabout the hollow spoke design and stuff like that.
lightweight should not be as important as say, ofset, width and rim strength. the weight is important but you dont need super light weight rim in amature drifting
the most important thing when it comes to drifting, car wise, is the suspension, and LSD. If your serious about drifting then keep the stock rims or buy some crappy ones you dont care about. The rims are just gonna get damaged anyway.
__________________
1991 RMS13-- DD; Slushbox, bad paint, and dents
1992 CS13-- Getting overhauled for WMD status.
the most important thing when it comes to drifting, car wise, is the suspension, and LSD. If your serious about drifting then keep the stock rims or buy some crappy ones you dont care about. The rims are just gonna get damaged anyway.
my point exactly. To a drifter, tire set up is key, figuring out which tires fit your driving style and budget should be dealt with first, the stress that driting puts on your chassis and suspension should be dealt with next, then the LSD, upgraded suspenion, moderate power up grades
for drifting, you go through tires so fast its not even funny. I've been at some events where people will go through 3-4 sets of rear tires in a day... buy a bunch of stock steelies or cheap used wheels from various places and stick the cheapest tires you can find on them. for the fronts, you want something sticky to help you control the car, but the rears are just going to catch fire anyway so throw anything on them.... At least for the first few years you're doing it. once you get good, then you might start to look at that kind of stuff. don't mess with 17s either- at $100 a tire, that's not much fun unless you have a ton of money to throw away. use some 15s and you're down to about $50 a tire.
Also, look at 5Zigen wheels for some cheaper, nice looking wheels.
I'm running the FN01R-C for my track wheels on the Maxima.. http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/wheels...s/IM001245.JPG http://mattblehm.com/pics/track_pics...4/188%2018.jpg
17x8, 15lb (or so). they're cast, but they're still pretty strong. They have a forged version ofo the wheel which is slightly lighter, but also much stronger- and much more $$. I paid about $150 per wheel for those, plus another $150 per tire for my R comps.
FYI.. forged wheels are much stronger per weight than cast wheels. it's part of the manufacturing process in how they're made. it has nothing to do with 1-2-3 piece. do some searching elsewhere for a more technical description if you need to know more- just realize that forged wheels are generally 2-3 times the price of a cast wheel.
kosei's are allright, but not rigid enough for drifting. you must keep in mind that at speed a rim has lateral and vertical pressure on it. and a light weight rim that is not single forged, meaning that it is cast in a two or three stage process will not hold as much pressure.
like i said above, dont buy rims till you are good enough to afford to replace them, meaning you are good enough to never have to replace them
Real quick,someone asked about offset. Offset is not even close to being relevant. The only advantage it might offer is that (at most) it may widen the "Footprint" of your car. Deep offset rims are also a pain in the ass to get a tire on and off without bending. I still don't undertstand why someone hasn't considered using those bead locker wheels the off road guys use for drifting.
If you need to look at offset,Use enkei RT-6 rims as an example of Deep-Offset. Use torq-thrust rims as regular offset. easy enough.
__________________
1999 Nissan Frontier XE KC 4X2-K&N,Customized body damage,Pace setter headers,
1982 El camino-350 swap,Lunati voodoo cam,Holley 4130 carb,Race built TH350,MSD distributor,four bolt main caps,Dry sump oil system,Hole from floorboard from improper jack use,Straight Dual system,Exhaust cutouts (located at the header.)
Linear Mode
