ive had these white overlays sitting here for six months not having the balls to try to put them on. I know needle removing is a pita and most probably will result in permenant gauge damage. that being said, i was wondering if anybody has actually succeeded without calibration errors or broken needles.
well, they are more like stickers than simple ovelays. I would just pull them around the needle and center hub but there is a trip reset stick in the corner of the speedo that makes taht impossible
hmm i know there is a trick to do it ...like bending/folding the faceplates a little. Ive read about it in one of the threads in here.
I just got myself a new cluster for my car and gonna order full glow gaugues within next few weeks and its gonna be the same like yours. Ill have to figure out a way to slide the faceplates over the needles.
I put on indiglo gauge faces. I twisted my needles off and made sure I knew exactly where the fuel and temp needles were at, knew what my engine idled at, and of course knew exactly what the speedo hit when I passed the yield sign about an 1/8 of a mile by my house. It took me a while to calibrate them, but it wasn't brain surgery. The only thing wrong was that the temp gauge is a little lower than it should be but I don't really care that much to fix it. I think I was a lil intoxicated at that time also, so you should have no problem, just be really careful when taking off the needles.
First, take out the peg that the speedo sits on and mark the position. I held a ruler on the needle and made a mark on the white cluster housing, and another straight down from the needle so I would have two points of reference.
As far as the fuel and temp, put on the overlays and get the needles as close as you can. Then take the half-assembled gauges (don't replace the clear plastic) out to your car and plug them in. Drive to the gas station, fill up your gas tank, set the fuel needle.
By the time you get home your car should be at normal temp, set the needle. Unplug, fully assemble gauges, plug in, put interior back together, enjoy gauges.
After that sit back and contemplate why you didn't get the reverse EL gauges from procarparts.com or ebay.
Hope that helped, if anyone else has an easier way I hope they post it here.
Here are the instructions directly from the company that makes our clusters:
Please read entire manual before proceeding with installation!
To gain access to the gauge cluster in the 1991-1994 Sentra a few basic tools are required.
1. Phillips Head Screw Driver
2. Plastic Squeegee
3. Needle nose pliers
Step 1. Move steering column to lowest position.
Step 2. Remove the screws in the plastic trim panel in front of the gauge cluster and on the
bottom of the trim panel. Remove the top screws in the radio trim piece. Pull radio trim
piece out about 1” and maneuver the trim panel for the gauge cluster out. Remove the
speedo cable by reaching under the dash. Twist and pull on Speedo cable to remove.
Step 3. Remove the 4 screws holding the cluster in.
Step 4. Pull the cluster out far enough to reach behind. Unplug 4 Harnesses that plug into the back of the cluster.
Step 5. Select a CLEAN work area for taking the gauge cluster apart and take your time doing the next few steps.
Step 6. Unsnap the black plastic clips from the bottom of the gauge cluster and pull apart in halves. The gauge faces should be fully exposed at this point.
Step 7. Lift the speedometer gauge face up enough to slip the needle nose pliers in and push the needle rest out of the gauge face. ( Pops back in )
Step 8. Once the needle rest is off push the needle counterclockwise very lightly until the pointer stops. This point should be around 6-7 o'clock on the gauge face. When needle stops mark this spot on the gauge face. This is the speedometer calibration point. The needle must be placed in this spot upon re-assembly so that the speedometer will read correctly.
If you have a speedo cable with a needle return spring you will see the spring unwinding when you move the pointer counterclockwise you must stop turning it. To remove this style speedo assembly you must hold the shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers to stop it from turning. Removal of the speedo assembly may be required. Then continue to the next step.
Step 9. Once you have marked the calibration point on the gauge face turn the needle 3 complete turns counter-clockwise. This will loosen the needle from the metal shaft. A little resistance should be felt after the first turn. Continue turning the needle counter-clockwise after the first 3 turns but now turn it while gently lifting the needle. It should take about 3-4 more turns to completely pull it off. DO NOT PULL THE NEEDLE OFF UNLESS TURNING THE NEEDLE at the same time. If you pull the metal shaft out that the needle sits on the gauge will be permanently broken. This is why the needle must be gently pulled off.
Step 10. After the needle is off of the speedometer unscrew the gauge face and pull off.
Step 11. Use the same process of marking the calibration point and then removing the needles on each of the gauges.
Step 12 Acquire a small bottle of application fluid from your local sign shop that makes and installs vinyl signs.
Step 13 Once all the gauge faces are off wash them in luke warm running water.
Step 14. Do not dry the gauges. This will put small fibers on the face of the gauge causing the gauge overlay to be distorted. Shake the gauge faces to remove excess water from them.
Be sure not to touch the gauge face front after they are cleaned.
Step 15. Start with the Fuel gauge. Spray application fluid on the gauge face until it is soaked. Peel the gauge overlay apart so that the gauge overlay is on the transfer tape. Spray the application fluid on the sticky part of the gauge face.
Step 16. Lay the gauge face onto the existing one and align. Press down with one hand on the gauge face while using the squeegee to remove excess Fluids.
Step 17. Lay fuel gauge with transfer tape still attached under a lamp that will produce very low heat Keep gauge under lamp for at least 1/2 hr. To see if overlays have dried peel overlay tape off slowly starting at one corner. If the overlays are not dry yet don't peel the overlay tape all the way off.
Step 18. Wash the speedometer, tach and temp faces and apply gauge overlay in same manner.
Step 19. Once all gauges have completely dried turn them over and use the supplied X-acto blade to trim all the holes in the gauge face that are not cut. Some are not cut because of other factory options such as the security light in the center of the tach. Cut all holes that were originally in the gauge face. Screw holes; needle rests, clock, and clock adjustment needle and gauge alignment holes where applicable.
Step 20. Put the gauge faces back on the gauges. Screw gauges back on but use caution when tightening the screws.
Step 21. Color the needles to the color of your choice or leave clear.
Step 22. Place the speedometer needle on so that it points towards the 4 o'clock position above the odo. reset pole. Press straight down on the needle applying very little pressure. Once needle is sitting on metal shaft in stock position turn the needle counter clockwise just to the point of the needle calibration point that you marked earlier. After you have turned the needle so it rests pointing to the calibration mark freely move needle up to the 12 o'clock position and place the needle rest back in the gauge face.
Step. 23. Do the same as step 22 for the rest of the gauges.
Step 24. Snap the cluster back together and plug into your car.
Step 25. Replace all original screws and panel pieces.
__________________ 1991 Sentra SE - Auto to Manual swap, 15" Rota Subzero's, 205/50 Kuhmo 712's, Tsuru headlight conversion, SE-R front and rear disc brakes, SE-R front and rear swaybars, SE-R throttle body, SE-R rear inner taillights, HS CAI and Header, H&R springs, Koni shortened struts, ES Hyperflex kit, B&M Short Shifter, Autometer gauges.
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