nice, I might use some of those pics in my gauge swap writeup.
One problem that I want to point out. I REALLY don't recommend popping the needles directly off like that. You can easily yank the entire assembly out that way (believe me, I've seen it many times). The lowering the needles to their lowest positions is critical and I'm glad you ponted that out. When you have made a mark (indicating the needles lowest position), I recommend that you TWIST the needle off.
To take the needle off properly, you must turn the needle counter-clockwise (from the lowest point) for 1 complete turn. This will loosen the needle from the shaft b/c if the shaft comes out, you're screwed. When you have done the initial turn, you will continue turning but now you will start to gentilly pull up on the needle. After turning and pulling, the needle will pop off after 2-3 turns.
To put the needle back on, place it in the 3 o'clock position and push it back on. Finally, turn it around (COUNTER-CLOCKWISE) until it returns to the position marked earlier, then finally bring it back up to the needle's resting point.
I hope you will add this to your write-up b/c pulling straight up on the needle is a very easy way out of $100-300.
Yeah, I will add that. Thanks for the input. I didn't encounter any problems popping the fuel and temp needles off.. and they still work just fine now. Now if I popped the speedometer needle off, then I wouldn't have made the write up by now...
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"This has to be the best handling [fwd] automatic that I've ever seen..." - Somebody :)
nice cluster sr20kidd... that what I want mine to look like when I have extra money to spend on something... its not my top priority but something I'd like. -James
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It's so bright!
Linear Mode
