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my car revs to about 14,000 rpm as opposed to where its theoretically supposed to be at 6,500 rpm. only because i know i got something hooked up incorrectly. anyone running a ei dizzy, 6al msd on any of the Lseries engines?. im using the magnetic trigger ( violet and green wires ) and the white wire is not being used. both wires behind the tach and the msd box were cut. if anyone has any sudgestions of what i could be doing wrong PM me.
edit: about a couple days ago i figured the problem out. the wires from 2002 and under, autometer tachometers have orange and brown wires. to my under standing you were to cut both orange and brown so the tach will read for a 4cyl engine. for 2002 and up, the tachometers replaced the orange wire with a blue wire. now you cut both blue and brown wires for a 1 pulse 4cyl, or cut just the blue wire for a 2 pulse 4cyl. once i did this everything started to work correctly.
Last edited by SVP5TEN : Oct 24th, 2004 at 11:53 AM.
i have done my dyno this past friday. 150 hp and 140 tq to the wheels. i was off by about 10 hp. but i have heard of another trick to get me in that 160+ mark. ill post the dyno sheet hopefully tomorrow.
current modifications. rear diff and rear sway bar. i can tell you that this made a big difference. on just testing the rear 3.70 lsd diff i can come out of corners sooner than i could do with the open 3.90 diff. on testing the rear sway bar cornering was more confident, the rear is noticibly stiff and now it just leans in the front although it isnt that bad. im waiting on the front sway bar to come in from the 510 parts outlet.
finally got the front stablizer bar. now with the front and rear stablizers the car is very noticibly stiff. havnt had a chance to toss it through a few turns yet because of the weather. it just doesnt lean alot in the front like before so i know this was a good mod to start with. next on the list looks like 4 wheel disc and coilovers.
finally got the front stablizer bar. now with the front and rear stablizers the car is very noticibly stiff. havnt had a chance to toss it through a few turns yet because of the weather. it just doesnt lean alot in the front like before so i know this was a good mod to start with. next on the list looks like 4 wheel disc and coilovers.
That is Xcellent, Nice clean Dyno Run also. Love the Immediate rise and slow tapper.
If you can, get an Underdrive Pulley on that engine. It will get you to the 160 mark.
I tested ( KA24DE ) 149 HP / 148 TQ on my Silforty with :
ASP Underdrive PULLEY
Flowmaster Tube(12") and 14" Oval inline with 2.5" DIA exhaust(and of course I have to have a CAT in so it is PDM racings mod CAT for the 240sx/Silvia)
NO Cooling FAN
Injen Full Cold Air Intake.
So I know you can squeeezzzze 7 More wheel Ponies out.
You have about 3-5HP in the Fuel Mixture also. It is almost Opposite of my A/F Readings. I need to enrich it from Idle to 3500 and leave it for the rest. I am doing that with HKS SAFRC.
As you know, a nice Hi volume fuel pump with regulator would work REAL well.
May have to make an adjustable pump up and clean the Venturi bodies.
Last edited by spec240sx : Jan 28th, 2005 at 10:10 AM.
Thats some good stuff there. How is the motor assembled? Stroker style 2.3L or a big bore 2.3L? I am planning on trying out the medium block 2.4L which is great cause it doesn't use the bad "z" block as a base. Definitely on your motor its a good torque curve. Longer plateu=@ss in your seat power.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVP5TEN
ive got my L/Z 2.3 running yesterday. all i got to say is. torque torque torque. ill have a dyno posted hopefully in a couple weeks.
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72 PL510,72 WPL510,63 NL320,67 RL411sss,70 PL521 CMALLMOTORSPORTS@YAHOO.COM
Providing custom fab of EFI, metal/aluminum work, engine buillds, suspension, lowrider/hydraulics/air bags, body drops/channel, and restorations for all vehicles. We make Go-Carts, trikes, choppers (V-8, V-6 builds), and mini-cars. Email me if you need or want anything. I have alot of everything. Chris
Thats some good stuff there. How is the motor assembled? Stroker style 2.3L or a big bore 2.3L? I am planning on trying out the medium block 2.4L which is great cause it doesn't use the bad "z" block as a base. Definitely on your motor its a good torque curve. Longer plateu=@ss in your seat power.
88.5mm big bore, 152.45 long rod,92 stroke. so its a combination of both. im tearing the engine all apart now. due to a blown head gasket that came out of no where. but i did also see alot of "simple" things to improve on, that i believe troy ermish, my 2.3 builder , could of done to make more power. at idle my timing was at 32 degrees advanced. where the stock 510 should be at a near 15 degrees at idle. so basically when im in high rpm im waaay over advanced and its just trying to play catch up. and just some other valve train, and rotating mass thoughts that i may just write up about later. but the first dyno sheet was from troy ermish. lets wait and see what i can do. ill try to have a dyno sheet up by mid march. till then
That is way over advanced. I can see 10-15 hp lost right there.
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72 PL510,72 WPL510,63 NL320,67 RL411sss,70 PL521 CMALLMOTORSPORTS@YAHOO.COM
Providing custom fab of EFI, metal/aluminum work, engine buillds, suspension, lowrider/hydraulics/air bags, body drops/channel, and restorations for all vehicles. We make Go-Carts, trikes, choppers (V-8, V-6 builds), and mini-cars. Email me if you need or want anything. I have alot of everything. Chris
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