How To Remove Window Tint - Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
Avtomat Kalashnikov
 
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Exclamation How To Remove Window Tint

Car Window Tint Removal

By far the most often asked question is "How do
I remove this old, purple, bubbled tint off the rear
window without destroying defroster lines?"



Time: 1-3 hours


Materials:
-Warm sunny day
-Tarp
-Large plastic garbage bag
-Undiluted Ammonia
-Windex (a glass cleaner)
-Paper towels
-Fine steel wool
-Razor blades

Tools:
-Slotted Screwdrivers
-Phillips Screwdrivers



Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.


Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.

NOTE:
You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines,
when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have
radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same
material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be
careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of
saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines,
sometimes the film is just to far gone.


Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.

Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.

Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.

Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.

Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.

Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool.

Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
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post #2 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:21 AM
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I've seen this before on the internet before you copied and pasted it here. Please show the link you got it from.

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post #3 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Removing tint from side windows
Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels. Inspect for missed glue (its clear and hard to see)



Another way to strip using steam

If you have access to a Jiffy steamer or similar steam machine, you can make quick work of stripping. Apply the steam to a small spot for a few moments and use a blade or the spout of the steamer to peel the area just steamed, when you have enough to hold, just peel slowly as you steam just ahead of the area you are peeling.

This will bring both layers of tint off and sometimes the adhesive too, without presoaking for an hour



Quote:
Customers

If you dont know how to correctly strip off old tint, its probably best if you dont try.....It will only cost you more.

I had a guy come in about a week ago. He asked for an estimate to strip and retint his 2dr civic. I gave him the price for both. This much for the car and this much/hr to strip. He makes an appt. for me to tint the car, but said he wanted to save some money so he was going to strip it himself. I told him how to do it, but I also told him that if he tries and messes up i.e., doesnt get it all off, just pulls the film and leaves glue, kills his defrosters, scratches the glass, it was only going to cost him more. He said "well it doesnt look that hard" and left. A couple days later he brings it in for me to tint. This guy ruined every piece of glass in his car. On the B/W he killed the defosters, and left glue and tint throughout the matrix. On the 1/4's he scratched the frit all to hell (black boarder around glass for the noobs), and on the doors scratched the shiot out of them as well. After all that I STILL had to charge him to finish the job.

In the end this guy didnt save a dime. Instead he ruined all his glass, and probably a whole Saturday doing so. When he picked it up I asked how he did all the damage (I knew he didnt do what I had told him). The guy told me this....."Na man, the way you told me didnt work for shiot. I just took a 4" scraper blade from Home Depot and put that in some Vise Grips. That worked sooo much better" I couldnt believe my ears!!!

So you see what I mean everyone? Even if it costs just a little more to have the job done right, wouldnt you rather do that than what this guy did? Not to mention, youre going to make the whole job much easier for the tinter! Which in turn will more than likely get you a better job in the end.
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post #4 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Of course I will James. I always do
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post #5 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:24 AM
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Thanks!

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post #6 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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A good question about stripping

From SUZIE:
hi, so glad i found your website. i'm one of the fools trying to remove really old, really bubbled, baked on tint from my hatchback window with defroster lines. i've unfortunately already picked and pulled at most of it before i decided to search for help. i have all the stuff need to follow your instructions but i'm a little confused about the plastic bag part. do i need two bags? one for the outside and one to cover the tinted inside once i've sprayed the ammonia? please help so i can finally see out my back window.
thanks.


The reply

No, you just need one bag, the bag is to cover the ammonia that is sprayed onto the film (on the inside) so that the ammonia wont evaporate. The bag is first laid onto the outside just to cut it to shape. Unfortunately once the film has been partially stripped this method wont work well. You should still soak it, but dont expect to be able to peel it off (because there is no longer a continuous piece of film).

I suggest soaking it as normal, then expose only a small area at a time to pick at the film, then peel back the garbage back a little more and work that area. At this point you are looking at about 3 hours of sweaty hard frustrating work. If you can afford it, have a shop strip the rear window for you, it shouldnt cost more that 50$ an it will save you a lot of aggrivation.


Got all the Info from:
Source Site:http://www.tintdude.com/
Check it out
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post #7 of 33 Old Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Some tindude user-submitted tips:

Quote:
Tint Removal Tip:
I have a sugestion to make breathing a whole lot easier. the steps you mentiond are perfect, but instead of using ammonia, try using simple green. dilute a spray bottle 50% water and 50% simple green. spray it on the film, trap it with a plastic bag. 20 min or so in the sun even the ugliest, bubbled tint will come off. then use full simple green on the remaining adhesive left behind and bingo, steel wool (super fine) will melt the rest off. plus it smells much better than ammonia. works for me and i am a 16 year vet. hope it helps.
Quote:
Use a heat gun to heat up an area of the tint (careful not to burn your hand as the gun will reach very high temperatures). This will in essence melt the glue. Start peeling the heated section & repeat this for the entire window. Use GOO-GONE or GOO-AWAY with a cloth/crudrag (not paper towel) to clean window after tint is removed.
Quote:
Instead of using ammonia try the all purpose cleaner 409. It smells alot better and will preform the same task.


More tips here
http://www.tintdude.com/remove.html
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post #8 of 33 Old Jan 23rd, 2005, 10:21 AM
woo..im 25 dollars poorer
 
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wow, that just looks very scary, id def pay someone to take the old shit off, and put on some 5 %'s.

Rafik....
Quote:
Originally Posted by myoung on NF OT
The worst of the worse of NF reside here .. not the place to come for a hug
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post #9 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 12:56 PM
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STEAM IS THE BEST...

i just used a steamer to take my tint off my 240 last night and i was done within 30 minutes i just have to take off that stupid glue on there....the only question i have is y where there 2 layers of tint on there????

Nobody remembers when u do right, but everybody remembers when u do wrong.

Last edited by cwrr226; Mar 10th, 2005 at 12:58 PM. Reason: i cant spell....
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post #10 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 12:58 PM
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streamer? I need to do my 240 too... can you elaborate?

There may be two layers because someone redid the tint? Dunno.

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post #11 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 01:02 PM
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well the tint that came with my 240 was really clear so at first i didnt thing there was any...but i rolled down my window and i saw it and started peelin with my nails...but of course the damn tint split and so many ways....so i used a steamer last night around 11pm and it work great....just do it with your doors open or u will sweat yo ass off in your car.....and have a towel or rag ready to wipre so u can see where the left tint and glue is....

Nobody remembers when u do right, but everybody remembers when u do wrong.
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post #12 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 01:04 PM
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OH STEAMER! Ok, sounds like a good plan... maybe throw some ammonia in the steamer and do it outdoors with the doors open or something... I think that'd make some pretty quick work of the glue! Thanks for the idea!

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post #13 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 01:06 PM
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many people use steamers to take wall paper off so it working for tint only makes sence.

but! one thing that could happen is a saggy head liner. you are useing the steam to separate the glue from the tint, it only makes sence that it could also separate the glue from the head liner and leave you with a getto fab ride. so be careful and the best way to get around this would be to simply remove the headliner first...............easier said than done
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post #14 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 01:16 PM
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yea...u right....but u can also use to the steam from the steamer to locate the gule becuz its really hard 2 see....and just have that razor blade ready to take it off....

Nobody remembers when u do right, but everybody remembers when u do wrong.
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post #15 of 33 Old Mar 10th, 2005, 01:17 PM
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well if you keep the doors open and cover the liner with a plastic bag it should be ok.

did the steam take off any of the defroster lines?

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