no, wd-40 is not damaging to your cars clear coat.
well, all i know is we don't allow it near cars at my shop, so im going to advise to stay away... but hey, its your car... just remember, chemical damage is a bitch to fix...
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Originally Posted by apachewoolf
pssst yo token . your not black any more...there is no man
Okay...what if you work in a town callled "Lake FOREST"....F'n Trees everywhere!!! wouldn't really cut the trees down, But I just MIGHT kill all of the damn GEESE!!!
WHAT THE HELL do they eat to make their shit that bad!!
its the stomach acid... anything organic breaks down to an acid think tree sap, bird shit, leaves bugs... trhat etches into your paint after a chemical reaction... what causes that reaction? water and heat, or rain and sun...
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Originally Posted by apachewoolf
pssst yo token . your not black any more...there is no man
I got some tree sap on my windshield, but I thought it was scratches, and replaced the whole darn thing. I wasnt happy when I found out my mistake!
Paul
ouch that sucks... remember peeps, your windshiels is tempered glass, you can hack away at it pretty heavy without damage, take a razorblade and scrape, you wont etch it it your at least a little careful...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apachewoolf
pssst yo token . your not black any more...there is no man
A mixture of baking soda and water does an excellent job of neutralizing acids like sap and bugs. Make sure the baking soda is completely dissolved, though.
i've had some good experience getting road tar off with Goof Off. Takes off anything and wont hurt your paint if you take it off quickly and wash and wax afterwards.
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Originally Posted by mzanubis
yeah yeah yeah, the important question is... can it reheat my burrito?
WD-40 is harmful to clear coat. I also agree that rubbing alcohol is effective in removing sap, goo gone also works well. I have also found Varsol works well for removing paint contaminants. These chemicals will deteriorate the finish and wax should be applied to restore the paint surface.
Last edited by Smitty 3.5 : Dec 17th, 2004 at 03:58 AM.
Meguires Clay bar and spray is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi all
When I got my Skyline from Japan it was minging! It was covered in all sorts of fall out and other sap etc. I bought the clay bar and spray kit and used it on the whole car and it came up better than new and as smooth as silk finish!!!!!
Try it to believe it cus I did and will never look back!
cutting the tree down is the best remedy.. tree sap is about the worse thing to get on the paint next to bird crap.
damn straight, this method has two advantages: no sap from the tree (just like you said) and those friggin birds wont have a place to sit on so they can aim their little buttholes at your car.
or, shoot the little turd squirters
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BACK TO GA16DE-T PROJECT... NEVERMIND... GOT SOMETHING ELSE ;-)
damn straight, this method has two advantages: no sap from the tree (just like you said) and those friggin birds wont have a place to sit on so they can aim their little buttholes at your car.
or, shoot the little turd squirters
actually birds dont have buttholes, they have cloacas
Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can easily scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol act as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.
If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, I discovered that hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound removes the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then I can go back and use mineral spirits to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the mineral spirits or denatured alcohol can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed