So I live in cali near sacramento. And its not terribly hot, but hot enough.
I made my own leather seat covers...and its leather, so its hot.
I only have the triangle pieces tinted, I had the rear glass done, but coming back from a snowboarding trip, found it completely shattered.
So i kinda just replaced it and left it as is.
So anywho, car is freakin hot, and driving with the 2x60 ac doesnt work ( 2 windows down at 60mph )....cause the air is like 90 standing with humidity so its not refreshing at all going 65 or higher....its like an oven blowing in my face.
But the AC in my car doesnt put out all that cold air....
Had the idea of a DIY on the ac system....swung by wal-mart and picked up one of those recharge cannisters with a gauge on it ( R-134a ), and its like green=recharge...blue=good, yellow=something and red is=bad.
I put the hose on the low port and the gauge read as RED.....
Is my system R-12 or R-134a ??
Cause if its R-12 ...then maybe its not reading it accurately....and if it is R-134a....there goes a 100 bucks..... I read you should run it 10 minutes a day to keep it in good standing which I have been doing for the past week.
I've got a chilton, and all it says is that it isnt recommended as a DIY thing.
first off, it's a 134a, r12 is too expensive and is being harder to get to for the normal consumer.
you could check to see if your compressor clutch engages, well, at least, when the ac button is pressed.
and if you can have manifold guages hooked up, you can see what pressures you're running, well, if any.
if it's a leak, you'd have to find it first, then fix it, then evacuate the ac system, then recharge it with 134a. i'd really recommend that you have a qualified tech take a look at that.
first off, it's a 134a, r12 is too expensive and is being harder to get to for the normal consumer.
you could check to see if your compressor clutch engages, well, at least, when the ac button is pressed.
and if you can have manifold guages hooked up, you can see what pressures you're running, well, if any.
if it's a leak, you'd have to find it first, then fix it, then evacuate the ac system, then recharge it with 134a. i'd really recommend that you have a qualified tech take a look at that.
Yea, when I hooked up the DIY cannister from wal-mart, the psi was in the red like 150psi on the gauge.
But would that be due to the fact that the car has been driving in 90degree heat with the ac on...and had been sitting outside for 3 hours ??
Ill check it again tonight and see if I get a different reading....but yea...if its the same reading, definately bringing it to a tech...( i hate spending money on someone else doing something ).....
when the pressure goes that high the system will not engauge. sure your fans will kick in but it will not circulate any coolant. what you need to do is use the hose you got with the kit, take the gauge off. cover the end the gauge was on with the towle and connect it to releave the pressure al of it. buy a can of r-134a oil, start the car, put it on high and turn ac on, inject the oil into the system. run it, now add coolant and it should work.
the ac in my 91 se-r had no collant in it at all (guy had it made into 134a but never used it) and it didnt work. i used 2 cans of oil to unseize the compresser, 1 can of "ac system super seal" <like a thick super glue) and 1 can of coolant. i just bled the system today and it was like a brown color because the lines were so dirty. i replaced the coolant and its frosty now after 2 years of not being used that shit is cooooooold
Last edited by pete? : Jul 18th, 2005 at 08:21 PM.
when the pressure goes that high the system will not engauge. sure your fans will kick in but it will not circulate any coolant. what you need to do is use the hose you got with the kit, take the gauge off. cover the end the gauge was on with the towle and connect it to releave the pressure al of it. buy a can of r-134a oil, start the car, put it on high and turn ac on, inject the oil into the system. run it, now add coolant and it should work.
the ac in my 91 se-r had no collant in it at all (guy had it made into 134a but never used it) and it didnt work. i used 2 cans of oil to unseize the compresser, 1 can of "ac system super seal" <like a thick super glue) and 1 can of coolant. i just bled the system today and it was like a brown color because the lines were so dirty. i replaced the coolant and its frosty now after 2 years of not being used that shit is cooooooold
i hate to sound like a dumbass, but when you say coolant, do you mean refrigeant ?
And like i say, im paint and body....thats about it my friend.
So do I bleed the low port spot ??
Do i inject the the oil into the low port as well ?
1.i hate to sound like a dumbass, but when you say coolant, do you mean refrigeant ?
2.And like i say, im paint and body....thats about it my friend.
3.So do I bleed the low port spot ??
4.Do i inject the the oil into the low port as well ?
5.Im just this stupid......
1. yes sir.
2. dont worry, your learning.
3.yes, just put a towel over the end of the hose and then hook it up to the low pressure side
4. everything is dont on the low pressure side, high pressure should only be touched by the pros.
5. i knew nothing at one time too, then i joined this forum and also bought a project beater b13se-r that needs lots of work.......i know quite a bit now.
1. yes sir.
2. dont worry, your learning.
3.yes, just put a towel over the end of the hose and then hook it up to the low pressure side
4. everything is dont on the low pressure side, high pressure should only be touched by the pros.
5. i knew nothing at one time too, then i joined this forum and also bought a project beater b13se-r that needs lots of work.......i know quite a bit now.
Thanx that defaintely clarifies....
Recap::
1) bleed low port line completely.
2) recharge w/ r134a refriegant and im done.
right ?
& thanx for understanding with me learning....
If you need body and paint...im the man....link below my name has my car...and all of it is by me.
Thanx that defaintely clarifies....
Recap::
1) bleed low port line completely.
2) recharge w/ r134a refriegant and im done.
right ?
& thanx for understanding with me learning....
If you need body and paint...im the man....link below my name has my car...and all of it is by me.
^exactly. if you want a really good job take your car to a dealer and tell them "i need you to complatly bleed my entire ac system." and they will hook up a vacume type thing to the low pressur e side and a pump to the high. once its all out fill it with a can of oil re-charge and then some refriegerant <word to the wise, get the good stuff. read the lables and spend on the best. i like "artic freeze" it gets colder faster. i used the cheap $8 can yesturday as my last cleaning cycle because like i said before i fixed it and patched the holes it hasnt been used since 2 years ago minimume and last time i bled it it was brownish *yuck* so nect time im having a shop bleed the entire thing and ill recharge it.
first off, don't bleed the 134a into the atmosphere, that's just not cool, and EPA might fine you.
introducing air into the ac system will cause more problems. one that comes to mind is your receiver/dryer. the dessicant inside will be useless in absorbing moisture when the ac system is sealed.
first off, don't bleed the 134a into the atmosphere, that's just not cool, and EPA might fine you.
introducing air into the ac system will cause more problems. one that comes to mind is your receiver/dryer. the dessicant inside will be useless in absorbing moisture when the ac system is sealed.
I understand the EPA situation....second.....how would air be introduced ?
Cause the thing from walmart as an end that hooks into the low port like a tire thing which is pressuriezed...so only the contents of the can would go in, if anything a super tiny piece of air would get in......and how would that be different from a shop ??? they probably hook into the line the same way to recharge.
I understand the EPA situation....second.....how would air be introduced ?
Cause the thing from walmart as an end that hooks into the low port like a tire thing which is pressuriezed...so only the contents of the can would go in, if anything a super tiny piece of air would get in......and how would that be different from a shop ??? they probably hook into the line the same way to recharge.
not quite, they use a thing that hooks onto the low pressure AND the high. they put the refrigerant into the the low pressure side and pull some out of the high and cycle it......kiiiinda like bleeding a brake system but not quite.
but honestly cant see how you would get much if any air in the system by useing a DIY pepboys/auto zone/wal mart kit?
not quite, they use a thing that hooks onto the low pressure AND the high. they put the refrigerant into the the low pressure side and pull some out of the high and cycle it......kiiiinda like bleeding a brake system but not quite.
but honestly cant see how you would get much if any air in the system by useing a DIY pepboys/auto zone/wal mart kit?
well, yea, is what I figured.....
And im pretty sure the r12 is the bad really unsafe kind....thats why its discontinued for the most part and cost so much.....anything bad for the enviroment usually cost a ton just to have.....
but as far as r134a being bad....im not entirely sure....possibly....ill check
So I completely drained my AC on the low port.
Refilled it till the gauge showed 3/4 full within the blue section.....
Now the AC blows crisp cool air thats a good amount colder, and consistantly.
Before it would be warm, then get cold, then within 4 minutes go back to just blowing warm air....so this biggest accomplisment, is that it consistantly blows super cool air....
So im happy....Total cost...40 bucks.....compared to 120 at a shop.
after 2 years of not being used that shit is cooooooold
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