Bad news for ACT, lots of issues.

Coheed · Jul 11th, 2005, 11:12 PM

Let me tell you guys about a few problems I have experienced changing the clutch on my car.

I started out by acquiring parts.
JWT Flywheel
ACT HDPP
2000 SE disk
Stock TOB

I figured This would be a decent setup for a future VE or nitrous setup. Problems arose soon after the clutch was installed. First off, clutch adjustment issues were the first problem. the clutch was total pita to adjust. I finally got it just right and...
Clutch chatter.

Yes that's is right my friends. I didn't think this setup would cause the clutch to chatter as it was a mild setup. Wrong.

Then the TOB. Oh yes, the TOB decided to go out because it was always contacting the pp because of the previously mentioned adjustment issues. The only way the clutch would disengage was if the TOB was constantly applying pressure to the pp. So the TOB started to go. The clutch pedal started to rattle and make buzzing noises at varying RPM.

So here I am just tonight, just saving pennies to buy a stock replacement when I go to push in the clutch and...nothing. No clutch. I try to figure out what is wrong when I notice the clutch arm is torn almost completely off.

So here I am now with a $400 clutch system that took a shit after only 5K miles, I have to buy a $230 replacement clutch and I think it is $50 for a new clutch arm.

So guys, learn from my mistake. Don't buy an ACT unit, as you will more than likely have one, or all of the issues that I have had. Just buy a stock replacement or a JWT unit the first time and save yourself the time, money, and agony of going through this BS because of a simple HDPP.

NotAnotherHonda · Jul 11th, 2005, 11:17 PM

ive heard of too many problems w ACT. i had act on my turbo 1.6, and bever had a problem, but for my sr20 turbo, im stickin with a JGY setup

**wes** · Jul 11th, 2005, 11:19 PM

Honestly that is a common issue on most SR20's. If you research this you will notice that most SR20 owners switch to 1.6 clutch cables because they have more adjustment. If the cable was adjusted properly I think you would have not had all of those problems. I had an ACT clutch and while it eventually stretched the cable, it was fine until then.

As far as chatter, was the clutch disc, pp, and flywheel completely clean when installed?

200SushiX · Jul 15th, 2005, 02:18 AM

I've had an ACT clutch for about 10,000 miles now, and I'm happy with it.

DanTheMan · Aug 8th, 2005, 06:13 AM

10k mi is what I got outa mine.......an people said whatya' wannt outa a high performance clutch? 10k mi is good! Hah! my stock went 60k, that must be a super high performing NASCAR stock clutch to outdo the high performance 10k mi version!
Now I got a stock back in and will never mess with clutch again.
I can actually push this clutch down without having to stand on it! Wow.
Chatter?
My JWT flywheel is noisy (maybe you misdiag'd that as "chatter") I don't know why (it is shaped different than the stock fly) it only makes noise with clutch disengaged though, neutral/idle and it's just a whirring (quiet) When I push the clutch down it goes away. Engages fine, accellerates better. JWT as advertised! But yeah, it does make a sound at idle. I can deal with it for the performance. Anyone else know about that?

psuLemon · Aug 8th, 2005, 06:34 AM

A lot of lighten flywheels make a chattering noise.. JWT keeps them aorund 7-8 lbs to minimize that. I know on a tilton 5lb flywheel on the 350z it rattles like crazy. So you should expect that.

**wes** · Aug 8th, 2005, 12:13 PM

The flywheel should not make any noise. It is more than likely the throw out bearing. Make sure the cable is adjusted properly as well. My JWT setup makes no noise and has almost no chatter even with the dual sprung PP....

Ninety-Nine SE-L · Aug 8th, 2005, 12:51 PM

I have the Fidanza 8lb (same as the JWT Flywheel), I also have the HDSS clutch setup from ACT, not one problem, here. I'm quite happy with it. I'd say that more problems occur when you mix discs and pressure plates, but that's jus my opinion. I stuck with the entire Kit from ACT (except for the TOB).

DanTheMan · Aug 9th, 2005, 04:36 AM

well, as it's not a horrid grinding noise and the clutch works great (stock nissan setup against JWT flywheel) I will consider it normal.
No complaints with the parts or the noise just wonderin.

Sentrixx · Aug 10th, 2005, 10:26 AM

When does it makes the noise that you guys are talking about? Because I get a large rattle on my car when it first starts up and then it stops like a few seconds after that.

psuLemon · Aug 10th, 2005, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wes

The flywheel should not make any noise. It is more than likely the throw out bearing. Make sure the cable is adjusted properly as well. My JWT setup makes no noise and has almost no chatter even with the dual sprung PP....

well it might be true on ours, but on the 350Z, almost everyone that has a lightweight flywheel has a noise... especially with the tilton 5 lbs ones.

**wes** · Aug 10th, 2005, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentrixx

When does it makes the noise that you guys are talking about? Because I get a large rattle on my car when it first starts up and then it stops like a few seconds after that.

That is startup clatter in the valvetrain. It is fairly common on the SR20 cars and as long as you are doing regular oil changes I would not worry about it.

**wes** · Aug 10th, 2005, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psuLemon

well it might be true on ours, but on the 350Z, almost everyone that has a lightweight flywheel has a noise... especially with the tilton 5 lbs ones.

OK and that is relevant to the sentra forum how?

Sentrixx · Aug 11th, 2005, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wes

That is startup clatter in the valvetrain. It is fairly common on the SR20 cars and as long as you are doing regular oil changes I would not worry about it.

Is there any way to fix it.. Like bushing or anything of the such?

98sr20ve · Aug 11th, 2005, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coheed

Let me tell you guys about a few problems I have experienced changing the clutch on my car.

I started out by acquiring parts.
JWT Flywheel
ACT HDPP
2000 SE disk
Stock TOB

I figured This would be a decent setup for a future VE or nitrous setup. Problems arose soon after the clutch was installed. First off, clutch adjustment issues were the first problem. the clutch was total pita to adjust. I finally got it just right and...
Clutch chatter.

Yes that's is right my friends. I didn't think this setup would cause the clutch to chatter as it was a mild setup. Wrong.

Then the TOB. Oh yes, the TOB decided to go out because it was always contacting the pp because of the previously mentioned adjustment issues. The only way the clutch would disengage was if the TOB was constantly applying pressure to the pp. So the TOB started to go. The clutch pedal started to rattle and make buzzing noises at varying RPM.

So here I am just tonight, just saving pennies to buy a stock replacement when I go to push in the clutch and...nothing. No clutch. I try to figure out what is wrong when I notice the clutch arm is torn almost completely off.

So here I am now with a $400 clutch system that took a shit after only 5K miles, I have to buy a $230 replacement clutch and I think it is $50 for a new clutch arm.

So guys, learn from my mistake. Don't buy an ACT unit, as you will more than likely have one, or all of the issues that I have had. Just buy a stock replacement or a JWT unit the first time and save yourself the time, money, and agony of going through this BS because of a simple HDPP.

I had the same thing happen to my JWT PP/2000 disc. Bought a ACT HDPP/ACT Disc and it was perfect. Don't know why this happens but it seems to happen to people off and on no matter who makes the clutch. I loved the ACT HDSS setup on my VE. I would not mix and match disc/pp either. Stick with the complete setup ACT sells.