ok so i go out to my car and get in and turn it on and the instrument display isnt working and neither are the corner lamps the turn signal makes the corners blink and so does the hazard button but other than that there is nothing ive checked all the fuses inside the car and all ore ok.... help please!!!!
heads work radio works cig lighter works brakes work turns tork hazards work tails dont corners dont instrument dont hvac dont but the ac and heat and the 2 little lights at the bottom of the hvac work
well there is no 70A fuse there is how ever a 72A one but it is fine i checked the engine bay fuses and it was the tail fuse so i replace it w/ the same size fuse 10 and it turns on the lights and they stay on but as i go to sit in the car the dimmer switch exploded smoked and poped and its trashed so now i need a new dimmer
Last edited by luckysperm : Dec 12th, 2004 at 08:27 PM.
is there any way to bypass the dimmer switch so that i can not dim my lights and just leave them on the brightest setting? mabye like tying the 3 wires together?
have you done any mods that would put any extra voltage on the dimmer switch?
If you want to bypass the dimmer switch, tie the red/yellow wire to the black wire and make sure the red/blue wire is taped off.
Before you do anything else, make sure there are no shorts in the system, if you're blowing fuses and frying dimmer switches, you might just be completely missing the main problem and this can lead to more problems.
the thing about the dimmer switches is that they're cheap as hell. They're designed to work with the stock bulbs and nothing more. Most likely the red bulbs were a higher wattge than the stock bulbs and it was too much for the dimmer switch. If you know that was the cause of the switch's demise, then I don't think you have a short, I was just making sure it wasn't fried due to another, even greater problem.
My suggestion, you can bypass the dimmer by connecting the black wire and the red/yellow together, that will make all bulbs run at full brightness. It should also allow you to run those aftermarket bulbs.
BTW, don't run too many amps through the instrument cluster. You'll notice the copper leads on the back circuit board (circuit paper, I should say), are very thin and frail. You can easily fry those leads with too much Amperage. I've fried a cluster once before by adding just a few LEDs.
the thing about the dimmer switches is that they're cheap as hell. They're designed to work with the stock bulbs and nothing more. Most likely the red bulbs were a higher wattge than the stock bulbs and it was too much for the dimmer switch. If you know that was the cause of the switch's demise, then I don't think you have a short, I was just making sure it wasn't fried due to another, even greater problem.
My suggestion, you can bypass the dimmer by connecting the black wire and the red/yellow together, that will make all bulbs run at full brightness. It should also allow you to run those aftermarket bulbs.
BTW, don't run too many amps through the instrument cluster. You'll notice the copper leads on the back circuit board (circuit paper, I should say), are very thin and frail. You can easily fry those leads with too much Amperage. I've fried a cluster once before by adding just a few LEDs.
ok another ? i have with this is that my cd player wil not play unless i connect this red wire from the unit to a blue wire from the car the unit still gets power cause i can eject and load cd's and it comes on then turns off, but could this interfere with my blowing dimmer and an ass load of fuses?
the only way you can hurt the dimmer switch is if you use the red/yellow wire as a ground for something. The red/yellow wire serves as a 'controlled' ground for all the interior lighting.
this wire was definately all red plus i still have some lights like the warning lights bright turn cruise airbag etc and the blue and green down on the hvac and my dome works still
ok another ? i have with this is that my cd player wil not play unless i connect this red wire from the unit to a blue wire from the car the unit still gets power cause i can eject and load cd's and it comes on then turns off, but could this interfere with my blowing dimmer and an ass load of fuses?
As long as it's just the ignition-on hot it's the correct wire. The dimmer switches on our cars seem a bit finicky; I bought another one at a yard and it continued to do the same thing, cutting the clluster and HVAC lights off occasionally and only giving them juice when I played with the them.
Last edited by Jared592 : Dec 21st, 2004 at 03:23 PM.
well i fixed my radio problem the acc wire was just unpluged by the acc power wire from the car i cant believe i was that blind/dumb and i ghetto rigged some lights so that the pannel lights up works fine i guess
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