I have a 95 Nissan Sentra its automatic with 147k. I'm having a problem with the tail lights lighting up when I brake here's the thing.
When my lights are off in the daytime or whenever, I press the brakes and the tail lights do light up.
But when my lights are on the tail lights are really bright as if I was pressing on the brake the whole time. When I do press on the brakes there is no change in the tail lights so people cannot see that I am stopping when I have my lights on.
My 3rd brake light, the little one on the top center of the trunk does not have bulbs in it so it's really dangerous because people can not tell i'm stopping/slowing down.
First, as far as I know, the center break light has to work, its a law. If a cop or someone sees that it doesnt work, you can be pulled over. So get some light bulbs.
For the rest of your lights, were you messing with anything electrical? Need to check your fuses. If the ones in the cabin are good, then you need to pop the hood and check those ones. I think there is one marked tail lamp. This fuse panel should be on the left side of your battery. But since my B14 isnt here at the moment, I cant check.
I'm not sure of our particular bulb style but this same problem happened to my friend. His symptoms were the exact same as yours. What happened to him was he put in a wrong style bulb (it had 2 metal nubs in the wrong spot). So verify that you have not changed your bulbs/ and if so I would check to see if they are the correct style. In his case it was a garage that put them in for him. It is the easiest place to start, and obviously the brake light switch is working. Let us know if your still stuck....
I have a simliar situation .. you know how there are 2 brake lights on the outside of the corners of the back end and there are 2 additional brake lights on the trunk hood? My inner lights won't light up when I hit the break. Now, I'm not sure that they did before, but I noticed tonight in my rear-view mirror that when I tapped the brakes the red reflection in the snow wasn't as bright as it normally is ... especially with the LED strips that run across the spoiler (those are usually very bright).
I haven't messed with anything electrical besides putting in a new headlamp bulb today but I didn't mess with any wiring.
I have the same problem and now have 10 days to fix it due to receiving a ticket for non working brake lights. So, is the fix making sure you have the right bulbs (I bought mines from Autozone and not the dealer) and check the parking light fuse under the hood..? Anyone please let me know if they fix there cause the clock is ticking for me... thanks.
Yeah definently check your fuses, a few years ago when I was working at a bodyshop we had a sentra that had that problem. It turned out to be a fuse, I can't remember which one it was.
Ninety-Nine:
First, thanks for the response ..I really appreciate it. I will double check this but, I'm pretty sure they are the 1157 bulbs. I took the old one with me when I to Oreillys Auto Parts to get the new ones.
Nissan200sx:
Same goes for you as well...thanks for responding. After talking to my bud, we was telling that there is a switch of some sort underneath the brake or by the brake (it's starting raining so, shooting for today or this weekend). I will check the bulbs first (that they are 1157), then fuses by the steering wheel, then the parking fuse underneath the hood. I called the dealer to find out how much they would charge to check it out ....total cost is $90.00 diagnostic fee. Will let you all know...
I wouldn't waste too much time (or spend money) on checking out the brake switch (at the pedal). This goes bad very seldom. I tapped into mine when I put in my remote starter. It only has a few wires (2 IIRC) going into it and is very hard to get to (not to mention solder into).
My advice is start with the simple stuff. More than likely it is your bulbs or the fuse. Also pay particular attention to the bulb sockets. The bulb sockets can sometimes melt/arc over time and short out the system causing the fuse to blow. These are all items you can check and not have to pay someone to check for you .
Got home last night and started trouble shooting this bad boy. I checked the rear lights again they are 1157 (dual post) bulbs, checked the emergency light they're right, same goes for the third brake lights (getting the bulb number today)...they all seemed fine. I checked the parking light fuse underneath the hood was fine along with the other fuse in the fuse box on the dash.
Earlier during lunch I bought the parking light switch for $6.00 bucks at the dealer...still having the same problem. I noticed a second parking switch I wish the guy at the dealer would of told me these cars have two. Going today again during lunch to get the second one (it might be for the airbag will have to check with them now that I think about it. It's a brown color vs the parking light switch is a light blue one).
Next on my list is the turn signal switch on the steering wheel and the rear taillight wiring harness. Will keep you all posted.
I'm a little confused by your terminology. A few things, emergency light, parking light switch.
I'm looking at the schematics and heres a few things. Do you have abs? automatic transmission?
Heres what I'd highly suggest doing. Take it one step at a time. Go to the taillights and verify that your grounds are good. You see you have about 7 bulbs tieing into the ground so it seems as though its either a bad ground (or missing ground) or no power when the switch is depressed.
GROUND TESTING
To verify that your ground connection is good. Go to a bulb socket and remove the bulb. lets use you rear LH combination lamp. Pull either bulb out of their socket. For this test it does not matter what bulb you pull because both the stop and the tail light have a common connection to ground. Now that the bulb is removed take a DMM (multimeter, ohmeter) and put it on the continuity or ohm setting, be sure that if your meter has different sockets for the volts and ohms that you use the right socket (been there done that). Now take one lead and touch the metal casing of the socket, now touch the other lead to a decent ground (like a screw holding some panels together). If the ground is good you will probably read about 0.2-1.0 ohms.
POWER TESTING
To see if you have power when the brake switch is pressed you'll need a helper to ensure that the pedal is pushed in. I guess the easiest way is just to pull out the other bulb. Put your meter in the DC voltage position and change the lead socket if required by your meter. Have the helper step on the brake pedal (which activates M19 stop lamp switch), This switch will pass the power (assuming the power source is there) along the wiring to the CENTER of the bulb. You'll have to try and keep the lead from hitting the outside casing while your testing this. Basically you should expect to see 12-14 volts DC I believe.
Let us know once you have verified these 2 things (ground, power). Don't worry about buying parts for now.....Hang in there
I'm a little confused by your terminology. A few things, emergency light, parking light switch.
I'm looking at the schematics and heres a few things. Do you have abs? automatic transmission?
Heres what I'd highly suggest doing. Take it one step at a time. Go to the taillights and verify that your grounds are good. You see you have about 7 bulbs tieing into the ground so it seems as though its either a bad ground (or missing ground) or no power when the switch is depressed.
GROUND TESTING
To verify that your ground connection is good. Go to a bulb socket and remove the bulb. lets use you rear LH combination lamp. Pull either bulb out of their socket. For this test it does not matter what bulb you pull because both the stop and the tail light have a common connection to ground. Now that the bulb is removed take a DMM (multimeter, ohmeter) and put it on the continuity or ohm setting, be sure that if your meter has different sockets for the volts and ohms that you use the right socket (been there done that). Now take one lead and touch the metal casing of the socket, now touch the other lead to a decent ground (like a screw holding some panels together). If the ground is good you will probably read about 0.2-1.0 ohms.
POWER TESTING
To see if you have power when the brake switch is pressed you'll need a helper to ensure that the pedal is pushed in. I guess the easiest way is just to pull out the other bulb. Put your meter in the DC voltage position and change the lead socket if required by your meter. Have the helper step on the brake pedal (which activates M19 stop lamp switch), This switch will pass the power (assuming the power source is there) along the wiring to the CENTER of the bulb. You'll have to try and keep the lead from hitting the outside casing while your testing this. Basically you should expect to see 12-14 volts DC I believe.
Let us know once you have verified these 2 things (ground, power). Don't worry about buying parts for now.....Hang in there
Could you please tell me how to replace the bulb in the red plastic housing called a third or high mounted brake lite in a 2001 Sentra?
Thank you
Pete
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Tail lights don't light when braking
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