you must remove the trans to get the clutch out. you will need either you and a partner...or a jack to lower the trans. i dont suggest jacking the car up to high...itd prolly be best if you used a 6 tons jack for this as well since it goes up higher. you dont need the diff. seals if you are careful pulling out the axles. my axle fell out some when i put my front springs on and it busted it so be careful. its really not that hard...just make sure you torque the flywheel correctly and now would be a very good time to change your tranny oil since it will be out of the car and its a pain w/the trans. in the car.
Location: B.S. from University of Connecticut in 2003
Posts: 351
Re: 3 clutch change questions >>
Quote:
Originally posted by se7enty7 Just so I know what I'm getting into..
As long as the car is up high enough.. do I still need 2 jacks?
Do I really need left and right differential seals?? How much do these usually cost?
No manual or walkthrough specifically says to remove the tranny... but all the pictures show it removed.. is it neccessary to remove it?
Thanks
yes, you have to remove both axles and both wheels.. not only jacks I would say, but stands..
axle seals are not that expensive, get 'em.. I think they're prefered because when you pop the axles out you might damage them... also buy a new throw out bearing and a clutch alignment tool
you have to remove the whole bell housing attached to the engine.. make sure you have a friend to help you bench press it or you will need engine harness... you don't have to remove header downpipe or the engine brace if I remember correctly, although directions say you do..
1 tip - mark all connections and all bolts!!! don't rush and remember breaker bars do wonders on loosening big bolts, but be carefull not to over tighten them
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"Those who stand for nothing, will fall for anything"
Location: B.S. from University of Connecticut in 2003
Posts: 351
Quote:
Originally posted by se7enty7 I just changed it like 2 days ago I will have to go buy some more redline fluid
Is this worth doing yourself?? How much would labor be to get someone else to do it? ARg.. I really don't feel like doing this.. gr
$300-$600??
You gotta have motivated attitude about doing this kind of job, otherwise you will get frustrated... you can drain redline oil in a bottle and then fill it back in when you're done..
also how come you bought a new flywheel.. you can just resurface your oem one when you take it out...
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"Those who stand for nothing, will fall for anything"
"You gotta have motivated attitude about doing this kind of job, otherwise you will get frustrated... you can drain redline oil in a bottle and then fill it back in when you're done..
"
AWESOME idea.. Thanks!
Pep boys changed my clutch last time. It was like $300 for everything.. but after 20k miles the clutch is.. well.. it's not really slipping.. If driven hard AT ALL it will NOT hold.. like.. grr.. it's hard to explain.. I think it's about to start slipping.. not quite yet.
Anyhow.. when pep boys turned the flywheel last time the guy was all like.. it's turned past factory specs, and the previous owner must have learned how to drive on it or something because there are hot spots.
He said next clutch I would have to get a new flywheel..
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98 200sx se, Hotshot CAI, Rota Circuit 8's, Nitto NT-450, ground controls with agx's.
Location: B.S. from University of Connecticut in 2003
Posts: 351
I'd say if you really don't mind getting greasy then invite your friend with a spare car and go for it.. otherwise just pay $ and have less heaaches.. but I would avoid pepboys
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"Those who stand for nothing, will fall for anything"
I will have to go buy some more redline fluid
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