But you can't go wrong with Mobile. If you really really want to take care your engine,change your oil frequely, like every 1500 or 2000 miles, it doesn't really matter what type of oil you use. Trust me.
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1995 200SX SE
2004 CRV LX
2004 Corolla LE
Originally posted by himilefrontier I would not use Syntech in any engine after what happened to my friend's 5.0 Mustang engine on it.He pulled the intake after 100k of using the stuff and the valley was full of sludge!This was in a vehicle that had regular 3k mi oil changes.It also stripped the rustoleum right out of the valley in his 351 Windsor powered race car.I, on the other hand, have ahd no problems running Mobil 1 in any of my cars and would strongly recommend it to anyone who has a newer engine.
Would a '96 GA16DE with 120k miles on it be considered a newer engine???? Also, once a turbo goes in, can i stay with the same viscosity/brand???
I get what you're say himilefrontier. Turbo = your baby. But I think that any of us here treat our cars with more respect than most people do (Is that a dirt road? Oh Yea!) well, most the time atleast. I just dont want a 3500 investment to be nothing more than a noise maker after running the wrong lubricant, nor do i want my project stunted by bad seals. I also considered semi-syn, any lowdown about that?
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-Kyle
HS CAI, 16" Rota Subzeros w. Khumo ECSTA Supra 712s, JWT 7lb Flywheel
Originally posted by togenji Since the season is starting to heat up, would you guys stick with 5w-30 or switch to 10w-40?
I would not use 10W40 in an import engine. Nissan doesn't recommend it and it's not widely used by many people that I know of.
Quote from The Engine Oil Bible "Multigrade oils work by having a polymer added to a light base oil which prevents the oil from thinning too much as it warms up. At low temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as it's low number (W number) indicates. As the oil heats up, the polymers unwind into long chains which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100°C, the oil has thinned only as much as it's higher rating. Think of it like this: a 10W30 oil is a 10-weight oil that will not thin more than a 30-weight oil when it gets hot.
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The viscosity index range of 30 on 10W40 oil is high which means the polymer chains in the oil have to wind and unwind more than say a 10W30 oil. This continuing cycle of cooling and heating will cause any conventional oil to break down much faster and will not protect your engine as well. Synthetic oil doesn't sheer down the same as conventional oil so you can run it at longer intervals without loss of protection although it's up to the individual user.
togenji, if you drive less than 3000 miles in 3 months, then I'd suggest to change the oil two to three times a year, spring and fall or spring, mid summer and late fall to remove contaminants and water build up that remain in the oil. I've heard three times a year is optimum with low mileage.
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Originally posted by himilefrontier I might go to 10w30,but not 40. Nissan engines have tight bearing clearances and a really thick oil could cause the bearings to run dry...
Excellent post himilefrontier, I'm just wondering if it's true. Our mechanic, the one my dad has been using for the past 15 years, uses 10W40 on older engines and after reading a year ago about oil types I knew that it wasn't doing any good. Like you described, Nissan engines have tight bearing clearances and thick oil, 40weight, could cause the bearings to run dry. I can support that claim to some extent. Since we had the timing chain guides fixed at the same garage I'm sure he used 10W40 after he was finished. The car, my mothers, may have gone 10,000Km's with out an oil change while at the same time was experiencing an oil leak a few months later. I can't be for certain if the bearings went dry because the oil was low or because of the type used. With that said, all 5 crankshaft bearings had to be replaced for $12 each not to mention labor which wasn't cheap. He told us the bearings were in such bad shape they scored the crank and couldn't guarantee the work. Two weeks later and they're gone again so now I'm looking for another engine for the car. If a simple and cheap seal was fixed and perhaps a different oil was used they wouldn't have had this problem. On a side note, they now own a 2003 Kia Rio but I still have my B13 and I plan on keeping it.
For those of you wondering about AMSOIL, apparantly it has been around since the late 70's and was one of the first synthetic oil producers. While it hasn't received attention like RedLine, from everything I've read about it, most on their own site, it seems to be the best on the market. The Engine Oil Bible is a good read and I suggest it to anyone wondering what to buy.
As for Engine Additives, don't even think about it!
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Originally posted by SilverSentra99 I am wondering about the new Mobil 1 0-W30. dose anyone now what the purpose is for this new light weight oil?
0W-30 is good for extreme cold climates, mainly in the winter so that the oil will be thin enough during start up to move. Once it reaches normal operating temperatures it acts like any other 30 weight oil. Anything lower than 0W-30 is considered an engine conditioner/flush treatment and shouldn't be run in your car for everyday driving.
Mobil 1 also makes a synthetic 15W50 oil for Turbocharged/Supercharge engines for those of you wondering.
Originally posted by MCHNHED Would a '96 GA16DE with 120k miles on it be considered a newer engine???? Also, once a turbo goes in, can i stay with the same viscosity/brand???
By newer, I was referring to age more than mileage.Your engine is not "newer" in my opinion since it is 7 years old.I have a 95 Sentra GXE with 68k on it and wouldn't run a synthetic in it either.My Frontier has 193k on it and I have no problems since it has been on synthetic since it was 1 yr old,and so the seals are used to it.With a turbo, you should run the synthetic for reasons I stated earlier, but I would be ready to replace the crankshaft seals and some gaskets shortly after the switch.This is cheaper in the long run than having the turbo cartridge go bad since the oil passages got plugged with sludge because of using the wrong oil. Another thing to look at is the API label on the back of the oil bottle.My Mobil 1 is rated "IL and CF".The I stands for igniton,and the C is for compression ignition-deisel.Get a oil that has a "c" rating(the letter after it is for which standard it meets-higher letter is better)since deisel's require a stronger detergent package than gas engines do-this is better for the life of your turbo.
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1998 Nissan Frontier XE/2wd/5spd 1 owner, 264k miles
1985 Olds Cutlass, 350 Chevy, owned for 14 years
WANTED: 1968-1973 Datsun 510 or 1991-1994 Sentra SE-R http://www.myspace.com/junkyardengineer
Originally posted by 95 SentraB13 Mobil 1 also makes a synthetic 15W50 oil for Turbocharged/Supercharge engines for those of you wondering.
- Greg
MR GREG...since you seem to know so much about engine oil... please enlighten me - what viscosity would be the best for my situation? (see first page of this thread) also... would using synthetic Mobil 1 destroy my gaskets and seals since i haven't used syn.Mobil in the past???? thanks for answering my questions man...
MCHNHED, because of the amount of Km's on the engine and it's age, I would not suggest switching to synthetic with out being prepared; meaning have money around to fix any possible leaks. I have the same engine, '95 GA16DE with 197,xxx Km's(117,xxx miles) and I do plan on switching to synthetic as I want to keep the car for as long as possible and keep it running longer and stronger from the added protection. I don't like the idea of conventional oil gumming up the inside and leaving behind deposits. With the oil cover removed there is a dark layer of varnish on the rockers and other parts so I'd hate to see what the internal/base of the engine is like with less than adequate oil changes. Because of the current condition of my engine, I don't feel comfortable pushing the car hard knowing the maintenance history. Even with regular changes and the continued use of regular oil, who's to say that I won't blow a gasket or develop a seal leak?
If you switch to synthetic and don't develop any problems after the second drain interval then you should be relatively safe with regards to leaks. It's a gamble like everyone said but I'd have more confidence knowing the engine has the best protection, especially with any future runs/cruises with our local car club.
As for what is best in a Turbocharged application, I would say to use synthetic 10W30 because of the GA16DE clearance specifications. Anything thicker may cause internal problems. I haven't done a lot of reading on what's best for turbo's but a simple search on Google seemed to place AMSOIL Synthetic in the top. There are hundreds of sites by AMSOIL deals, one site saying 85% of race teams use AMSOIL even though they're sponsored by Castrol or Mobil 1 for example. If you are going to turbo the engine, synthetic will provide the best protection and switching now is a good a time as any.
**The above comments are my personal opinion and in no way reflect the endorsement of one particular product. Application uses and personal experiences by other board members may provide the best answer. As always, research is the key.
Hey, thanks MCHNHED! I'm really only laying out your options as to what to watch out for or what to buy. Himilefrontier's last post said pretty much the same thing and he has an example to back up what I said. You can use varying viscosities of synthetic oil but as to which is best for turbocharging I can't be for certain but instead base my decision on a non-turbo'd engine. I would contact AMSOIL for your exact application and engine type as they have a wider range of synthetic oils compared to Mobil 1's 5W30, 10W30 and 15W50. Check out the Store at AMSOIL's website and read the information on each oil type to see what you think may work best.
I'm not saying you need to use AMSOIL, perhaps you're interested in Redline or Royal Purple, but at least you'll get some information. If not, contact the other oil manufactures. Perhaps you can contact Mike Young at NPM for the turbo GA16DE he put together and see what he used.
I know I'm getting old when people start calling me Mr. hehe. It's scary when people think I'm older than I am. I'm not really that old and they usually say I look mature so perhaps that's a good thing.
I personally use Mobil 1 or Castrol GTX 5W-30 in my Sentra, along with Nissan oil filters, and change every 4-5k. I usually do this myself, but occasionally allow the dealer to do the maintenance - and they're always great about following my requests to the letter. No problems yet; the car still runs like a top with 63k on the odometer. My dealer is pretty impressed, but not surprised, with its condition.
Conventional oils can come from many different hydrocarbon bases, some of which are more prone to leaving deposits than others. I choose to use Mobil and Castrol oils because over time, their detergent packages have been shown to minimize sludging and deposits. Castrol GTX in particular is a favorite of Taurus SHO owners, and if it's good enough for a high-performance Yamaha, I figure it should work well in my little Nissan.
I have tried Mobil 1 synthetic, and my gas mileage improved slightly, but not enough to justify the price premium we pay in my area. I think unless you have a high performance engine, or are going to turbo-charge your engine (as you plan to do), it is more important to change your oil regularly (which many people forget to do). Mobil 1, no matter what the base, is an excellent product, and both Nissan and Mobil 1 make some of the best filters on the market from what I've read. It's also cheaper than AMSOIL or Redline.
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