thxone

Thanks anyway

thxone

Bought a code reader... P0340. Camshaft Position Sensor... which is in the Dizzy. Got a reman from AutoZone.

The car tried to fight me but I kept it running until it calmed down. I had to hold the throttle at 2,000rpm's and the car would drop down and I would have to rev it back up and hold at 2,000 three or four times before it settled down... Set the idle and timing. Now the car is running and hasn't cut off. I drove it for a while with no issues. All told I bough the code reader $60, the Crankshaft Position Sensor $70, The Coolant Temp Sensor $24 and the Distributor $219.

jdg

Hopefully you got the lifetime replacement warranty on it. Wouldn't count on it to last...although weirder stuff has happened.

__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.

NISSAN GOOGLE

Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?

Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.

Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?

Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"

Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???

And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)

And yes, I am diggin' it...

EvilPotato

for $25 you could get i bought mine long time ago, works only on nissan consult ports, unlike the code reader which works on ant car with obd2. i bought mine mainly to get the car in timing mode (i know, straightforward procedure but i just couldnt do it) but it does many other things, like read and reset error codes, read and realtime monitoring of the sensors that sends signal to the ECU and other things depending on which software you use.

__________________
"...and the Lord said to John, Come forth and ye shall receive eternal life, but instead John came fifth and won a toaster."

jdg

I've never had much of a problem getting it into the timing mode, but for the price of that interface/software above...heck, that's worth it.

__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.

NISSAN GOOGLE

Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?

Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.

Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?

Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"

Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???

And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)

And yes, I am diggin' it...

thxone

If I keep the car I am going to save up for the brand new distributor. I may sell it and get another 280zx or an early 90's Jeep Cherokee XJ.

thxone

I drove the car for two days to make sure it would not screw up again. It was fine so I set the idle and timing correctly. It's now at 10* and idles when warm at 675 rpm's. I also put the baffle in my muffler... the car is quieter and running very smooth.

thxone

We may be re-visiting this issue again. The car, now at 221,900 miles, is starting to stall at lights again. It is running fine otherwise. It is how the car started out before... erratic idle... bogging down at lights, then stalling. I have also noticed something... sometime my brakes don't work so well... I have new but now properly broken in slotted rotors up front but every now and then if I run the air the brakes don't want to work and the pedal gets real stiff. Vacuum leak? Anyway, I think I need to replace the Dizzy again... I hope it's under warranty.