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B14 95-99 chassis 1995-1999 Sentra and 1995-1998 200SX

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post #16 of 26 Old Dec 1st, 2012, 01:41 PM
jdg
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The shops aren't gonna be helpful because you aren't paying them to do the work.
You tap off ( T off ) the fuel pressure feed line that goes into the fuel rail itself, comes up the firewall, then angles forward to the rail.
You're gonna have to cut the line in half to T- into it and replace that line when you're done.
Use high pressure fuel injection gas line...none of that low pressure stuff or you'll end up with a line that's ballooned, filled with gas and ready to blow.

99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.

NISSAN GOOGLE

Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?

Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.

Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?

Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"

Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???

And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)

And yes, I am diggin' it...
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post #17 of 26 Old Dec 1st, 2012, 05:24 PM
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The fuel pressure test gauge uses a "T" fitting that connects between the fuel filter outlet and the fuel hose. The system is pressurized and pinch clamps or pinch pliers are use on the fuel hose before the test gauge and after the fuel rail, on the return line hose.

Fuel pressure test gauge:
Fuel Pressure Tester & Fuel Injection Pump Tester

Pinch pliers:
Search results for: 'pinch pliers'
post #18 of 26 Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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So is this kinda' what i'm looking for? Looks like autozone might have some.

Actron/Vacuum and pressure tester kit (CP7803) | Fuel Pressure Tester | AutoZone.com

And I'm guessing i can't just leave that hanging off my fuel line once i put it in? I have to buy a new fuel line if I want to do some serious driving after doing the leak down test? If not, I'd just leave it there so I can always pop the hood and check it after it sits overnight or something...
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post #19 of 26 Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smj999smj View Post
The fuel pressure test gauge uses a "T" fitting that connects between the fuel filter outlet and the fuel hose. The system is pressurized and pinch clamps or pinch pliers are use on the fuel hose before the test gauge and after the fuel rail, on the return line hose.

Fuel pressure test gauge:
Fuel Pressure Tester & Fuel Injection Pump Tester

Pinch pliers:
Search results for: 'pinch pliers'
whoops, didn't even notice those links :-P there is a harbor freight on my way to the university on monday, i'll swing by and grab that while its on sale :-D
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post #20 of 26 Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 02:06 AM
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This is what you'll need:

Actron/Pro fuel tester kit (CP7838) | Fuel Pressure Tester | AutoZone.com

Fuel pressure leakdown test only takes 30 mins. and the engine should not be running after the test. When you're done, remove the gauge. You don't need to buy any fuel hose. The kit you showed is for vacuum testing and carburated engines, not for fuel injection.
post #21 of 26 Old Dec 6th, 2012, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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The nearest Harbor freights and autozone's didn't have any of those. I'll have to order online...
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post #22 of 26 Old Dec 7th, 2012, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Swung by another autozone today and they had a fuel pressure testing kit for rent. $150 bucks to rent the thing, and if u don't bring it back within 90 days, keep it cuz its yours. bring it back within the allotted time, and the entire purchase is refunded. really sweet deal. so i'm gonna grab some cash and go get it tomorrow. what exactly am i looking for though? just a drop in pressure overnight? how significant of a drop should it be? thanks for all the help so far
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post #23 of 26 Old Dec 19th, 2012, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so here is a rather lengthy update for those who by some slim chance may still be paying attention.
I got a fuel gauge, and it took my three trips to NAPA just to get the right hose, seems like the rubber material wasn't right the first two times. After taking care of all the leaks, started her up, annnnnnnnnd.....................nothing.
Cranked, fuel, air, spark. Everything checked out. Sat in the shop while I struggled to find a problem. Computer spat out a P0125 code, which is apparently the engine coolant temperature sensor for closed loop fuel control. Whatever that means. Anyway, popped out the sensor, glanced around, seemed fine and resistance seemed fine when cold (though i don't know what it is supposed to be exactly). Made the mistake of popping the radiator cap while doing so and a whole bunch of coolant spat out of the ECT and got everywhere. Put the cap back on, cleaned up the engine a tad, put the engine coolant temp sensor sensor back in, and topped off the engine with some coolant.
Then figured i would pull the plugs out, glance into the cylinders, and clean them up (for the second time since i started this thread). Cranked it first, pulled out the plugs, and it looked like someone had tried to water-board them with fuel. Cleaned up the tips, cranked it without plugs to test compression (70-130-90-150 for cylinders 1-2-3-4 from left to right) and then popped the plugs back in. Cranked the engine, i could tell it was trying to start but had way too much fuel. Pulled the fuel pump fuse, cranked the engine again, started right up. Before she died, popped the fuse back in and let her warm up. Once she was warm, pulled the plugs, and tested compression again. 155psi for all four cylinders (much more encouraging).
Anyways, i'm getting new improved plugs tomorrow just to be safe, and a new fuel filter - just because i can and probably should at a 112K. Also she's in need of an oil change. But other than that, any ideas on how to check which cylinders are flooding and how badly? I'll be running injector cleaner in my tank on next fill as well.
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post #24 of 26 Old Dec 19th, 2012, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by always_shifting View Post
Computer spat out a P0125 code, which is apparently the engine coolant temperature sensor for closed loop fuel control. Whatever that means.
Google, WIKI, everything you just mentioned, P0125, coolant temp sensor, closed loop fuel control, it ALL ties together in this case. Read and you'll figure it out.

Quote:
Anyway, popped out the sensor, glanced around, seemed fine and resistance seemed fine when cold (though i don't know what it is supposed to be exactly).
If you feel like taking the sensor out (and probably making a mess in the process), put the sensor in the freezer for awhile, measure the resistance, put the sensor in a pan of boiling water, measure the resistance. It should be substantially less when hot.

Quote:
cranked it without plugs to test compression (70-130-90-150 for cylinders 1-2-3-4 from left to right)
The numbers are a bit low, but the engine has been sitting awhile, and all that extra fuel probably washed away any oil film on the cylinder walls. I wouldn't worry about it too much since you mention that the compression came back up later...but...it is kinda indicative of an older engine. Rings most likely aren't gone yet, but they obviously aren't new.

Quote:
Cranked the engine, i could tell it was trying to start but had way too much fuel.
And if you do the reading as stated after the first quote above, you'll see why it had way too much fuel.

Quote:
and tested compression again. 155psi for all four cylinders (much more encouraging).
When you're doing the compression checks, I'm assuming you're pulling all the plugs out first. Are you also blocking the gas pedal wide open?

Quote:
new improved plugs tomorrow just to be safe
Stock NGK plugs...or you'll be back asking more questions and the fix will be NGK plugs.

Quote:
Also she's in need of an oil change.
Which in addition to the fuel washing the oil film down the cylinder walls, old oil probably doesn't help the compression numbers there either.

Quote:
But other than that, any ideas on how to check which cylinders are flooding and how badly? I'll be running injector cleaner in my tank on next fill as well.
Read as noted above and you'll see why you'd be spinning your wheels (or not) trying to narrow it down to an individual cylinder.

Also, what did the fuel pressures read before and after it sat for awhile?

Still haven't ruled out a rotten/flaky crank sensor or cam sensor. They're a bit tough to troubleshoot without decent equipment and short of just replacing them, probably easier to rule out other causes for now.

99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.

NISSAN GOOGLE

Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?

Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.

Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?

Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"

Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???

And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)

And yes, I am diggin' it...
post #25 of 26 Old Dec 20th, 2012, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions jdg, so from my reading, and some searches on forums, i'm hearing quite a bit of talk about swapping my ETS with one from a pathy since they have higher start temperatures. Couldn't I just wire in a potentiometer to make trick the computer into thinking the engine is warmer then it is? My ETS measured out 360 ohms after running the engine for about 10 minutes, and 4,000 ohms when ice-cold after sitting for several hours at the home depot parking lot (where i work). It was 38F outside so keep that in mind. Swapped for NGK stock plugs just like you said, and replaced my fuel filter to be safe. I can get a coolant temp sensor for the pathfinder at NAPA, anyone care to confirm my research?
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post #26 of 26 Old Dec 20th, 2012, 01:05 PM
jdg
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Or you can get a Haynes manual or similar and find out if 360 ohm warm (what's warm? ran the engine for 10 minutes? How warm is it?) & 4000 ohms cold (what's cold? sat outside for a few hours? How cold is it?) is good at those temperatures.
Pot of boiling water = 212 degrees...resistance value? follow the graph
Ice water < 32 degrees...resistance value? follow the graph
Warm engine = ???...resistance value? follow the...oh...don't know the temperature
Cold engine = ???...resistance value? follow the...oh...still don't know the temperature

Sure, you could probably buy a pot to simulate the temperature sensor and try 6,000 other ways to get around the problem, or you can fix it right the first time.
Try and find a 100K+ pot with enough resolution to get any sort of accuracy at the low end....unless you buy a 25 turn log pot. Good luck finding one of those...

99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.

NISSAN GOOGLE

Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?

Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.

Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?

Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"

Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???

And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)

And yes, I am diggin' it...
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