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B14 95-99 chassis 1995-1999 Sentra and 1995-1998 200SX

       
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Old Jun 23rd, 2002, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
se7enty7
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Question 200sx clutch cable

I am sort of new here, I tried searching for this and couldn't find anything.


I just bought a 98 200sx with almost 60k on it. I just had the clutch replaced a couple days ago. With the new clutch it seems to want to "catch" with the pedal too close to the floor. In other words, I really have to push hard and all the way down to go into reverse, AND let the rpms drop. Anything else and it grinds like hell. Sometimes it grinds in 2nd (which I gather is 'common' in these cars)

My clutch cable is adjusted all the way, there are no more threads left the adjust to. For now, I have installed a rubber 'shim' that I had in my basement (amongst the junk) and it has helped, but I think I need a new cable.


So, is it common for clutch cables to stretch that much after 60k miles? I am not sure if the cable is stretched or if the guy that changed my clutch did it incorrectly. There isn't anything he could do that would cause that is there? Is it possible that my flywheel is ground down too much or something?

My main concern is that the mechanic fuxored up my clutch or something, however it doesn't grind and I don't get clutch chatter.

How difficult is it to replace the clutch cable?


Is there an adjustment on the pedal-side? (I didn't see one)


Thanks!
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Old Jun 23rd, 2002, 02:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
BORNGEARHEAD
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Replace the cable and adjust it.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2002, 03:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
se7enty7
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easier said than done...

It's sunday. Dealership is closed, and autozone, advance, or pep boys do not have it.




Any idea how much it would be?
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Old Jun 23rd, 2002, 09:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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clutch cable

when clutch cable is replaced with a new one, fully depress clutch pedal 50 times as a break-in procedure( to pre-stretch the clutch cable ), then adjust the cable, push withrawal lever by hand until a resistnace is felt, then tighten the adjusting nut, turn back adjusting nut 2.5 to 3.5 turns, and then tighten lock nut, withrawal lever play should be around 2.5 to 3.5mm, also make sure cruise control switch is also adjusted properly under the dash, by the clutch pedal mechanism.....
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Old Jun 25th, 2002, 01:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
se7enty7
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I had a 1993 acura integra gs 5 speed before this 98 200sx... The integra went from the day I bought it (15k miles, ) to 205k miles with 1 clutch and never having to replace the clutch cable. I just bought this 200sx with 60k and it needed a new clutch when I bought it AND I had to replace the clutch cable.



ALSO,
Just to help anyone else out, the haynes manual instructions DO NOT WORK if you have cruise control. There is some sort of vacuum valve you have to remove, and there are bolts underneath the wheel well to get it off. It was a bitch trying to find those bolts.


As far as adjusting the clutch, I did that. Cruise control works, I dont know/think I have to adjust anything on that?...
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Old Jul 1st, 2002, 08:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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huh???!?!?!?!?

okay...........
i think hondas use hydraulic clutch, but not sure, and vacuum valve, what car are you talking about?? also, these instructions are from the nissan 200sx holy bible, not haynes, and a whole lot of experience......
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Old Sep 30th, 2002, 09:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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how do I know

I was looking for threads on how to adjust my clutch cable. I think mine is slipping and will need to be replaced but at 33,000 That's obviously too soon for just daily driving so I'm hoping maybe a tweek or two will put me back in shape. How do I adjust. On my way to work, the car took a gang of time and high rpms to move into 1st and into 2nd. This afternoon, The problem seemed better but I could still notice a delay. Thanks. Pablo
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Old Sep 30th, 2002, 10:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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im glad someone asked this question because i am having the same problem with my car. im a n00b with cars right now and am just now starting to get into them. i got a really good deal on my se-r and bought it about a week ago and the car has like 116k on it. the previous owner had put a new racing clutch in the car and its a short shaft. anyways the car is fine when just turned on but when it gets nice and warmed up i have a hell of a time trying to get into gear, mainly just 1st and 2nd. the clutch pedal is pretty close to the floor and i was thinking that maybe the button that the pedal pushes is to far away and that its just not going all the way in but then again i have no problem getting into 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear. when i try to put it into 1st and 2nd i get some grinding no matter how hard i push down on the pedal and reverse is even worse. so after reading some of these posts im thinking now that maybe its the clutch cable or something. about how much does one of these cost? im really hoping that its just this cable and not that whoever put in the clutch didnt fook up my car. anyways any help would greatly be appreciated.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2002, 01:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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as far as the grinding in reverse.....I found it's normal in our cars unless you're at idle; as far as the grinding in second (such as when downshifting), try changing the gear oil. I switched to redline and the grinding went away.

I replaced my clutch a year ago after my cable snapped do to too much pressure from the pressure plate. The cable cost about 150 bucks including labor because of the cruise control thing mentioned earlier. Moral: if your pedal is getting stiff....have your clutch looked at early before you're stranded.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2002, 10:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Post Cable

They are notorious for stretching! They cost about $20 give or take and are pretty easy to install. My 96 WITH CRUISE took about 35 mins. to install.
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Old Nov 30th, 2002, 08:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey guys this is my first post here so go easy. My Gf's 200sx se-r is having the same problem after having her clutch replaced. I was wondering where the adjustment is for the cable. I really can't get a good look at it since it's dark out, but any help would be appreciated. thanks-James
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Old Nov 30th, 2002, 09:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Post Adjustment.

It's right behind the battery if you are looking at it from the front of the car. Loosen the lock nut, adjustment so that the arm has 1'8th of freeplay and then tighten the locknut. If you cannot get that much adjustment out of the cable that means it needs to be replaced.
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Old Nov 30th, 2002, 09:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well that's all I need for now(I hope), thanks for the quick response. I may be back to ask about replacing it tomorrow. Thanks again-James
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Old Dec 1st, 2002, 12:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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well thet did the trick for now but I think it's gonna need a new cable pretty soon, it's adjusted all the way out now and still has about 1" of play in the pedal. the pedal feels pretty rough going in if that makes any sense, so i guess there is some build up on the cable itself. It doesn't seem like the best design but who am I anyway. Thanks again for the help-James
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Old Dec 1st, 2002, 10:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
se7enty7
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dude I have the same problem.. I replaced my cable, and it took about a month before it started again. I then placed THREE washers adding a little more than an inch. That worked for about a month.. and now it catches a little bit about an inch off the floor... then stays at the same "catching power" for about halfway to 2/3'rds of the way up.. then fully engages.

pep boys did my clutch, and I am not sure what to do
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