So,
It always seems that it takes me a trip to the dealer and some money to figure out that I could have done the same thing myself for free.
You know that problem with the emissions thingamajig that hits strut bars. Well just loosen the nut that connects the doohicky to the TB assembly and rotate the emmissions contraption out of the way. Then just tighten the nut. You can now mount the strut bar as close to the TB as possible.
i believe i started that procedure somewhere in these threads, about moving the purge valve around enough to avoid the strut tower bar, but i've seen other set-ups with brackets and some sort.....hey, as long as it works........
OK,
In the lower picture there is the clearest shot. You see a grey plug into a black socket. If you look at the top picture you see that this black socket (which has hoses coming out of it) is connected to the TB by one 10mm (I think) bolt. Loosen that bolt and rotate the whole thing out of the way, or down, and it will no longer be in the way of any strut bar, as seen by the middle picture.
Yes,
You are correct, the actual throttle body is on the other side. But since it is all part of the intake manifold cast unit I called it the throttle body since you can abbreviate it ith TB and its faster. Generally when you look under the hood at the TB you see this part. I guess I should have been super specific. It is not the throttle body, just the piece of metal with the 4 cast tubes running in it on the eft side of the piece in the center of the engine bay over the first cylindar/spark plug from the left side of the engine.
They didn't install it.
I did about 7 months ago. At first it was rattleing on the emissions thingamagig. Then I took the bar off, raised the mounts and reinstalled it. It had super low clearance on the hood but at least it didn't rattle on anything in the engine bay. However now up in Montreal after it hit 40 below zero, metal shrinks. So I had clearance problems with the hood. Eventually my hood got messed up and always hit the bar when being closed. This pushed my hood up in the air on the passenger side. You can see the effect in my thread with the fog lights. So finally when I was getting an oil change and some other stuff done to my car at the dealer (defroster issues and stuff) I said could you please align the hood. They said whats wrong with it. So I went outside and showed them. I figured they could just cut away the area of the hood where the bar hits it. The tech agreeed. 4 hours later I get a phone call that they moved the valve and replaced a connecting hose to it and didn't cut the hood since the lack of structural support would make it vibrate. They replaced a hood mounting screw and also removed the whole bar to do this and reinstalled it lower in the car. The hood alignment isn't perfect but its way better.
The grand total for this bit including $10.50 CAD in parts was $105 CAD which is like $60 US. Considering how bad the hood was I figure realigning the hood was $20, moving the emissions thing was $20, repositioning the bar and parts was $20. A ripoff yes, but not by all that much, I didn't have to fiddle with it again and its a done job.
I get it now. Ok. Thanks for explaining it.
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