1996 Nissan Sentra GXE Won't Start!

BlackMagic · Mar 13th, 2008, 03:57 PM

Hey Everyone,

First and foremost I would like to thank everyone for the help they provide everyone on this site. This site has helped me a lot in the past.

Here is the problem:

My car started having this starting problem on 2/14/08. I was leaving the store and I went to start the car (it's a manual transmission) and the car didn't do anything. I thought that I didn't have the clutch pushed in so I went and tried again and it started and I drove home. The next morning, Friday, I looked at the car and noticed a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals and cables. I drove to AutoZone and they removed it. Saturday I went to start the car and it was hesitating again so I decided Monday that I would have it taken to a local shop where they can diagnose the problem. I drove it to Good Year (as they have a service repair shop there) and they told me the reason why it is having trouble starting is because the belts are so old and cracked. I've known for 2 and a half years now that the belts needed to be replaced (you can see my previous post on Alternator belt) and I examined the belts and went ahead and paid to get them replaced.

At the time I didn't think that it made sense as to what they were telling me but I know they needed it so I went ahead with it. I live about 2 miles from the shop so I drove home and I pulled up to my house and shut off the engine. Before I got out of the car I decided to restart the car just for my own piece of mind. What do you know...it won't start at all. I immediately called the shop and after 2 hours of arguing with the manager, he agreed to have my car towed to his shop the following day. He said that it is either going to be the alternator or starter so I decided to go ahead and purchase a new starter (which made more sense to me as to what the problem would be) since I have a warranty on it, I can take my old one back and they would reimburse me for the faulty starter and the labor for the shop. They looked at the car for four hours, and he called and told me that it was not only the distributor but that it is also my catalytic converter, and that my car is not getting any spark. I had my car towed home the next day and I had my mom's boyfriend look at the Sentra and he said that the timing was advanced all the way to one side and that the car does have spark.

So to make a long story short (Sorry guys) when I start the car I turn the key and I can hear the fuel pump priming, the engine cranks but it never turns over. I do not smell any fuel. Also, when the car is cranking, the instrument cluster lights dim. Any ideas?

Thanks so much everyone for any advice you give. Sorry if I do not make it clear but feel free to ask me any questions.

This is an urgent matter, as I have lost my job due to transportation issues.

Melanie

BlackMagic · Mar 14th, 2008, 01:39 PM

UPDATE:

I looked at the car this morning, I degreased the engine and noticed oil on the distributor area. I cleaned it off (without removing any parts) and I let it dry and tried to start the engine and there's a loud high pitch sound that occurs while cranking the engine. The engine does sound better though.

So after that, I decided to check the spark plugs. To my surprise, I found one of my spark plugs missing (in the second cylinder...is that what it is?) Anyway, I found it inside of my car. I don't have the tool to put in the plug right now, but my question is will a missing spark plug cause the car not to start?

IanH · Mar 14th, 2008, 07:54 PM

Well it might start with one plug missing but would run very rough.
The question i have is who removed your plug ?
Replace the plug if it looks ok and has a gap.
If not at this point buying 4 new NGK's, ordinary plain plugs, not Platinium, for $8 seems reasonable.
You need to get someone you can trust to help you with this.
I cant even tell if you really needed a starter.
Take off the distributer cap and look at the rotor, is it held down ok by the screw?
Is there water or Oil in there ?

BlackMagic · Mar 14th, 2008, 10:16 PM

Thanks for replying!

Come to look at it again, I did find all 4 spark plugs, it's just that the one I thought was missing looks completely different than mine. I have AC Denso Iridium plugs in there right now. The shop I took it to removed the plugs.

But guess what happened....I adjusted the idle a little bit and my car turned over immediately! For some reason, adjusting the idle before didn't do anything but I think the oil on the distributor was shorting out the distributor. The car runs really rough, it has an intake and an exhaust on it but right now it sounds like a dirt bike. It needs a oil change badly. I'm going to replace all four spark plugs and install new spark plug wires. I'm also going to remove the cap and check out the rotor as well.

Let me know if any of this helps you. I really appreciate your input.

Thanks!

IanH · Mar 14th, 2008, 11:24 PM

Ok did it crank ok and not start before?
Or by turn over do you mean it started up. Not being picky but I came from England and although I have been in USA for a long time still have differences in phrases
These cars are susceptible to flooding, if you start up and then shut off or just move the car 25 feet, like into or out of the garage.
There is a procedure to start if this is the problem.

BlackMagic · Mar 15th, 2008, 01:39 AM

To my knowledge turning over is when the car actually starts and the engine is running. Cranking is when the engine tries to start but can't. Before today it would just crank and crank but now it is starting. The idle is very bad and like I said, it does sound like a dirt bike. Hope this helps.

I don't think it was flooded because I drove the car home and shut off the engine. After that, I tried to start it again and nothing....this all happened on Februay 19th. After a week and a half of leaving the car alone, I was thinking today and just stared at it and thoughts came to mind and I finally got it started! But to answer your question...I don't think the engine was flooded because it was sitting almost a month. And I've read all the threads about the B14's and no start issues and followed the procedure to clear the ECU from flooding or whatever...

Thanks!

joeli16 · Mar 15th, 2008, 04:27 AM

I think your mechanic was just full of nonsense.Next time take your car to a shop specialized on mechanics,but not a tire place---yes I know they have a shop,but they are specialized for GoodYear tires.No offense.
When he changed your belts,it was actually a good time to change the alternator too,because it is also a big suspect of non-starting problem,and that time it will save some of your labor cost.When you said everything went dim,I am really positive that is your alternator dying.Go and have it replace if it is urgent.The battery is not getting enough charge to start the car.

As for the corrosion,you can go to shucks.They sell some pads that you put underneath the battery cables to prevent corrosion.It's like $2 a pack.Very useful.

And after you do all the cap,rotor,oil tune up.Get a pack of new NGK spark plugs.Your car will run MUCH better.

Also the loud pitch sound you mention,I suspect it's your idler pulley going.Have it checked.

IanH · Mar 15th, 2008, 12:14 PM

Agreed !!!
If the idle is very bad then clean the IAVC there are instructions on the forum here on this. Seems to be a fairly common problem, but mine has been ok and at 102K now.
You should check your ignition switch as well, sometimes a wont start or wont crank intermittent problem originates from the switch.
While its cranking and not starting you could try moving the wires and cables around under the hood in case you have something lose.
These intermittent problems are the worst to find.
When its bad check for a spark.( i am thinking bad coil or distributor)
Thats all I can think of right now
Good Luck.

BlackMagic · Mar 15th, 2008, 02:44 PM

Hey, sorry I didn't respond earlier, I was just too tired.

Yeah I know GoodYear doesn't specialize in car repairs but when I drove it home that day from the store when the problems first started, my car was making a really bad sound like something was rubbing whenever I would apply the brakes. Come to find out that it was a splash guard. But my point is I didn't want to drive it a far distance if it was faulty brakes (which it did not end up being). I removed the alternator, starter and battery and had all three tested and went to Auto Zone and they all ended up being good. The alternator and battery were replaced in February 2006 and the starter in March 2006.

My boyfriend is going to take me to the auto part store to buy new spark plugs and wires. Before I buy a new cap and rotor, I'm going to check out the ones on the car right now.

Where is the idler pulley and what does it do? I'll get all that done and hopefully it'll run better. Do you think the timing chain jumped? Someone told me that it sounds like it but I don't know, I think the car just needs a real good tune up. Not to sound like a complete idiot, but, what all do I need for a tune up?

I'll check the IACV too, where is that? You know what...I think that's one of the parts I replaced when I bought the car 3 years ago. I paid $1500 for it and it had 90,500 miles. Right now it's got 121,956 miles, right below 122K. I'm still winning the auction on ebay for the distributor (in working condition) for $10. So if it does end up being the distributor, I'm already one step ahead!

IanH · Mar 15th, 2008, 10:06 PM

I think its unlikely to be a timing chain jumped. the chain makes a noise when the guides wear away or tensioner gives out
Just clean the IACV, thats all anyone here does to fix idle problems caused by this. i will look and see if I can find a good thread and post a link.
The screw on the distributer rotor can come undone, its a quick check, and the Oil seal gives out causing problems. Take a look.

i think you have just aabout done one.
New plugs, wires and rotor, maybe a fuel filter.

joeli16 · Mar 16th, 2008, 01:51 AM

IACV cleaning instrustion...(Mods please sticky this thread.REALLY a common problem for GA16DE.)
http://www.nissanforums.com/b13-91-9...-pictures.html
The idler pulley is for tightening up the belt.As I remember it's the pulley next to the water pump,looking toward the engine front.It's a common problem for squeaky belt.

I have no experience with timing chain jumped.But I have read people that they advance the timing all the way,but still have detonation.The car will run very badly.It's unlikely to happen.If it does,switch another used engine will be a cheaper fix...

I think I got what you meant.Yes it's normal everything went dim when the car is CRANKING...if the alternator check out good,I suspect it's either the ignition switch which IanH suggested,or the clutch switch.

Addition to tune up list: air filter, pcv valve,transmission oil---only use GL-4 or synthetic oil,you need to change the oil every 30,000 miles to avoid losing the 5th gear.

Before you put in another distributor,get a new o-ring for it to prevent oil leaking inside,and set the timing at 10 degree after.

BlackMagic · Mar 16th, 2008, 02:45 PM

Hey,

So I start the car with no problem anymore and the instrument lights don't dim anymore. I removed the distributor cap today and checked the rotor and all screws are intact and tight. The next thing I'm going to do is check the Idle Air Control Valve.

BlackMagic · Mar 17th, 2008, 02:08 PM

I can't find the idle air control valve!

IanH · Mar 17th, 2008, 03:43 PM

try this see if it helps

BTW you can upload the Nissan FSM for free at

phatg20.net

Good Luck

BlackMagic · Mar 17th, 2008, 04:52 PM

I'm still confused, is that picture a front rear or side view? I even looked in my Haynes repair manual and I don't see the IACV.

Another thing, I have an aftermarket Tach and the tach is not showing the rpms, it just stays at zero. I'm trying to check the wiring (as it is behind the dash) but I can't figure out how to get back there (everything is behind the air conditioning and cd player).