I'm still confused, is that picture a front rear or side view? I even looked in my Haynes repair manual and I don't see the IACV.
Another thing, I have an aftermarket Tach and the tach is not showing the rpms, it just stays at zero. I'm trying to check the wiring (as it is behind the dash) but I can't figure out how to get back there (everything is behind the air conditioning and cd player).
Ok i printed the picture and went and looked under the hood.
Open the hood, move to drivers side by wheel, look over the strut towards intake manifold. about 12 inches high is where picture is taken from.
You will see the Air duct to the Air filter box and just above to the right is the IACV. its almost at the top of the assembly.
I have the cluster swap so am not the right person to help with after market Tach's but yes you are correct its a bugger to work back there.
__________________
1997 Sentra GXE w/195/50 15's and AD22VF, Tach, Halo's, Front seal, Rear SER Disc Brakes
2003 Pathfinder SE 4WD
Ex- 2001 Sunny N16 RHD (N16 Nissan Bluebird Sylphy)
Last edited by IanH : Mar 17th, 2008 at 08:23 PM.
Reason: damm spelling
I don't know if this makes any difference but the car has an intake on it. Will I still be able to find it as easily? I'll be back at my house tomorrow to work on the car. The oil is seriously overdue for a change, would that cause it to run the way it is?
Yours is a B14 so I believe the IACV is at the driver's side.It's plugged into the intake manifold,right next to the intake pipe I would say.It's on the top,so it's very easy to locate.My IACV plug has a purple color.(or yours might be black color).It's a pretty big plug you won't miss it.
Old oil makes your car sluggish,and will build up slunge too.If you have always been using conventional oil,I suggest Castrol GTX 5W-30.It's cheap and it's a very good oil.Don't switch into synthetic oil unless you have used it before.Otherwise the oil will leak out everywhere.
Also for the oil filter get the nissan one,or get a WIX or Bosch filter.DO NOT use any Fram or Pennzoil filter.
I have a 1999 Sentra that I bought used with 60K miles on it. After about a week it wouldn't start one day. I was pissed but I tried it the next day and it started right up! Then it wouldn't start again, so I called the dealership.
The guy at the dealership knew exactly what was wrong. He told me to get it started I need to floor it and hold the starter on for about a minute until it starts. He was right! After about 40 seconds it started to get life and then it started a few second later. He then told me that every time I start the car I need to push the gas pedal in a little bit and I won't have a problem. He was right about that too. 5 year and 80K miles later it will start every time if I hit the gas a little bit. The only problem is once every 18 months or so I don't do it right and have to hold the starter on.
I have done more research on it and I found that this is supposedly only a problem at high altitude, which would make sense because I live in Denver. I also read it can be fixed via a modified Power Control Module. I called a dealer about that and they say that is not a repair Nissan does, but I may be able to get that done aftermarket. Does anybody have any idea what is involved in getting a modified PCM?
Well I got the starting problem fixed. I have a small valve cover leak and the oil got on the distributor making it unable to start. The problem I have now is that the car runs really badly and it sounds like it's clogged. I haven't been at home so I haven't been able to check out the car yet.
Okay guys, I'm at home right now and I'm working on the car. I got the IACV off (but I was unable to remove the wiring harness from it). I see a little bit of black build up, can I still spray in the carb cleaner with the harness attached? Is it okay to try to start the car without the IACV in?
Also, for the tach issue, I don't know what is wrong. I can't remove my dash to get back there to see where all the wires are and which go where. Help!
Okay I cleaned out the IACV. It runs a little tiny bit better, but when I apply the gas, it still sounds like a dirtbike. I don't know what to try next. There was barely any carbon on the IACV.
hello again, i wrote a reply earlier today and it didn't post, sorry.
The wire for the tach is probably joined to the ECU at the bottom of the center stack. there is a wire there that is used for the non-tach to tach cluster conversion, I very much doubt you have to pull the cluster out. Look for added wiring. Also under hood around the distributer.
Someone who has added an after market tach please help.
I don't understand your description of the noise, is the exhaust pipe damaged ?
__________________
1997 Sentra GXE w/195/50 15's and AD22VF, Tach, Halo's, Front seal, Rear SER Disc Brakes
2003 Pathfinder SE 4WD
Ex- 2001 Sunny N16 RHD (N16 Nissan Bluebird Sylphy)
Well I got the starting problem fixed. I have a small valve cover leak and the oil got on the distributor making it unable to start. The problem I have now is that the car runs really badly and it sounds like it's clogged. I haven't been at home so I haven't been able to check out the car yet.
So you get a new valve cover gasket and it still runs bad?You mean it is kinda sluggish?I suggest a new fuel filter and pcv valve.
I tried all day to disconnect the dash paneling so I can look at the wiring but I couldn't pry the covers off of the top of the dash to remove the paneling. I followed all the directions in my Haynes manual and still no luck. I checked the wire that goes from te tach to the distributor and its plugged in, so I'm suspecting that the problem is on the inside of the car, behind the dash. Next time I am able to borrow a car to work on my car I will check what you suggest IF I can get behind the freakin' dash!
The only way that I can describe the noise is I start the car (which is no longer a problem) and the idle is very rough, and it sounds like there's something rattling, and if I push on the gas, the car gets a little bit louder but it sounds like a dirt bike when you rev it up. I looked at my exhaust pipe and it looks fine.
Also....I was thinking...before I brought the car into the shop, it was running fine. When I got it back (after it was broken down) I noticed they put in different spark plugs, and a different battery. Is it possible that the problem could be the gap on my spark plugs?? I've adjusted the distributor while the car has been running and it seems to run best when it is at the line (which was already drawn on the distributor). I don't have a spark plug socket, but I do have all of my spark plugs (which they removed), so I guess when I get to my car next time, I can just put my plugs in and see if it runs any better.
Joeli16:
I didn't get a new valve cover gasket, all I did was degrease the engine and noticed a lot of oil on my distributor. I cleaned it off and after everything was dry, to my surprise, my car started. I think I will replace the fuel filter as well, where is the pcv valve and what does it do? How do you know if it needs to be replaced?
I tried all day to disconnect the dash paneling so I can look at the wiring but I couldn't pry the covers off of the top of the dash to remove the paneling. I followed all the directions in my Haynes manual and still no luck. I checked the wire that goes from te tach to the distributor and its plugged in, so I'm suspecting that the problem is on the inside of the car, behind the dash. Next time I am able to borrow a car to work on my car I will check what you suggest IF I can get behind the freakin' dash!
Ok slow down a bit. If the tach wire is joined at the distributor Ok then next thing to check is the power. You should have a 12V and ground coming off this Tach. Check where they go to and check for an added fuse at or near one end of the 12V wire.
To get the cluster out or get to the radio and the little bin out ?
The only way that I can describe the noise is I start the car (which is no longer a problem) and the idle is very rough, and it sounds like there's something rattling, and if I push on the gas, the car gets a little bit louder but it sounds like a dirt bike when you rev it up. I looked at my exhaust pipe and it looks fine.
Now you are worring me that you have changed the timing without a timing light and putting the eCU in the correct mode to set it. There is a thread on how to do this. Do you have a timing light? does it seem like it is running on all 4 cylinders ?
Also....I was thinking...before I brought the car into the shop, it was running fine. When I got it back (after it was broken down) I noticed they put in different spark plugs, and a different battery. Is it possible that the problem could be the gap on my spark plugs?? I've adjusted the distributor while the car has been running and it seems to run best when it is at the line (which was already drawn on the distributor). I don't have a spark plug socket, but I do have all of my spark plugs (which they removed), so I guess when I get to my car next time, I can just put my plugs in and see if it runs any better.
I will not trust the plugs that those people put in.You should go to an auto shop and buy a pack of NGK G-power plugs.They are made with platinum so you don't have to gap them.Or you can get NGK V-power normal plugs and gap them at 0.043mm.
When you take the dash out,you have to remove the plastic trim in the front.There are four bolts holding the plastic trim.Two of them are at the top,right in front of the dash,one underneath the dimmer switch, and one next to the center console.You can find them easily.Before you take the trim out,you have to first unbolt the two top bolts of the center console.They locate under the center air vent.Because the center console is holding the plastic trim up so you can't get it out without unbolt the console.
After removing all the stuff,you will see there are four bolts for the dash.Unbolt them and you are done taking the dash out.
You need to get a new O-ring for the distributor now!I feel like the o-ring is toasted and can't seal up the distributor from the oil.When you take the distributor out,you will see there is an oil seal on the distributor at the place where it attaches to the engine.If you change that but there is still oil,replace the valve cover gasket.
I suggest you adjust the distributor back to the line.If you adjust too much without the timing light,you will have detonation.You will hear a pinging noise (kind of like a rattling noise).It is the piston moving side ways.It will destroy the piston in the long run.
The pcv valve locates at the top of the valve cover,close to the second plug wire,at the back side.You will see there is a hose going to the throttle body.You just need to take the hose off and unscrew the pcv valve out.It's like a 5-minute job.It ensures continual evacuation of gases.
Last edited by joeli16 : Mar 28th, 2008 at 09:48 PM.
Reason: typo
So I got back to my house today and looked at the car. Where the second spark plug is, there was a rust color liquid on the wire and around the plug. I tried to dry it up, and then I let the engine idle. It still idles rough (I'm not sure if it is as rough as previously) and I pressed the accelerator and it still feels and sounds like there is no power. So I was letting the car warm up and I walked behind the car and saw that same rust color liquid coming out of the tailpipe. I took a picture.
Here's the link, let me know if it doesn't work. Thanks.
Oh no that's not good.It looks like coolant leaked into the engine and mixed with oil.With your evidence of the rusty looking liquid in the exhaust,I think you have a blown head gasket.That's why you have all kinds of trouble of not starting and very rough idle.
Check your coolant and oil,if any one has the same milky looking fluid.I am positive your head gasket is blown...
It's very strange to have this liquid around the plug...I have read people had coolant leaked around the plug inside and nobody knew why.Before suspecting the head gasket,you should change the valve cover gasket and the gasket for the plugs.They are in one set and cost around $30 and shouldn't be hard to change.
You can also take your car to a shop to have a leak-down test to see if there is head gasket leakage.
Last edited by joeli16 : Apr 11th, 2008 at 01:44 AM.
Oh no that's not good.It looks like coolant leaked into the engine and mixed with oil.With your evidence of the rusty looking liquid in the exhaust,I think you have a blown head gasket.That's why you have all kinds of trouble of not starting and very rough idle.
Check your coolant and oil,if any one has the same milky looking fluid.I am positive your head gasket is blown...
It's very strange to have this liquid around the plug...I have read people had coolant leaked around the plug inside and nobody knew why.Before suspecting the head gasket,you should change the valve cover gasket and the gasket for the plugs.They are in one set and cost around $30 and shouldn't be hard to change.
You can also take your car to a shop to have a leak-down test to see if there is head gasket leakage.
Excellent advice although I don't understand why the exhaust and liquid around plugs is rust colored when there isn't much iron in these engines these days. Could this just be condensation and rust from the exhaust.
So yes before jumping into a major tear down check the coolant, what color is it? Has someone added sealer ( usually brown !!) Does it have Oil sheen on top?
Is oil a nice brown or black ? No white froth or coolant drops?
If you have a compression tester test the compression, don't forget to hold the throttle open when cranking.
__________________
1997 Sentra GXE w/195/50 15's and AD22VF, Tach, Halo's, Front seal, Rear SER Disc Brakes
2003 Pathfinder SE 4WD
Ex- 2001 Sunny N16 RHD (N16 Nissan Bluebird Sylphy)
Linear Mode
