Brake Issue

GA16DE · Jan 5th, 2008, 06:21 PM

I just replaced my front rotors and calipers with AD22VFs, and realized that I had to bleed the brakes. Well, after bleeding them several times and still not seeing any air bubbles coming out, I get ready to take it for a test drive and find that the pedal is still soft. Even after pumping it several times, I still have to press the pedal almost all the way to the floor for the brakes to really engage and not just turn on my brake lights. My dad and I both haven't seen any fluid leaking out whenever we were bleeding it, so I don't think it's because I have a leak somewhere.

Is there air trapped in my master cylinder, or something far worse? My car goes into the shop on Tuesday for some other things (keeps throwing a code almost every time I come home from school) and was wondering if I could get it fixed before it went in or ask them to check it for me. Thanks in advance!

sentracraze · Jan 5th, 2008, 09:12 PM

did you tighten the cylinder??and off coarse or atleast i hope you loosened the bolt where you bleed the fluid.
cuz what ur describing is that you popped the elastic bands in the master cylinder.which is a problem but not such a big one

IanH · Jan 6th, 2008, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GA16DE

I just replaced my front rotors and calipers with AD22VFs, and realized that I had to bleed the brakes. Well, after bleeding them several times and still not seeing any air bubbles coming out, I get ready to take it for a test drive and find that the pedal is still soft. Even after pumping it several times, I still have to press the pedal almost all the way to the floor for the brakes to really engage and not just turn on my brake lights. My dad and I both haven't seen any fluid leaking out whenever we were bleeding it, so I don't think it's because I have a leak somewhere.

Is there air trapped in my master cylinder, or something far worse? My car goes into the shop on Tuesday for some other things (keeps throwing a code almost every time I come home from school) and was wondering if I could get it fixed before it went in or ask them to check it for me. Thanks in advance!

Are the bleed nipples pointed UP ?
Did you also bleed the rear. IE follow the bleed rotation specified. Air can get trapped otherwise.
My AD22VF's are great.

GA16DE · Jan 6th, 2008, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sentracraze

did you tighten the cylinder??and off coarse or atleast i hope you loosened the bolt where you bleed the fluid.

What do you mean by cylinder? And yes, we loosened the bleed nipples when we bled them.

Quote:

Are the bleed nipples pointed UP ?
Did you also bleed the rear. IE follow the bleed rotation specified. Air can get trapped otherwise.

I'll go check here shortly to make sure that the bleed nipples are pointed up (I assume you are wanting to make sure the calipers are on the correct sides? If so, I followed the L and R on the calipers when I went to put them on). And my dad didn't think we would need to bleed the rear, so I'll have him help me with that after church.

I'll post updates when I get things checked and hope that I can get this straightened out.

EDIT: I just went and checked, and yes, the bleed nipples are pointed up.

GA16DE · Jan 6th, 2008, 04:33 PM

Well, we bled the rear as well until we got no more air bubbles (got quite a few from the driver side drum) and the pedal still feels soft. Unless we missed something else, looks like we have the shop check it when it goes in Tuesday. I appreciate the help.

azkicker0027 · Jan 6th, 2008, 04:33 PM

a friend of mine accidentally installed the calipers upside down so the bleeder screws were pointing down. we flipped them around and were able to bleed his brakes properly.
some people also say that you might have to upgrade your brake master cylinder for the AD22VF's but it depends on model year and such.

GA16DE · Jan 6th, 2008, 04:34 PM

Well, it's a 1999 GXE Limited Edition, so it had 9.8" x 18 mm rotors on there before. Going up ~.3" in diameter and 8 mm in thickness shouldn't make it need the new master cylinder, should it? I would think the ones that had the 9.1" diameter rotors would.

IanH · Jan 6th, 2008, 08:05 PM

my 97 had the 9.1 brakes and the master cylinder is ok, yes it goes down a bit further and is very sensitive, but OK
have you drivebn the car yet?

GA16DE · Jan 6th, 2008, 09:35 PM

Yeah, I took it for a quick run through the neighborhood and they are very sensitive once you get pressure, but the pedal went at least halfway down to the floor (if not a little further) before I got any response/pressure back from the pedal.

IanH · Jan 6th, 2008, 11:44 PM

Yes, thats not right.
Well i suggest you are not finished bleeding them yet.
Check the FSM for the correct order to bleed them.
Good luck.

Jopet · Nov 1st, 2009, 09:37 PM

Hi. I Mr. stupid right now. I need some help. I assumed that the bleeder screw loosens anti-clock wise? I want to be sure because I just rounded the hex on the bleeder screw on my front passengers side and broke the driver side bleeder. I was replacing the brake fluid and I didnt have any problems with the rears. The thing is, the fronts my brother and I bled less than a year ago and I cant figure out why I cant turn the screw. the thing just wont budge. I sprayed wd40 on the screws but to no avail. I didnt care if they broke because I do have replacements ready. Its just not my last quarter of the year

IanH · Nov 1st, 2009, 11:47 PM

its a normal RH thread, so yes anti-clockwise

Jopet · Nov 3rd, 2009, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IanH

its a normal RH thread, so yes anti-clockwise

thanks for the quick reply. I could be replacing the calipers as the bleeder screws really won't budge. The brakes still work fine anyway and the cold is already here. Not sure if we can still work outdoors. It will be a good chance to paint the calipers as well. Would you recommend new ones or used is as good enough?

IanH · Nov 3rd, 2009, 12:33 PM

Well its decision time.
Depends what you mean by used? used 10- 12 yr old parts with rubber seals may not be a good idea. maybe replace the seals.
Rebuilt exchange parts are OK.

What yr and model do you have?

There are 9.1 inch, 9.7-9.7 inch and 10.1 inch brakes available for our cars.

The 10.1 are thicker as well, and came on the 2000NX japan built 1993 with ABS. These fit.
These are called AD22VF brakes. I have them on my soon to be scraped SE-R, rebuilts purchased in 2004 or so.
The stock SE-R brakes are the 9.7 -9.8 and I have a set in my garage.
So if you are interested in these let me know quick before the car is hauled away.

Jopet · Nov 3rd, 2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IanH

Well its decision time.
Depends what you mean by used? used 10- 12 yr old parts with rubber seals may not be a good idea. maybe replace the seals.
Rebuilt exchange parts are OK.

What yr and model do you have?

There are 9.1 inch, 9.7-9.7 inch and 10.1 inch brakes available for our cars.

The 10.1 are thicker as well, and came on the 2000NX japan built 1993 with ABS. These fit.
These are called AD22VF brakes. I have them on my soon to be scraped SE-R, rebuilts purchased in 2004 or so.
The stock SE-R brakes are the 9.7 -9.8 and I have a set in my garage.
So if you are interested in these let me know quick before the car is hauled away.

I have a 95 B14 GXE. stock brakes, no ABS. I cant really afford that kind of an upgrade right now. My car budget was drained by all the sensors and cat replacement. I was supposed to buy coilovers but the car needed repairs. Will you not take the good parts out before they haul out the car? I might have some money in a few weeks, but definitely not now.
TY