Step by step instructions -Upper Timing Chain Tensioner - Page 3 - Nissan Forum
B14 95-99 chassis 1995-1999 Sentra and 1995-1998 200SX

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#31 Old Mar 1st, 2010, 09:58 PM
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Would anybody be kind enough to re-post the installation pictures?? thanks
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#32 Old Mar 11th, 2010, 04:22 AM
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the engine brace i had setup to support the engine. a floor jack from the bottom would also suffice.

a closer look at the general area where the tensioner is at when the valve cover is removed.


comparison between the new unit(left) and old(right), with the worn plastic guide.

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#33 Old Mar 22nd, 2010, 07:49 PM
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how do you know when the tensioner needs replacing. I can hear the valves tick but most high mileage cars will do that. I have 157k miles on it now. It prob was never replaced. also does anyone have the p/n? someone re-host the pictures.

Last edited by dfresh; Mar 22nd, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
#34 Old Apr 8th, 2010, 09:07 AM
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It can be hard to tell. One way to check is to take off your valve cover and just take a look with a flash light and you'll see it.

I saw mine has been worn out to the bare metal and I need to replace it soon. It's got 234k miles.

Seeing that you have 157k miles, it would good to just check and see.

thanks for posting the pictures azkicker
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#35 Old Apr 18th, 2010, 08:38 AM
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Hi just bought a 97 Sentra 5 speed pretty decent condtion for 800.00 , has 148k on it interior is excleeeeeeeeeent, engine compartment looks all orginal, except of a cooling fan. Going to replace plugs and wires, I checking the linkage between the spark wires and throtel cable and got a mild shock,, hehe
Anyway driving the car for about a week now 58 miles round trip and im getting about 36mpg. Speed about 60mph only 3 stop signs and 2 traffic lights.
Im I would say better than average at changing things out but never tackled a timing chain tensioner. I only have the basic membership so I dont think I can add photos so would anyone like to post them for me? And possibly give me a shout out if they see something that look wrong. I bought the car mainly for fuel milage, did the math and the car should pay for itself in about year or less so to me its a good move. Have a 92 S10 blazer and 01 S10 blazer.
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#36 Old Apr 18th, 2010, 05:34 PM
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Got the tensioner out

Well I debated on messing with this, but then took the plunge
The valve cover is simple to take off
Next went ahead and removed the power steering oil reserve, sort of pain but no big deal
Next I took off the brace 3 bolts piece of cake
Then the engine mount.. sort of tough but just take your time.
Put a floor jack and a 2x4 about 10 inches long under the oil pan and just put some presure on it to hold the engine in place
Next was the cover a just a few bolts and and off it came
Then 2 bolts to the tensioner and a little wiggling and it was out.
Took about a hour or so
Got the new one ordered so should be here in 3 or so days
took photos of all the steeps and close ups of parts.
Anyone needs some shoot me a email.
My tensioner looked like it might have gone a few more miles it was just starting to rub on the metal. Im glad I am going to get this replaced.
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#37 Old Apr 25th, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Looked @ pointer on timing cover but @ TDC crank pulley timing marks no where near the fwd side of the pulley....1996 sentra w 1.6 dohc l4.....I'm i looking in the wrong spot?
#38 Old May 23rd, 2010, 04:04 PM
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finally replace my upper timing chain tensioner ( with a big help from my brother). And what a big difference. No more noise. I would have posted the pic of my worn ouit part, but I cant seem to find the button to do so.
Just a note, I know I read it in this forum somewhere, someone replaced his spark plug seals, I believe are not replaceable. I cant figure out what I ordered. It came with the valve cover gasket. Anyone planning to replace the spark plug seals, dont. The seals are lodged between the valve cover and an inner cover for the baffle. There is no way to remove the inner cover unless you want to break it.
Well, this is what I have on my car. It could be that there are several kinds of valve cover. for the ga16de
#39 Old May 23rd, 2010, 11:06 PM
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Although the noise is about the same because my original tensioner was not down to the metal, it is giving more tension to my timing chain. From that I'm noticing my car is more responsive and 'tighter'.

If you know someone with air tools (air-ratchet), and more tools than you, then I suggest you use them. Those motor mount bolts are a pain to get off. You also need to remove the cooling tank reservoir and it's bracket that holds it to take that long motor mount bolt out completely.
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#40 Old Jun 4th, 2010, 11:31 PM
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I just replaced mine at 275,000kms and the worn upper timing chain tensioner pic from azkicker0027 looks exactly like mine. It was also worn down to the metal. Luckily, not a lot of wear on the timing chain.

Also, here's a note to save you some time: I didn't remove the engine mount though as you can actually get to the bolt above the engine mount with patience and then slide the cover off with a little jiggling.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't forget to pull the pin off the new upper timing chain tensioner. =)
#41 Old Oct 15th, 2010, 05:11 PM
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This is the way I did it on my car, I already posted the following in another post but here it is:


No valve head removal required!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In my experience all you have to remove is the following: damper pulley, water pump, motor mount, valve cover, valve left side cover, oil pan, oil pump filter, maniform and power steering pump.

Then the oil pump will come out easily. be careful, there is a bolt holding the pump in place, it pretty hidden, its on the left top side of the oil pump, in my experience I broke the oil pump in that corner, lucky me it was only that part and no compression escape from there. I try to glue it back with epoxy but didnt stay in place so I remove the broken peace and put epoxy in the top left side of the cover, It didnt really need it but just to be safe I put some there.

In my opinion the chain could had lasted atleast 200 thousand miles easily, all that is required to change in these engine are the top and lower tensors!!!! and you problem should be solve.

AMEN!!!!!
#42 Old Oct 24th, 2010, 11:39 PM
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Another post about the upper (and lower and everything else) timing chain tensioner replacement...
I bought a complete kit off eBay awhile back. The only other things I had to buy were the valve cover and oil pan gaskets.
Car is a '98 200SX-SE GA16DE w/ M/T, 167K miles. It's been rattling for about the last 10K miles. About time I started swapping parts.
Didn't need to remove the intake manifold like the Haynes manual said.
(I'm sure I've forgotten a dozen parts here and there in this description, so don't think of this as a 'be all end all' when replacing pieces/parts)
Removed:
-(sprayed down the exhaust bolts below the cat with penetrating spray)
-valve cover
-upper/right motor mount and brace (propped the motor up at the front of the A/C pump bracket)
-unbolted the power steering line bracket (front/right strut tower, makes getting to the p/s pump bolts a lot easier)
-(sprayed down the exhaust bolts below the cat with penetrating spray)
-removed the drivebelts (alternator bolts are a bit of pain but not impossible)
-loosened up the p/s pump brackets and removed a couple of bolts that went into the timing chain cover
-water pump out (no need to remove the thermostat housing but if you're already in there, why not replace the thermostat anyways?)
-did I mention I sprayed the exhaust bolts below the cat with penetrating spray? I did this off and on for a few days while still driving it thinking they'd be a pig to take off
-dropped the exhaust from the downpipe coming from the cat, just kinda pushed it out of the way, no need to totally disconnect it
-removed the front and rear engine-transmission braces
-pulled the oil pan (gotta remove those braces to get to the last two/four bolts holding it on
-crank pulley pulled off (no need for crazy pullers, just wiggled it, tapped it with a rubber mallet, came right off)
-upper timing chain cover off (make double/triple sure you get ALL of the bolts out of there!!!)
-removed the intake and exhaust gears (be careful or you'll end up breaking the ridge at the end of the cam like I did! Don't whack on it! Use steady pressure to break the bolt loose and use a 2nd wrench on the cam to hold it in place)


-some light prying with a long screwdriver, some wiggling back and forth, and the timing chain cover came right off.

I think I got lucky though. The bottom of the head gasket looks like it's in really good shape, nice and smooth, and I should be able to get a good seal at the top of the timing chain cover with a minimum of gasket goop spread out up there.

After 167K miles, the upper timing chain tensioner looked just like the one in the picture above, metal showing, bits and pieces missing, etc. The lower chain tensioners had minimal wear and looked like they could go another couple hundred thousand miles more. The chains were in great shape...but...
While I was looking in there, the idler sprocket had 3 teeth on it that were chipped which is why I tore into the whole thing rather than just replacing the upper tensioner.
I didn't need to disconnect the oil pump pickup tube from the timing chain cover.
I'm also debating on whether or not to replace the oil pump since I've got it out. The water pump is getting replaced even though it worked just fine before the teardown. Cheap insurance in my mind.
Don't forget to drain the radiator (pop the bleeder screw next to the thermostat after you get started!) and the oil.

99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.

NISSAN GOOGLE

Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?

Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.

Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?

Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"

Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???

And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)

And yes, I am diggin' it...
#43 Old Nov 30th, 2010, 11:39 AM
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I did this job last week. I used this thread to guide me but most of it was wrong. I dont know how different our B14 are by years but this is how I did it on my 96 Sentra GXE.

No need to remove power steering reserve or relay box. Some people said you dont have to remove the motor mount? WTF? Although it is true you dont have to remove it but you do have to remove the 3 bolts. First I removed the one bolt on the motor mount that is next to the bolt that removes the plate to reveal the chain. Although I did have the plate lose and at one point it even looked like it was going to come out without removing the motor mount, it didnt. Only remove the 3 bolts holding the mount to the engine and wiggle the mount to the side. That will give you enough room to get the plate off. And again no need to remove the power steering reserve or relay box! Took me 2 hours to do and that was taking my time. I can probably do it again in a hour.

PS... although probably not necessary I wet the new chain tensioner with engine oil. Added some inside the small hole just to get things lubed in there. Some people claimed that their new tensioner was getting stuck and it probably was cause it need to be lubed like I did. Didnt want to take a chance and just did. Takes 2 minutes to do.

I rate this job a 3/10. Easy to do..any questions feel free to ask me!

Last edited by Custom3; Nov 30th, 2010 at 11:42 AM.
#44 Old Apr 4th, 2011, 03:42 PM
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So looking through this thread it appears that there are two methods to doing this. Some people take just the top off like the valve cover and top timinng chain cover and this last post with video seems to say they take all the pulleys, water pump, oil pan, etc off. Do you really need to take all that stuff off to do the top?
#45 Old Apr 4th, 2011, 07:15 PM
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You only need to do that if you need to replace the whole timing chain and lower tensioners.

That's only if you have a serious problem already.

Replacing the upper timing chain helps in prolonging the life of the chain by having it run nice and tight and not loose and rub against metal. It doesn't require all of that, but I would check the water pump if you can just as a precautionary measure.
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