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B14 95-99 chassis 1995-1999 Sentra and 1995-1998 200SX

       
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Old Jun 16th, 2007, 01:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
happykorn
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What prices should i expect for both Ball Joints?

i went for a alignment today and the guy said i needed a left ball joint badly and should replace the right one to since i've been driving on the bad one awhile. He gave me a quote of around $690. How bad is that, or good, and what price range should i look for? I will be going to a few dealers and asking about their prices since i would rather get it done there, but what should the typical price range be for this?
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Old Jun 16th, 2007, 02:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
R3DN1CK
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Nissan does not service the ball joints, you have to buy a lower control arm. They list for $145, but you can get them for 20% less from nissanpartscheap.com, or if you have a press you can buy the ball joints from napa for about $40 ea.
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Old Jun 16th, 2007, 06:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
captain_shrapnel
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I pressed my own BJ's. $40 x2, and Autozone has a free tool loan program. It isn't too hard, if you have a few of the other tools you need.
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Old Jun 16th, 2007, 09:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
happykorn
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ok then if i do get the joints from autozone and get a loaner tool, what other tools besides basic tools would i need to replace the control arms and about how long?? would it be easily done underneath a car using a jack and not a lift? it seems like a pretty easy job after looking at the haynes manual, but the manual says it's best to replace the whole thing if the bad ball joint does any sorta damage to the arm, i've been on this bad joint a while now so should i just replace the whole thing then?

Last edited by happykorn : Jun 16th, 2007 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 01:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
Tavel
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$700 is ridiculous for that job. I had mine replaced for about $200 at a local mechanic.

If you decide to do it yourself, get the whole arm. Pressing parts in isn't much fun in the garage. (I know, i pressed my bearings myself...bleh). Plus, it probably won't cost much more, will replace all the possible worn parts, and will save a lot of install time.
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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 02:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
captain_shrapnel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happykorn
ok then if i do get the joints from autozone and get a loaner tool, what other tools besides basic tools would i need to replace the control arms and about how long?? would it be easily done underneath a car using a jack and not a lift? it seems like a pretty easy job after looking at the haynes manual, but the manual says it's best to replace the whole thing if the bad ball joint does any sorta damage to the arm, i've been on this bad joint a while now so should i just replace the whole thing then?

Off the top of my head for tools besides the BJ press:

Snap ring pliers
Large pry bar (to lift the knuckle off the ball joint)
Pickle fork (cheap to buy at harbor frieght, but can also be loaned from Autozone. Get different sizes to be sure one works)
Some metric sockets and wrenches
Some needlenose pliers/vise grips/or diagonal cutters to pull out cotter pins
Maybe new cotter pins

I couldn't say how long it took me, cuz I did them with a clutch replacement. If had to guess, 1-2 hours depending on tools and experience. Maybe less. Its very easy if you are mechanically inclined at all. I would not change the arm personally, because so far I have never run into a car that needed to go that far. You can easily do this job with the front of the car on jack stands. I am recalling from memory, and I had to pull my driveshafts for the clutch change anyhow, but to the best of my recollection it goes something like this:

Put the front of the car on jackstands and pull the wheels off.

Loosen the nut on top of the ball joint. It will not come off completely, because part of the arm is in the way. Just get it up as high as you can.

Remove the snap rings, or at least get them up out of the way.

Use the pickle fork to break the taper lock loose on the BJ.

Once the BJ drops down some get the nut and the snap ring off.

Get someone to use the pry bar to get the ball joint out of its fitting in the knuckle. Move knuckle out of the way. The BJ should be exposed, still pressed in its seat.

Take the big C-clamp looking press you borrowed from the parts store. Eyeball the fittings in the kit until you find an arrangement that fits your ball joint reasonably well. Press it out. It should be pretty easy, if it isn't check to make sure the fittings from the press arent binding on anything.

Put new BJ in the arm and install the snap ring to hold it in place. I can't remember if we had to press it in with the clamp or not, you'll figure it out when you see it. It should seat snuggly, without any slop. If there is slop, compare the new BJ to the old one to make sure the parts store gave you the right one (gave me the wrong ones once). If they are right, return them and get the arms... you know you need them now.

Use pry bar to get the new BJ's into the knuckle (be careful of damaging the threads!). Once its through, keep a little force on the pry bar to allow you to get the new nut started. Once its on far enough to remove the prybar, tighten down the nut to seat the taper lock. Install cotter pin if needed (some use castle nuts, some have ny-lock nuts, ymmv).

Install wheels, remove jack, and your done. I think you need an alignment afterwards, I did but I also did my tie rod ends at the same time (both used ball joint press).

If I messed something up, someone please let me know. I was doing a bunch of things at once and I may have missed a step in this write up.
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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 06:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
happykorn
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thanks for the write up

My dad is flipping because i am going on a trip in 2 weeks and wants me to be as safe as possible since this is my first vacation without my parents so he is just gonna pay for the dealership to replace the whole arm, from which i understand shouldn't be that much for one arm. I am only going to get one done, unless they tell me the other requires it too. I prefer to do everything myself but if he's paying i'm not arguing... Thanks Guys
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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 11:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
slickser24
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i replace both of mine 2 times for about $20 a joint so 600 is way overpriced.
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Old Mar 29th, 2008, 04:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
maroonsentra
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Originally Posted by slickser24 View Post
i replace both of mine 2 times for about $20 a joint so 600 is way overpriced.
How hard is this?
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Old Mar 30th, 2008, 11:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
slickser24
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How hard is this?
its not that hard. if you have all the right it should go smooth. the most difficult part is getting the new one in.
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