I know changing the front pads is easy, but how hard is it for the rear shoes? I only got basic tools and I watched my friend changed once before. Seems the adjusters and springs are hard to re-install!
any tips? Thanks!
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Do you know anyone spell their name "Angella" in double L?
it is a b***h to install, but you'll be saving some money so that is all that matters right? though you might think about changing to rear discs, cost almost 400 now for 15 minute changes in the future...
i didnt think it to be mean, i could have said it worse, but if it offends anyone i appologize but it makes sense right? if you watched someone do it, then have them help you right?
i didnt think it to be mean, i could have said it worse, but if it offends anyone i appologize but it makes sense right? if you watched someone do it, then have them help you right?
unfortunately he left town already. But if it is easier than install the shocks and springs, I think I can handle it. I just wanna know is there anything I should keep my eyes open when changing the shoes. Thanks!
btw, what knid of brand do you guys use for the brake shoes?
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Do you know anyone spell their name "Angella" in double L?
i didnt think it to be mean, i could have said it worse, but if it offends anyone i appologize but it makes sense right? if you watched someone do it, then have them help you right?
unfortunately he left town already. But if it is easier than install the shocks and springs, I think I can handle it. I just wanna know is there anything I should keep my eyes open when changing the shoes. Thanks!
btw, what knid of brand do you guys use for the brake shoes?
__________________
Do you know anyone spell their name "Angella" in double L?
1. only take apart ONE SIDE AT A TIME. If you mess up, just look at the other side to see how everything goes together.
2. You'll want to remove the wheel hub to give easier access to the springs and such. (this applies to the b14 only)
- Break the lug nuts and lift the car
- Remove the wheel
- Pop the center cap off with a hammer (hitting as tangent to the surface as possible. Hit it "outward", if you know what i mean). one or two hits should pop it right off. You might need to remove the brake drum to get a better angle, you decide.
- Put the wheel (and brake drum) back on and hand tighten lugs, lower the car
- Loosen the axle nut. you'll need to buy a 32mm socket or rent one somewhere. (Double check the size before buying!)
You'll also need a breaker bar and a length of pipe at least 3 ft long. You're going to slide the pipe onto the breaker bar to add leverage, so the pipe needs to be large enough and made of STEEL. A length of gas pipe should be good. The axle nut is tightened to something like 80 ft/lbs, so you'll definitely need the 3 ft of leverage.
Also try to remember the force required to break the nut, you'll need to apply a similar force to tighten it again. You don't want to gorilla tighten it in the end, but it does need to be fairly tight.
- Lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the brake drum, remove the axle nut and wheel hub
- get to work (remember tip no. 1!!!)
In the infamous words of haynes, "installation is the reverse of removal".
It sounds tedious, and it is...but it makes the job SO much easier.
3. You can get the cheapest brand of brake shoes. rear drum brakes don't do much of anything (maybe 5% of the braking? lol), so you won't see any differences between brands.
4. Don't spend $400 to convert to rear discs. Drum brakes aren't nearly difficult enough to justify that kind of cost. (Plus, this is probably the last time you'll replace them anyway!)
Thanks for the write up, Tavel.
I used to tighten the shoes myself, but removal seems hard becuase of the spring and hand brake wire. I will do that tmr. Thanks again for the guide.
__________________
Do you know anyone spell their name "Angella" in double L?
Thanks for the write up, Tavel.
I used to tighten the shoes myself, but removal seems hard becuase of the spring and hand brake wire. I will do that tmr. Thanks again for the guide.
There is a tool at the auto shops to help install the springs.
I ruined my torque wrench tightening the axle nut. use a scale type, the one with a pointer. cheap and you wont break it.
good luck.
I've always left the hub intact when I replace shoes. I just use a hold down spring remover and a pair of dikes ( diagonal cutters) to remove the other springs.
I've always left the hub intact when I replace shoes. I just use a hold down spring remover and a pair of dikes ( diagonal cutters) to remove the other springs.
yeah. You don't have to remove them (Haynes manual says nothing about it). I just recommend it because it makes it SO much easier to use normal (as in "standard equipment") tools like lock jaws to reconnect the springs.
It took me an hour of frustrated grunts to realize that removing the hubs was the way to go...I was done 10 minutes later.
1. only take apart ONE SIDE AT A TIME. If you mess up, just look at the other side to see how everything goes together.
2. You'll want to remove the wheel hub to give easier access to the springs and such. (this applies to the b14 only)
- Break the lug nuts and lift the car
- Remove the wheel
- Pop the center cap off with a hammer (hitting as tangent to the surface as possible. Hit it "outward", if you know what i mean). one or two hits should pop it right off. You might need to remove the brake drum to get a better angle, you decide.
- Put the wheel (and brake drum) back on and hand tighten lugs, lower the car
- Loosen the axle nut. you'll need to buy a 32mm socket or rent one somewhere. (Double check the size before buying!)
You'll also need a breaker bar and a length of pipe at least 3 ft long. You're going to slide the pipe onto the breaker bar to add leverage, so the pipe needs to be large enough and made of STEEL. A length of gas pipe should be good. The axle nut is tightened to something like 80 ft/lbs, so you'll definitely need the 3 ft of leverage.
Also try to remember the force required to break the nut, you'll need to apply a similar force to tighten it again. You don't want to gorilla tighten it in the end, but it does need to be fairly tight.
- Lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the brake drum, remove the axle nut and wheel hub
- get to work (remember tip no. 1!!!)
In the infamous words of haynes, "installation is the reverse of removal".
It sounds tedious, and it is...but it makes the job SO much easier.
3. You can get the cheapest brand of brake shoes. rear drum brakes don't do much of anything (maybe 5% of the braking? lol), so you won't see any differences between brands.
4. Don't spend $400 to convert to rear discs. Drum brakes aren't nearly difficult enough to justify that kind of cost. (Plus, this is probably the last time you'll replace them anyway!)
idk what all those extra steps in the middle are, but it was alot easier than that, i just lifted, removed the cover and replaced, it was just a pain getting a the springs back on correct. breaks work perfect
idk what all those extra steps in the middle are, but it was alot easier than that, i just lifted, removed the cover and replaced, it was just a pain getting a the springs back on correct. breaks work perfect
all the steps in the middle are to prevent that pain in reconnecting the springs. It's a lot to do, but it's not a difficult lot and ends up saving a lot of time and frustration.
The whole process of removing the hubs adds about 3 minutes onto each side. it's not difficult, it just takes up a lot of writing space.
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