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Go Back   NissanForums.com :: Nissan Forum > Nissan Models > Sentra, Pulsar, NX, B14 200SX > B14 95-99 chassis
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B14 95-99 chassis 1995-1999 Sentra and 1995-1998 200SX

       
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Old Dec 20th, 2006, 03:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
WiZzO
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car not charging?

ok i've had this problem for months now and it has finnaly really gotton on my nerves cause i cant figure out what the problem is. my car, most of the time doesnt turn on without a jump, like when i turn the key the lights on the dash dim but it doesnt even crank, ocassionally it will click but not turn over. now i have already changed the battery, alternator, terminals, and cleaned the spots where the ground connects to the chassis and i still have a problem with it. when i hook up a voltmeter it reads that the alternator is only putting out 12 volts, same reading with the previous alternator... the only thing left that i could think of is maybe the wires going from the alternator to the battery but i need some more opinions. how hard would it be to change these wires? any help or ideas are appreciated

note: it turns on everytime with a jump... and this is also is on the 1.6L in case anyone was curious
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Old Dec 20th, 2006, 05:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ok, if you changed everything I would start looking for a short somewhere. Like a stereo install that is leaking battery juice. Get one of those clamp-on current meters and see if amperage is draining through the positive battery cable when the car is off.

Also, it possible that the replacement part is defective. It's not common, but it does happen that a burned up alternator gets replaced with a flaky one. Have you gotten it tested at Autozone/Advance for free?
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Old Dec 21st, 2006, 09:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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my friend has a tester for it and it said the alternator is good, i grabbed another alternator and put it on and it says that one is good also... the first alternator that i have on the car is only maybe 8 months old... but when i check the volts coming out of the alternator when the car is running it says 12v when its really supposed to be like 13.5-14 right? i thought maybe a slipping belt was the culprit so i changed the belt and tightned it up with about 1/4 in of deflection but still doing the same thing... bout to donate my car to the junk yard :P
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Old Dec 21st, 2006, 12:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiZzO
my friend has a tester for it and it said the alternator is good, i grabbed another alternator and put it on and it says that one is good also... the first alternator that i have on the car is only maybe 8 months old... but when i check the volts coming out of the alternator when the car is running it says 12v when its really supposed to be like 13.5-14 right? i thought maybe a slipping belt was the culprit so i changed the belt and tightned it up with about 1/4 in of deflection but still doing the same thing... bout to donate my car to the junk yard :P
Did you check the voltage at the Alternator output terminal ? or at the battery terminal?
Its not unusual for these rebuilt alternators to crap out after a short time, they are very cheaply re-built.

How did you decide the Alternator was good? removed from the car on a testing jig ?

If not try taking it in to an Autoparts store and have them test it.
also the lack of volts at the battery terminal can be due to a shorted battery.
Do you have access to a current meter that will check the current into the battery ( cheap inductive type is OK for this.)
If you charge the battery up overnight on a charger and then test the voltage on the battery it should be 13.2 V.
Good Luck....
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Last edited by IanH : Dec 21st, 2006 at 12:07 PM.
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Old Dec 22nd, 2006, 08:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i checked the voltage at both the battery and alternator terminals both times it came out to 12v

my friend has some battery charger/ alternator tester thing, i dont know if i turn on my car i guess it measures the current going into the battery but perhaps a real test couldnt hurt, just dont have the time for it...

and it cant be my battery because i just bought this one like a month ago cause i thought that might have been my problem... i'm starting to think that maybe the wires that go to the alternator have to much resistance now or something and that i need to change them... like i want to change the whole wire that goes to the accessories and battery
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Old Dec 22nd, 2006, 10:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiZzO
i checked the voltage at both the battery and alternator terminals both times it came out to 12v

my friend has some battery charger/ alternator tester thing, i dont know if i turn on my car i guess it measures the current going into the battery but perhaps a real test couldnt hurt, just dont have the time for it...

and it cant be my battery because i just bought this one like a month ago cause i thought that might have been my problem... i'm starting to think that maybe the wires that go to the alternator have to much resistance now or something and that i need to change them... like i want to change the whole wire that goes to the accessories and battery
If the Alternator is charging with a fully charged battery, then the voltage will be 14 - 15 V and this is controlled by the voltage regulator.

Since the battery is part of the test, if the battery is flat, and/or shorted, the alternator will hit its current limit and be at the battery voltage, ie if the battery can pull 50 Amps at 12 V you will measure 12V.

So unless you can say the battery is at 13.2 volts I think your measurements tell us nothing except something is wrong.

Please consider going to Autozone or simular and getting them to do an on car test, its quick and will give you some information. Try and get readings from them. Batt voltage before, during charge, current to battery etc.

Good Luck.
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Old Dec 23rd, 2006, 04:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ok so first things first
Batery volts should be at least:12.46v
you should only have a voltage drop of:.2 volts throgh your wires to your starter and alternator
if both of these are ok, then you need a hydromiter and mesure the individual cell voltave.:should read arounds 1.26 or something(cant remember exactly)
then check your alternator on AC voltage, it should only read about .5 ACV and then on dc and it should read about 13-14.5 DCV.
alternators no matter what brand are cappable of full feilding at around 30 DCV. iff your alternator pruduces over .5ACV it will be shocking your battery and ruining the battery,
if this has happend or if the battery is just bad the cells in the battery may be sulfated, in witch case you need a new one

hope some of this hellped and if not hit me back
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