Greeting, I have a 1996 Sentra GXE 110K miles, thats been sitting outside one year in New England weather and now in my garage for the past year.
Originally the starter went and I replaced it. But because it sat outside for a long time, the brakes, rotors and drums have alot of rust and need to be replaced. In addition the emergeny brake cable is frozen in position. So far I replaced the starter. But the car needs a full tune up, brake job, and it leaks oil. It still has 1/8 of a tank of gas, which I'm sure is bad, but I rather not drain out, because of enviromental and safty issues.
So is it worth doing these repairs or not and is there anything that I'm over looking? I'm not going to be able to afford to replace everything all at once. But at what point if a car has been sitting so long that its not worth repairing?
Greeting, I have a 1996 Sentra GXE 110K miles, thats been sitting outside one year in New England weather and now in my garage for the past year.
Originally the starter went and I replaced it. But because it sat outside for a long time, the brakes, rotors and drums have alot of rust and need to be replaced. In addition the emergeny brake cable is frozen in position. So far I replaced the starter. But the car needs a full tune up, brake job, and it leaks oil. It still has 1/8 of a tank of gas, which I'm sure is bad, but I rather not drain out, because of enviromental and safty issues.
So is it worth doing these repairs or not and is there anything that I'm over looking? I'm not going to be able to afford to replace everything all at once. But at what point if a car has been sitting so long that its not worth repairing?
Thanks
Frank
The rust on the brakes, if only on the rotors, will come off when you drive the car and apply the brakes. As for the gas, look into the engine bay on the drivers side and you'll see a fuel filter that looks like a little canister. Unhook the line from the top of it and buy about 4 feet of 5/16 fuel line from Advanced auto. Attach the line to the top of the fuel filter and run it into an oil drain bucket. From there, put the car into the 'on' position and run the car out of gas. Then put about a gallon of 93 octane in and let the car run (after reapplying fuel line to origional position). Im guessing the car is a manual...park with the car in gear to aviod using the e-brake. It is probably leakin oil from the front main seal, like most B14s. Look to see where the oil is coming from and repost back.
Cost for repair: $20
Last edited by ilikespeeding : Dec 8th, 2006 at 07:15 PM.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to have to change out the rear rotors and brakes, they froze into position and I had to wack them with a hammer thus ruining them.
So in order to remove the old gas I dissconect the fule line from the top of the filter and turn the car on until I hear the fuel pump engange and that will drain out the tank? can I attatch the line on the other side of the fule filter or not? Its a auto tranny btw. I never replaced an oil seal, and I know its a common problem on the Sentra, how envolved it is and what special tools will I need if any?
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to have to change out the rear rotors and brakes, they froze into position and I had to wack them with a hammer thus ruining them.
So in order to remove the old gas I dissconect the fule line from the top of the filter and turn the car on until I hear the fuel pump engange and that will drain out the tank? can I attatch the line on the other side of the fule filter or not? Its a auto tranny btw. I never replaced an oil seal, and I know its a common problem on the Sentra, how envolved it is and what special tools will I need if any?
Thanks
Frank
If you have to deal with replacing rear brakes, I'd go ahead and throw on discs. They're alot easier to maintain and service. Nissan makes rear disc brakes in the form of a sentra SE-R to my understanding. You're probably going to have to do some searching about that, I dont know much about the swap.
No. If you just simply disconnect the fuel pump line and put the car in the on position, you'll spray fuel everywhere. I've created a picture to demostrate the process. I appologize about the sloppiness, I did it with a touch pad.
The oil seal is not that hard. You need a needle-nose plier, 10mm socket and wrench, 12 mm socket and wrench, impact gun, and a impact socket set.
If you have to deal with replacing rear brakes, I'd go ahead and throw on discs. They're alot easier to maintain and service. Nissan makes rear disc brakes in the form of a sentra SE-R to my understanding. You're probably going to have to do some searching about that, I dont know much about the swap.
No. If you just simply disconnect the fuel pump line and put the car in the on position, you'll spray fuel everywhere. I've created a picture to demostrate the process. I appologize about the sloppiness, I did it with a touch pad.
The oil seal is not that hard. You need a needle-nose plier, 10mm socket and wrench, 12 mm socket and wrench, impact gun, and a impact socket set.
Check tha tout for more details on the front main.
Okay so th eonly reason to disconnect the fule line from the top of the fule filter, or the one going to the fule rail is because you can get the extra slack needed to dump it into a container. I got that thanks.
On brake job. I was unaware that you can buy a disc bake kit for the rear drums and rotors. I'll look into that more, because rotors suck, I wounder if the same can be done with the Altima as well, I have a 96 GXE and it needs a rear brake job some time this spring.
On the oil leak thanks for the link, That will probably be the last thing I do.
Okay so th eonly reason to disconnect the fule line from the top of the fule filter, or the one going to the fule rail is because you can get the extra slack needed to dump it into a container. I got that thanks.
On brake job. I was unaware that you can buy a disc bake kit for the rear drums and rotors. I'll look into that more, because rotors suck, I wounder if the same can be done with the Altima as well, I have a 96 GXE and it needs a rear brake job some time this spring.
On the oil leak thanks for the link, That will probably be the last thing I do.
Im no brake expert, but with the exclusion of the brake section, that sounds perfect. I couldnt tell you ass from road cone on swapping shit. The most I've done is replace calipers, turn rotors and drums, and replace pads and shoes. I hate drum brakes. There's only two good thing about them, they last forever and they're self contained, so no dust on your rims.
Remember that the fuel pump only turns on for about 5 seconds to prime the system then shuts off until the engine starts. Also, Sentra drums will not slide off by themselves even if they are new. The press fit onto the hub, and you will need to make and install jack screws to push them off the hub. There are 2 threaded holes in the drum that are made specifically for this purpose.
__________________
1998 Nissan Frontier XE/2wd/5spd 1 owner, 264k miles
1985 Olds Cutlass, 350 Chevy, owned for 14 years
WANTED: 1968-1973 Datsun 510 or 1991-1994 Sentra SE-R http://www.myspace.com/junkyardengineer
Remember that the fuel pump only turns on for about 5 seconds to prime the system then shuts off until the engine starts. Also, Sentra drums will not slide off by themselves even if they are new. The press fit onto the hub, and you will need to make and install jack screws to push them off the hub. There are 2 threaded holes in the drum that are made specifically for this purpose.
Oh yea, forgot about that. I know in DSMs, the fuel pump is below the rear seat. You might be able to remove the rear seat in sentras and hook up a 12v power source and a ground and get the pump to work until fuel runs out.
Thanks for all the advice, my plan is the following in January:
Replace the front brakes and rotors
Replace the rear drums and pad, I'm going to skip the conversion.
Skip dumping the old gas because its about 1/8 of a tank. So I'll add some 93 octane and injector cleaner.
Tune up the car: plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter, air filter, oil and rotate the tires.
Look at fixing the oil leak, which is the last thing to do.
Thanks for all the advice, my plan is the following in January:
Replace the front brakes and rotors
Replace the rear drums and pad, I'm going to skip the conversion.
Skip dumping the old gas because its about 1/8 of a tank. So I'll add some 93 octane and injector cleaner.
Tune up the car: plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter, air filter, oil and rotate the tires.
Look at fixing the oil leak, which is the last thing to do.
My powers of prognostication see a front crankshaft oil seal in your future. It's an easy repair, and necessary to avoid more costly repairs in the future. The part is about $10 and requires you to pull the crank pulley and all the belts. Failure to do so will kill: the alternator, A/C clutch, belts, hoses, and harmonic balancer/crank pulley assembly. It takes about an hour or two to do it and the only special tool you'll need is a pulley puller. Oh, and the fuel pump is under the back seat. To access it, simply pull the two white tabs on the opposite corners of the seat and pull the seat up and out. It's under a black sheetmetal cover.
__________________
1998 Nissan Frontier XE/2wd/5spd 1 owner, 264k miles
1985 Olds Cutlass, 350 Chevy, owned for 14 years
WANTED: 1968-1973 Datsun 510 or 1991-1994 Sentra SE-R http://www.myspace.com/junkyardengineer
So on top of replacing the oil seal on the timing chain cover, I should all so replace the front crank shaft oil seal as well. Can you please write out a procedure to do this for me others in future, or point me a direction
I found this in the GA16DE subforum. I'm probably going to end up having to do this myself also. I have a small oil leak on the passenger side of the engine bay, so this is the most likely suspect.
usually small oil leaks are the oil pan gasket. When my crank seal let go, I lost about 2 quarts of oil per week. I dont know about the seal destroying anything tho. It's just a bitch to keep putting oil in your car. Its more expensive not to fix it.
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