Yeah, WD-40 should work. It is probably just old and needs lubing. you just have to spray it in the right place (where the pedal pivits off of).
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Minor Modifications To My Car: Razo Shift Knob, Eibach Sportline Springs, KYB AGX Shocks, SS AutoChrome Header, Custom Cat-back, Injen CAI, B&M Short Shifter -- More to come soon!
It'll work as long as it's not the cable making that noise. If you lube the pivot and can still feel the creaking in the pedal then the cable is on the way out.
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Get plastic surgery, there ain't no maybe. Your ugly face still ends up on your baby.
If it is the cable, get the nissan oem not an off brand. Many people report issues with cable life using anything except the actual nissan part. Just an fyi.
no offence, because i love nissan and there rediculesly outragusly priced parts, but a cable is a cable, and the short life is more than likly a bad instal on the owners part
__________________ NEW!!1987 300ZX 200 sx auto cross beast--
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no offence, because i love nissan and there rediculesly outragusly priced parts, but a cable is a cable, and the short life is more than likly a bad instal on the owners part
Hehe, ok. I guess those 500 hp guys on sr20forums don't know how to install a clutch cable. But do what you want.
I eventually had to replace my cable to get of rid of the squeak noise as well. Tried spraying all kinds of crap on the pedal connections itself, but the cable was actually making the most noise.
I had a brand new cable installed and lubed all the joints. I still had the sqeaking noise. Clutch was due for a change and the mechanic recommended to do clutch change for $350. The mechanic said this is a known problem with these cars once the throwout bearing lube has worned out. Now my clutch pedal feel soft as butter and no more sqeaking noise.
this is a little off subject, but pertaining to the T.O. bearing, have any of you (who do your own clutch) had a problem where the TOB is sliding halfway off of the race in order to disengage the clutch, and also this may be related, has anyone had to drill new holes in the mounting plate for the clutch cable in order to get all the slack out of the cable, so it functions properly??
this is a little off subject, but pertaining to the T.O. bearing, have any of you (who do your own clutch) had a problem where the TOB is sliding halfway off of the race in order to disengage the clutch, and also this may be related, has anyone had to drill new holes in the mounting plate for the clutch cable in order to get all the slack out of the cable, so it functions properly??
I just replaced my clutch and found the OEM cable had streched about 1/4 of an inch in 90,000 miles. Not bad really.
Have read of others cutting and re-welding the support arm to reduce the slack. Seems overkill to me.
If you are having problem with the TO bearing and the arm position are you sure the pressure plate is Ok ?
Ya, actually everything was working fine, but I needed to replace my clutch (slipping), and I didn't have to much $ at the time, so I got a kit they have from autozone or maybe kragen (I dont' remember), but it came w/a new flywheel as well. After installing the clutch (not the first time I have done one, but it was the first time for me in this car), I couldn't get the clutch to engage and I had the adjustment screw turned up all the way, so I decided to drill new holes 1" further from the others. Shortly thereafter I started having big problems. I got a new cable thinking that was the prob, but it wasn't - found out I had broke the fork. Got a new fork and TOB, and this time I decided to check to see if the new and old flywheel were the same thickness, as well as both pressure plates. Still the same problems, I ended up throwing out one of the thrust bearings in the crankshaft / block, there was metal chunks everywhere (my motor was shot) so I got a new motor figuring that the problems would cease, but they're still there (as far as the clutch cable adjustment) oh ya I got a new clutch kit w/ the new motor (some stg. II one off ebay), and I still have the same problems, my pedal is really hard to push in somedays and easy on others, then it started sticking to the floor all the time, making it impossible to drive in the city, so I fabbed up a little pull spring clutch assist, that pulls the actual clutch arm towards the front of the car. This seems to help out w/ the sticking, but I am kinda worried I'm eventually gonna mess up my new motor.
Thanks for any suggestions
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